tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-27128583737229480652024-02-18T20:35:30.965-08:00zupjuanAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-88688546248726897852015-03-29T20:58:00.000-07:002015-03-29T20:58:02.646-07:00CPA GRIP list and get a quick dollar<div style="text-align: center;">
CPA GRIP list and get a quick dollar</div>
<br />
In
this post I will share how to handful and get dollars from the CPA
Grip, since recently also many mastah mastah are uploaded tutorials grip
on ads cpa-id.<br />
<br />
For those who do not understand whether cpa grip it?<br />
GRIP
CPA is one of the great websites that will pay each member of each lead
that they produce, whether it leads? leads can we interpret as well as
surveys. So cpa grip will pay us in every survey that we get from
others.<br />
<br />
Well, how do I get this survey? also be
explained on its website at cpagrip there are several tools and
techniques to get a survey or lead earlier, including by:<br />
<ul>
<li>Content Locker (locked content, has recently conducted a survey of visitors to open content)</li>
<li>URL / File Locker (url or file locking, has recently conducted a survey of visitors to open URL or file)</li>
<li>Video Locker (video lock, has recently conducted a survey of visitors to open video)</li>
<li>Referral</li>
<li>etc.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbHshHwD1mXxW19lJ91dTxxdrHBhafUc4zqtabZCSBjuRRO3Hz8wi1Qneuwf-wjJbraKCWouBcfcQjUfixH1OEOWXHF93aPcL-KR8FCpatsP-dFKXwSRZCP4P45anBSSOz8ppafZArdhWm/s1600/How+to+Capture+Dollar+of+CPA+Grip+100%25+Success.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="How to Capture Dollar of CPA Grip 100% Success" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbHshHwD1mXxW19lJ91dTxxdrHBhafUc4zqtabZCSBjuRRO3Hz8wi1Qneuwf-wjJbraKCWouBcfcQjUfixH1OEOWXHF93aPcL-KR8FCpatsP-dFKXwSRZCP4P45anBSSOz8ppafZArdhWm/s1600/How+to+Capture+Dollar+of+CPA+Grip+100%25+Success.jpg" height="320" title="How to Capture Dollar of CPA Grip 100% Success" width="166" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
How to Capture Dollar of CPA Grip 100% Success<br />
The reason why choose cpa grip:<br />
<br />
1. CPAGRIP is one CPA network that good reputation,<br />
2. Earnings per LEAD / The survey sizable<br />
3. Many offer or advertisers<br />
4. Proven continue to pay each member<br />
5. Payment can be on schedule.<br />
<br />
Easy tricks like this to get dollars from cpa this grip.<br />
<ul>
<li>You must have a website / blog</li>
<li>Next create or contains files that are needed people</li>
<li>Key content or files earlier with menetization tools cpa grip.</li>
<li>If the keywords in the website you can hang out at page one google it will be a lot of leads you get.</li>
<li>In conclusion increasingly crowded web / blog you have monetiz with this grip cpa then your income will be BIG</li>
</ul>
Immediately register yourself in <b><a href="https://www.cpagrip.com/admin/panels_register.php?ref=38024" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">WWW.CPAGRIP.COM</a></b><br />
<br />
There are few ways to increase traffic to you :<br />
<ol>
<li>Increase your website or blog seo</li>
<li>With spread the link on youtube</li>
<li>Utilizing social media such as facebook, twitter, etc.</li>
<li>Uploading in forums abroad.</li>
<li>etc.</li>
</ol>
In 2015 she seh NO PICTURE IS a hoax, yes it is true, therefore we show the income of Indonesian people to you.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTejIlWNePdL_NRL0jBEQf6HNxHk9VW9QXLiFs78sMtb58IvDvXhC6hMzC9zt339UbA0uPFgYShZDUNof7sjOCWNuS44OIXeJeHiaGE_c5wvbClkTJ4WswMSEpWycYSk6ybIlHc0dgQcFd/s1600/How+to+Capture+Dollar+of+CPA+Grip+100%25+Success+1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTejIlWNePdL_NRL0jBEQf6HNxHk9VW9QXLiFs78sMtb58IvDvXhC6hMzC9zt339UbA0uPFgYShZDUNof7sjOCWNuS44OIXeJeHiaGE_c5wvbClkTJ4WswMSEpWycYSk6ybIlHc0dgQcFd/s1600/How+to+Capture+Dollar+of+CPA+Grip+100%25+Success+1.jpg" height="110" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZt1DkEg1T4R6LNa6f823gnV-IVtk5zK12KrmEqdOh1rJ6QPLM3WO90VRvL4KarJeAyWeQbWB4sah1hXPIqZO0LCVwDVInS7GfhUVjr8jMJ5M_R4_IkA_CXlkKj9L-eGjRpJ36JmhO-9-n/s1600/How+to+Capture+Dollar+of+CPA+Grip+100%25+Success+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZt1DkEg1T4R6LNa6f823gnV-IVtk5zK12KrmEqdOh1rJ6QPLM3WO90VRvL4KarJeAyWeQbWB4sah1hXPIqZO0LCVwDVInS7GfhUVjr8jMJ5M_R4_IkA_CXlkKj9L-eGjRpJ36JmhO-9-n/s1600/How+to+Capture+Dollar+of+CPA+Grip+100%25+Success+2.jpg" height="123" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVDBmCVJsMe9xHO4VeMgNXQBOKyRZth5gXS8-fAy_BO-6TwQIUfZ4R7BnMvweWU0vK0Gb4QWER6toyReePTsx_X0aZjayA-fJd5ehc6SZC4wvgocne2ZlPskq7PbTCEZ-BXkvTHYecvwAb/s1600/How+to+Capture+Dollar+of+CPA+Grip+100%25+Success.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVDBmCVJsMe9xHO4VeMgNXQBOKyRZth5gXS8-fAy_BO-6TwQIUfZ4R7BnMvweWU0vK0Gb4QWER6toyReePTsx_X0aZjayA-fJd5ehc6SZC4wvgocne2ZlPskq7PbTCEZ-BXkvTHYecvwAb/s1600/How+to+Capture+Dollar+of+CPA+Grip+100%25+Success.jpg" height="103" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
opportunity for you immediately register yourself in <b><a href="https://www.cpagrip.com/admin/panels_register.php?ref=38024" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">WW.CPAGRIP.COM</a></b><br />
<br />
Hopefully
a little share this knowledge gives you a sense of motivation and
spirit in reap dollars on the internet, not just from google andsense,
but of cpa grip ready in suction, Thank <a href="http://chiliczywanilia.blogspot.com/2015/03/how-to-capture-dollar-of-cpa-grip-100.html" target="_blank">how can the dollar from cpagrip</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-24098481029330002532015-01-11T17:34:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.526-08:00Butterick 4192 - Can This Jacket Be Saved?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">While I was dithering on my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/11/a-palette-cleanser-simplicity-1541.html" target="_blank">never-started coat project</a>, and I realized my chosen wool was teal, I was on a quest for pink wool. As you recall, I ended up just buying a pink coat from Boden, but before my obsessive search was over, I finally found a candy-pink wool online offered as a single cut piece of eight yards. For like 50-some-odd dollars. </span><span style="font-size: large;">(I can't remember from where, and my lack of memory only protects the guilty.)</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;">I couldn't pass up such a great deal because you would be surprised how hard it is to find pink wool. Really.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Once I received it in the mail though, I discovered it wasn't thick enough for a winter coat. So I bought the Boden coat, and my back up plan was to use vintage Butterick 4192 and make a pink suit:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VHqrDz8j1NJy635Wx0PRWt78j3RkrIvXn9F19LN0qAYxIGvhvp0eTNh_DDCXiG_XIkpkL0QHCQNzQECiVOlkHpbV4JtMIvGzhYSktC7KTrVx-JI0t3IHo0dQUfemC4rjoocZ8_6vg3Kx/s1600/IMG_5844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7VHqrDz8j1NJy635Wx0PRWt78j3RkrIvXn9F19LN0qAYxIGvhvp0eTNh_DDCXiG_XIkpkL0QHCQNzQECiVOlkHpbV4JtMIvGzhYSktC7KTrVx-JI0t3IHo0dQUfemC4rjoocZ8_6vg3Kx/s1600/IMG_5844.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Because my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Butterick%202178" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren suit</a> was such a pleasure to sew last year, I decided I would make the short jacket and skirt from the pink wool, which would be a welcome addition to my wardrobe since I have jettisoned everything black because it depresses me. I also thought, in the back of my mind, that a pink wool suit would be lovely for Easter, since I spent way too many Easters being cold in flimsy spring dresses.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">There's no copyright date on this pattern, but I think it is mid-sixties - later than Butterick 2178 I used for my Tippi Hedren suit:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFc_JgfdQIf-fTux3MLp7-fnFkjknTXE6WonCaGz0qeWWbvwnaLwmcj_PTuxbrUbhbU8hWa66tYzIaq-w6kRcraeAR3x4nbQbU7GK4YJMWAxaAFJ-0Q_gZG1tJ_Lj0QZP_vk6UO7x86Rt9/s1600/IMG_5243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFc_JgfdQIf-fTux3MLp7-fnFkjknTXE6WonCaGz0qeWWbvwnaLwmcj_PTuxbrUbhbU8hWa66tYzIaq-w6kRcraeAR3x4nbQbU7GK4YJMWAxaAFJ-0Q_gZG1tJ_Lj0QZP_vk6UO7x86Rt9/s1600/IMG_5243.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">You can see that Butterick 2178 still has the pill-hat, Jackie Kennedy influence (I think is 1962 or 1963), while Butterick 4192 has more of the mid-sixties style before skirts got way shorter and hair way longer. I'd put it at 1965 or 1966.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The pink wool arrived with dusty selveges, but I didn't sweat it. Since I had eight yards, last weekend I cut off a few yards and steamed it with my iron in preparation for cutting out. Only then did I notice that there were frequent flaws in the wool, but I decided I could cut around them - the pinkness of this wool was just too good to pass up.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I used my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/tippi-hedren-suit-major-shortcut.html" target="_blank">Steam-A-Seam method of underlining</a> the body of the jacket with white muslin:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYLF8bYywf4Q8paOsJp0i-vg3rNn7CyxzyA-yE92lNRj5VDxEXYui7CjRHRBdelftbsmuiDBkksQ-h4xyujHwFVAXXYpHWLAms6ei1fmlZWPSau22MzrE2YeIjjMTmAIhLKtKiQKyhHjA/s1600/IMG_5891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYLF8bYywf4Q8paOsJp0i-vg3rNn7CyxzyA-yE92lNRj5VDxEXYui7CjRHRBdelftbsmuiDBkksQ-h4xyujHwFVAXXYpHWLAms6ei1fmlZWPSau22MzrE2YeIjjMTmAIhLKtKiQKyhHjA/s1600/IMG_5891.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Then I put together the jacket shell and attached the collar. Of course, only after I had finished for the day did I notice that I missed a flaw and now it is near my front left side seam:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jWEAz1N2QzScl6qniFkejYg-iEmPUX_T4_dnBh-ZQickr8zCG-oJw2lcpf1WDfgjxFx7CCSbzkirCzVx9S5BjN2HpDwzwSEb9FFzO7VanTCiKmpor9ASd7HdwZHwjAHUNViYiX7VJRxg/s1600/IMG_5869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jWEAz1N2QzScl6qniFkejYg-iEmPUX_T4_dnBh-ZQickr8zCG-oJw2lcpf1WDfgjxFx7CCSbzkirCzVx9S5BjN2HpDwzwSEb9FFzO7VanTCiKmpor9ASd7HdwZHwjAHUNViYiX7VJRxg/s1600/IMG_5869.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHST-JB_avI6xxVFqeZCke0b__J-G2rw2olRx7UpikfpLfIjDWA1nwxkquiKG3S93EESEZretJ-mLAc_zQ6c_b8gIpL0EufwiY32BVeimac-SYeQ3NoZf-S13eGMrvxL5t7aVJZK6s61l/s1600/IMG_5874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFHST-JB_avI6xxVFqeZCke0b__J-G2rw2olRx7UpikfpLfIjDWA1nwxkquiKG3S93EESEZretJ-mLAc_zQ6c_b8gIpL0EufwiY32BVeimac-SYeQ3NoZf-S13eGMrvxL5t7aVJZK6s61l/s1600/IMG_5874.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I decided no one would notice and proceeded forward. This Saturday, attaching the sleeves was my mission, and I wanted the three-quarter sleeves with cuffs like I made on my Tippi Hedren suit, rather than the full length the pattern contains. I got them cut out and one attached when a full scale MS attack hit me Saturday afternoon, and all sewing operations (as well as everything else) ceased. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Sunday was no better; I awoke with a migraine. Once the heavy duty medication finally kicked in, I was determined to get the second sleeve set in. So you know what happened: only once both sleeves were sewn in, trimmed, overstitched, and pressed did I notice that I put the sleeves in with the wrong sides facing out. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35v349Exol0qgSK0cU2TmtgegAW6gY0mq-cip8PZ-iEBrs8TZNyrt6DKccIhZbuxnpWJQW-8q4mxkabzQd7trpc5Qv1gJLH-P6K3JGVFieK0rsfe_XQ-RKYZgInGjx7MaVAgUmrftye9y/s1600/IMG_5892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35v349Exol0qgSK0cU2TmtgegAW6gY0mq-cip8PZ-iEBrs8TZNyrt6DKccIhZbuxnpWJQW-8q4mxkabzQd7trpc5Qv1gJLH-P6K3JGVFieK0rsfe_XQ-RKYZgInGjx7MaVAgUmrftye9y/s1600/IMG_5892.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">This was irreversible, of course, so I took a hard look to see if I could live with it. Given that I hadn't noticed while sewing, I doubt if anyone else will notice when I wear it. The sole question is whether I can live with it:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqsPSEyza0a11MbzsCEcm_DVlNDIvf9Axq0DQY1o3x6JZbPTwZQZ9JQf3LaarE_hznNp7HL2RNNdA_ZayapuP7Me_JIujYvmoZCy1KpuTUzYyKYA4G-whCP51GnPjMqIRxto0aNm5c6DbI/s1600/IMG_5883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqsPSEyza0a11MbzsCEcm_DVlNDIvf9Axq0DQY1o3x6JZbPTwZQZ9JQf3LaarE_hznNp7HL2RNNdA_ZayapuP7Me_JIujYvmoZCy1KpuTUzYyKYA4G-whCP51GnPjMqIRxto0aNm5c6DbI/s1600/IMG_5883.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I thought I could. But then I started working on the pockets which I want to add similar to the Tippi Hedren suit, and I pulled out the Tippi Hedren jacket to see how far I placed them from the edges of the jacket, and that's when all my denial fell away: the Tippi Hedren jacket is just so wonderful to touch, to wear, and look at. I had to admit the pink jacket has <i>none of those things.</i></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">This wool is cheap, and that's no fun. I love the color but that is about it. It wrinkles horribly. And I'm not really happy with the collar:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivM-LwgryfnkiONxKBJrKqC34PwiGjBvWPlztaLeeuUaW9sJZCFHk5nuHeGmk8Hji-7eXJzaKPl283Va-M2Z2mXp6wUQVXlrEiYBOdOHqx0u9BQmtqir-4hxG2p31mO9B6AZm5asT_7lnN/s1600/IMG_5873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivM-LwgryfnkiONxKBJrKqC34PwiGjBvWPlztaLeeuUaW9sJZCFHk5nuHeGmk8Hji-7eXJzaKPl283Va-M2Z2mXp6wUQVXlrEiYBOdOHqx0u9BQmtqir-4hxG2p31mO9B6AZm5asT_7lnN/s1600/IMG_5873.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">There's the possibility that some topstitching around the collar could wrestle it into submission, but I'm not sure. Did I mention the wrinkling? This is a itchy wool that sticks to everything. And everything to it.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLhbapJXArqEXlSh1cRWQ804qbdvS7Zug1qDtTzENnkQruxjH3zZsPouk_JAeEfSL11sgl5z8_ryQ2adTtNwvYqeqV1udSZ2mX4vBrxksW5VJy_XJbO2bjb4b8qVHKOWIa6kdX76Ey-Fcy/s1600/IMG_5888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLhbapJXArqEXlSh1cRWQ804qbdvS7Zug1qDtTzENnkQruxjH3zZsPouk_JAeEfSL11sgl5z8_ryQ2adTtNwvYqeqV1udSZ2mX4vBrxksW5VJy_XJbO2bjb4b8qVHKOWIa6kdX76Ey-Fcy/s1600/IMG_5888.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">And the fit is more boxy than that of Butterick 2178, so the fit isn't as flattering. I hate to abandon it because of the two weekends I spent on it, but on the other hand, it makes no sense to spend even more time on a garment I won't wear. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I've decided not to decide. Rather than trash this jacket completely, I'm putting it aside and see if time changes my perspective. I guess it's possible that in two months I might think, "This isn't so bad - I can make it work!" Or I might say, "What was I thinking???" I don't normally do UFOs - I like to finish each project before starting another one - but I think this is one I should punt on and figure it out on down the road. On to the next project!</span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-75383507696567088312015-01-04T14:13:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.565-08:00The Year That Was (2014) and the Year That Will Be (2015)<span style="font-size: large;">I've been enjoying everyone's end of the year posts - I find the retrospectives fascinating and educational. I think you have to look back in order to figure out where you want to go in the future, so with that in mind, here's mine:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I bought more clothes in 2015 than any time since I began sewing in 2002. I think turning 50 was the catalyst - on the one hand, dressing too young only emphasizes your age, ("mutton dressed a lamb") and on the other hand, now is the time to experiment before true old age sets in. : ) All my clothes purchases led me to believe I really hadn't sewn that much in 2014, but a review of my blog tells a different story. I sewed much more than I thought! Here are the highlights:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I began the year with a favorite, my<a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-tale-of-yellow-skirt-mccalls-3341.html" target="_blank"> yellow skirt, McCalls 3341</a>:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghx2hEGnrk95rgdSgjMCoHOZ7TSs-w2D9SBMl2TuhkXIJFnlCRXBIbmodvJ8u7v6x1eS785a3U6ELq5DxG20WFZbmtd01boVJbQ9uSZFR8SV2c2IWu053rt-p5Qbtcb6XMFO7TAx71ITd6/s1600/IMG_5254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghx2hEGnrk95rgdSgjMCoHOZ7TSs-w2D9SBMl2TuhkXIJFnlCRXBIbmodvJ8u7v6x1eS785a3U6ELq5DxG20WFZbmtd01boVJbQ9uSZFR8SV2c2IWu053rt-p5Qbtcb6XMFO7TAx71ITd6/s1600/IMG_5254.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And I liked it so much, I ended the year with another one from the same yellow wool from Mood, made with <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/11/a-palette-cleanser-simplicity-1541.html" target="_blank">Simplicity 1541</a>: </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOTviDru4yWTp-6ordHyejaPqRSvjeu7htbutHDMgql0blUkJ-lm6FxcZv8qk6I-ThxuAO2TWEi7QX8myhbuTTtcj2BeoDQHHC91tXLxZLyE2y6O9M-frGgO_TrwWE3g9tLXCzDwjS5PMj/s1600/IMG_5813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOTviDru4yWTp-6ordHyejaPqRSvjeu7htbutHDMgql0blUkJ-lm6FxcZv8qk6I-ThxuAO2TWEi7QX8myhbuTTtcj2BeoDQHHC91tXLxZLyE2y6O9M-frGgO_TrwWE3g9tLXCzDwjS5PMj/s1600/IMG_5813.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Next up, I made the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Tippi%20Hedren%20suit" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren</a> suit, which really was a labor of love:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjg5m8TE_YJJ6wc8zbKn5nZbsRuM5dD1DlYuHrb18YxwvCGWXRIXzjQwZ2CrvRLJl0witYdn6VvlR34474V3b6ydztDQqxiftYTQZ-J2v8g5beyyoPSktNE-k1OOmB8xPcWKkx5vf7Gyh/s1600/IMG_5312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjg5m8TE_YJJ6wc8zbKn5nZbsRuM5dD1DlYuHrb18YxwvCGWXRIXzjQwZ2CrvRLJl0witYdn6VvlR34474V3b6ydztDQqxiftYTQZ-J2v8g5beyyoPSktNE-k1OOmB8xPcWKkx5vf7Gyh/s1600/IMG_5312.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I wear the jacket all the time - particularly with jeans and the silk charmeuse lining never fails to thrill me.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I also made <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/new-look-6000-dress.html" target="_blank">this dress</a> to go with the jacket, but it was an utter failure due to the lightweight fabric/wrinkling and I only wore it the once:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtS2Te8SaKEgXpHov7Zb9r1gsy5diHlmmrXG_E0qPPsNmVeIoypOJ8CwSruvvkjJOysl-HXiOXwpDN9JKzKa9DhsdOrhzXg4Y-hQiYVfZ3due7R8beqpJ3mTUD3IRapNpWjf1Ysb7M-FKN/s1600/IMG_5353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtS2Te8SaKEgXpHov7Zb9r1gsy5diHlmmrXG_E0qPPsNmVeIoypOJ8CwSruvvkjJOysl-HXiOXwpDN9JKzKa9DhsdOrhzXg4Y-hQiYVfZ3due7R8beqpJ3mTUD3IRapNpWjf1Ysb7M-FKN/s1600/IMG_5353.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">It has been banished from the house. So has this <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/folkwear-victoria-vest-sewing-room.html" target="_blank">ill fated vest</a> which Vicki ordered me to never wear again:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-UVPom9QSk3xyFyUiCr1rA0iHx4l4ad_emISrDYGA-7aE8mQ-j7Zauz_mSRMb8z-TRRt_XO-ri4hKN8huqiWViMfIXNSlfysyniZIUKtBWilFb_ofa-MmrJ46SIiKTSOKIHPx4fg98Cz-/s1600/IMG_5332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-UVPom9QSk3xyFyUiCr1rA0iHx4l4ad_emISrDYGA-7aE8mQ-j7Zauz_mSRMb8z-TRRt_XO-ri4hKN8huqiWViMfIXNSlfysyniZIUKtBWilFb_ofa-MmrJ46SIiKTSOKIHPx4fg98Cz-/s1600/IMG_5332.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I haven't given up on the vest idea, mind, I just need a different pattern, so look for more of this in 2015.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">A rousing success was the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/butterick%205895" target="_blank">Gertie pants, Butterick 5895</a>, in which I went to Gertie's sewing retreat in April to tweak the fit. I made a lot of these and love them:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEignNKQjtyIuItqm_xJdirXnWsAE0IZuDG1tbAD-TwLQlS9H-R81o0HlFPO_EeRDzYvzSW7vTF6RtERKgI1ygVUcfY-pNLtx-USsJELbgbA8dUihbwQWR6T0APk4iZN0CQVd9NBoxyqOCef/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEignNKQjtyIuItqm_xJdirXnWsAE0IZuDG1tbAD-TwLQlS9H-R81o0HlFPO_EeRDzYvzSW7vTF6RtERKgI1ygVUcfY-pNLtx-USsJELbgbA8dUihbwQWR6T0APk4iZN0CQVd9NBoxyqOCef/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9AwrEcw3pwiQnVDeBa-FMMhOAKdTes0NAtpDoBTOoNHH5ax66kN5iSZWb__sefrcsMeXho6__GkDg055CnHwZ1nUA96vmQ5sh7lU-krgecuyLf4F-i0R_rSql2Ob02YxuC9oYCkDDL9LK/s1600/photo+(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9AwrEcw3pwiQnVDeBa-FMMhOAKdTes0NAtpDoBTOoNHH5ax66kN5iSZWb__sefrcsMeXho6__GkDg055CnHwZ1nUA96vmQ5sh7lU-krgecuyLf4F-i0R_rSql2Ob02YxuC9oYCkDDL9LK/s1600/photo+(4).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFo7iBJVTOIEalSkg-0lHENKfOP5Hm7Ryljs94gZxUl-206yYgV08vOPZvZt4isjDksEK4yh4eOHjryUO30xuop56qldlxEpjteIVKW43jvowLpdDXAWabuwx6KlEgDf1RvkKjPiee9EFq/s1600/photo+(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFo7iBJVTOIEalSkg-0lHENKfOP5Hm7Ryljs94gZxUl-206yYgV08vOPZvZt4isjDksEK4yh4eOHjryUO30xuop56qldlxEpjteIVKW43jvowLpdDXAWabuwx6KlEgDf1RvkKjPiee9EFq/s1600/photo+(1).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVkTCbZnevd3UiiTGSm3g7o4gD04frAMECrEvFw6Ag_KuBQ9M-jOAFLCiHeQCfGNcvmHXO_OEgOoeH0O5ZO7H3L5QhEq6DT2BeqYcyoGVagI4iYGGNRqOjtXEHYyLWqzVdyblJxDJ5EBzu/s1600/IMG_5402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVkTCbZnevd3UiiTGSm3g7o4gD04frAMECrEvFw6Ag_KuBQ9M-jOAFLCiHeQCfGNcvmHXO_OEgOoeH0O5ZO7H3L5QhEq6DT2BeqYcyoGVagI4iYGGNRqOjtXEHYyLWqzVdyblJxDJ5EBzu/s1600/IMG_5402.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Look for more of these in 2015 as the spring approaches!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I became obsessed with linen this spring/summer and had no less than three makes. The <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/04/gabriola-skirt.html" target="_blank">Gabriola skirt</a>:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWmf3Wen7zDBO3NAEUjeGO5BSsoA85J_trGlA6pY9nwKeUKW9kMCguJDKY6VKAszZo46yvRJkUmOkSFwyeZBhpa9BMXIshsTA88GRNNRx8yZTBKaskcUN1JMxDKkE-mNv_nRInaFZsXAxs/s1600/IMG_5379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWmf3Wen7zDBO3NAEUjeGO5BSsoA85J_trGlA6pY9nwKeUKW9kMCguJDKY6VKAszZo46yvRJkUmOkSFwyeZBhpa9BMXIshsTA88GRNNRx8yZTBKaskcUN1JMxDKkE-mNv_nRInaFZsXAxs/s1600/IMG_5379.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/05/mccalls-6696-take-2.html" target="_blank">McCalls 6696 shirtdress</a>:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAjO9Mi-EX4MQn1rLV9mqHt2cLHxDJ83OnoDk_78NDlCx_c8aNuDKs1LooTjTvVroNSc7isSl1MldwiVEFX9AgK1usCxuB1zMRvycmLLlYuzHcUi8DjjO8onN2McGFrepb2R4ZvWnHFnt4/s1600/IMG_5394+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAjO9Mi-EX4MQn1rLV9mqHt2cLHxDJ83OnoDk_78NDlCx_c8aNuDKs1LooTjTvVroNSc7isSl1MldwiVEFX9AgK1usCxuB1zMRvycmLLlYuzHcUi8DjjO8onN2McGFrepb2R4ZvWnHFnt4/s1600/IMG_5394+(2).JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">And <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/06/mccalls-6891-grinder-dress.html" target="_blank">the Grinder dress</a>:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8iVDOlq6If2Ib7XhQ__yv4YxiIa96wRCcMXK907u4XD7v-laj7vI7ffn2qTnwq2qsUPcbLf8DUN1TrjXNYX6-dnWMt9cWUKd9zFUomCmbBLVHqIJjFYm5j-czSCKg35oBAzum61KHqMV/s1600/IMG_5410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8iVDOlq6If2Ib7XhQ__yv4YxiIa96wRCcMXK907u4XD7v-laj7vI7ffn2qTnwq2qsUPcbLf8DUN1TrjXNYX6-dnWMt9cWUKd9zFUomCmbBLVHqIJjFYm5j-czSCKg35oBAzum61KHqMV/s1600/IMG_5410.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Sadly, these were not resounding successes. I only wore the Gabriola skirt one or two times, mostly because it is too big. Same with the McCalls 6696 shirt dress, but mostly because it is a little too snug in the hips, and the sleeves are too long for hot weather, which is when you would wear linen. The Grinder dress got more wear than the other two, but at the end of the day, linen wrinkles (duh) and much of the time, I just don't want to deal with the wrinkling. I think I love the <i>idea </i>of linen way more than the actual, you know, linen.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">My big project of the year was learning to <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/making%20jeans" target="_blank">make jeans</a> which was incredibly satisfying. And I can report that I wear the end result all the time:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxBDictimDgnmezCb6rY3Ssp-OpnHM3Tqw-hxEjqfSjJ1b8Jgme9qH69nXIC0sWlIGqefvsN_kuNsWliDA3jsm7FasypPERzzYYgFBR_vFE0HTRQPZD0OHizynlDVc24cAB9Q9hyIS8TK/s1600/IMG_5795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxBDictimDgnmezCb6rY3Ssp-OpnHM3Tqw-hxEjqfSjJ1b8Jgme9qH69nXIC0sWlIGqefvsN_kuNsWliDA3jsm7FasypPERzzYYgFBR_vFE0HTRQPZD0OHizynlDVc24cAB9Q9hyIS8TK/s1600/IMG_5795.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirTo7jzZa5WPP_zMBDE5IS_KVpf8HKyo9LB6FKm6CPAhc7QKAsCYxyoZI8mMX1BTSJttI-Recl-SnI9Htfk-dVrV-rvDSDln29OrqjXMChSm3gChK06ihBu6Y4cfuZ1lDYGNkti01A9DJe/s1600/IMG_5769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirTo7jzZa5WPP_zMBDE5IS_KVpf8HKyo9LB6FKm6CPAhc7QKAsCYxyoZI8mMX1BTSJttI-Recl-SnI9Htfk-dVrV-rvDSDln29OrqjXMChSm3gChK06ihBu6Y4cfuZ1lDYGNkti01A9DJe/s1600/IMG_5769.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">These won't be my last pair - I'm loving these!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And I made three skirts this summer. My <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Style%20Arc%20Sally%20Jean" target="_blank">Style Arc jeans skirt</a>:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6syCQnNQXAzqYgD_u-IBobaNa-IwcFmCksdZAJCu8pIRViqsybVfy9BMA3a7Cj45YMUSpQOb2bM4z8F5hUuyuMaD8T0AW77scR9TBxn4Jp8Wpb4GBIh7BHrLQOEEMt4wLKBiC8RQZ7gEG/s1600/IMG_5498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6syCQnNQXAzqYgD_u-IBobaNa-IwcFmCksdZAJCu8pIRViqsybVfy9BMA3a7Cj45YMUSpQOb2bM4z8F5hUuyuMaD8T0AW77scR9TBxn4Jp8Wpb4GBIh7BHrLQOEEMt4wLKBiC8RQZ7gEG/s1600/IMG_5498.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujfolXOPvtaUj7jjyL642P8QuiIa6PPpHWngoS0yczaKX8J76QO-xPZ5g_jaFEVKHSlcs8_e-A-fWTduW49xOqlC4H_mOsvi93jsiGwix2qPehb2345inbmi3zwESUCOxm4rczyDw-hdB/s1600/IMG_5500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhujfolXOPvtaUj7jjyL642P8QuiIa6PPpHWngoS0yczaKX8J76QO-xPZ5g_jaFEVKHSlcs8_e-A-fWTduW49xOqlC4H_mOsvi93jsiGwix2qPehb2345inbmi3zwESUCOxm4rczyDw-hdB/s1600/IMG_5500.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">Another <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-tale-of-two-skirts.html" target="_blank">Simplicity 1541</a>:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3aGRf6hyphenhyphen_Q7grZHt3ekUoRk1IhtG1JS3jlos52un6MmuiA2NiBzYpFGhwhXepwwNT_HtTzPh12TCuwVxbBEoZ32mESDrFb7hObpAwbj8Uy0qjtlfojO3Ls0-btbKvL0DcE699kMd3XJ-z/s1600/IMG_5459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3aGRf6hyphenhyphen_Q7grZHt3ekUoRk1IhtG1JS3jlos52un6MmuiA2NiBzYpFGhwhXepwwNT_HtTzPh12TCuwVxbBEoZ32mESDrFb7hObpAwbj8Uy0qjtlfojO3Ls0-btbKvL0DcE699kMd3XJ-z/s1600/IMG_5459.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And the ever popular <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-tale-of-two-skirts.html" target="_blank">Vogue 1247</a>:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivdpIRrezrKkL8ooK8t5PFvdqhJz2HM54VeeJToU6CvV_YlGo-DrfEymXH3f1-qPG3Ag0l-6bz7H-HsdmamWciySl7mDMgy8c7iYlki7QBYR0Mf0TEZRH2PpCzJiGFo9iDw63NnB_sEKqY/s1600/IMG_5474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivdpIRrezrKkL8ooK8t5PFvdqhJz2HM54VeeJToU6CvV_YlGo-DrfEymXH3f1-qPG3Ag0l-6bz7H-HsdmamWciySl7mDMgy8c7iYlki7QBYR0Mf0TEZRH2PpCzJiGFo9iDw63NnB_sEKqY/s1600/IMG_5474.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">All three are well loved, and I anticipate making another of the Style Arc jeans skirt in the selvedge denim that I made for my final pair of jeans.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-re-fashion-experiment-kwik-sew-2976.html" target="_blank">refashion</a> that I did was kind of a bust:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gieZnq4PeTlRcPR-7EW9JxbvB_XMaEp5XMRKPMbacPOd6KWMDcadVcb4idaSLj_z1oqyygHGCwZ-RDqPpTHFB2zJ6T0tIvvirlQu6PWGEv8Bgbp8yGNC6UMo9zCYGgPRLbCkh3HRn1-Q/s1600/IMG_5486+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gieZnq4PeTlRcPR-7EW9JxbvB_XMaEp5XMRKPMbacPOd6KWMDcadVcb4idaSLj_z1oqyygHGCwZ-RDqPpTHFB2zJ6T0tIvvirlQu6PWGEv8Bgbp8yGNC6UMo9zCYGgPRLbCkh3HRn1-Q/s1600/IMG_5486+(2).JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">as I only wore it once. Just too boring and uninspiring to wear, but I enjoyed the challenge of the making.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">One project that I made, but did not blog about, was Gertie's slip pattern, Butterick 6031. I made the slip (and panties) from her <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/slip%20sew-along" target="_blank">sew-along</a>. While the panty pattern didn't work for me, the slip did. I wasn't able to get a decent photo - it's just a slip and I'm not about to model it for all to view on the internet - so I didn't blog about it. I wear it <i>all the time</i>. It turned out exactly like the photos Gertie posted. It is comfortable, useful, and pretty. I love it. And I love Gertie's sew-along for it because her instructions are step-by-step, hold-your-hand kind of instructions which I need. This slip was my very first knit project, and I really needed Gertie to tell me what kind of needle to use, and what my stitch length and width should be for every single seam. Gertie tells you everything you need to know and assumes nothing. Awesome. I have bought additional fabric to make another one soon.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And my biggest failure this year was my annual Christmas dress. I took photos of it literally wadded up on the floor once I realized it was not going to work, but it is such a colossal failure, I can't even be bothered to download the photos from my camera in order to post. It was all due to the fabric, a synthetic metallic white/silver icky fabric I got from Hancock's, and why I thought I could make this work is beyond me. I've bagged it up so I can get to Vicki for her future Christmas postcards, as I need to get it, and the bad juju, out of my house. I blame too much holiday sugar and gluten which impaired my sewing judgment.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So what is up for 2015??? Another jeans skirt, more Gertie pants, and another slip for sure. And I've already started working on another vintage wool suit (pink!). AND, I have ordered a new sewing machine!!! I love my Bernina 145, but while making jeans I realized there were a few limitations - I need a larger machine, with the ability to sew through many layers of denim if I want to keep making jeans (and I do). My Bernina is 12 years old, and while it is a workhorse, a little updating wouldn't hurt. Plus, I'm one of the few sewers I know of that has only one machine - a second one would be a welcome addition.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So I ordered the <a href="http://www.kenssewingcenter.com/juki-hzl-f600-sewing-machine-p-28463.html" target="_blank">Juki F-600</a> from Ken's Sewing Center. Mostly because <a href="http://lineofselvage.jotabout.com/?p=2092" target="_blank">Michael</a> did. Kidding. OK, not really kidding. Michael aspires to sewing I want to do and he seemed to do his homework before he ordered. And the price was right. I had seriously considered buying another Bernina since I have already invested in so many of the Bernina feet, plus it is the machine I am used to. But to get the larger machine and some of the features I wanted, I was going to have to spend close to $ 4,000.00. Uh, no way.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I'm looking forward to its arrival, but bonding it with it will take months, of course. Forward, 2015!</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-87804238875953347552014-11-09T12:09:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.594-08:00A Palette Cleanser - Simplicity 1541<span style="font-size: large;">This week a friend IRL asked me if, after finishing my jeans, have I given up blogging. Well, no, I'm just preoccupied with new projects and thinking about new projects, and frankly, a new obsession. It's been fun, and I have written a dozen blog posts in my head, which haven't actually made it to a keyboard. Writing is mostly thinking, so I like to believe I've done the hard work, just where no one can see. As usual.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Cleaning up after the Jeans Project took a lot of time. There were a half dozen patterns to sort and store, fabric scraps to deal with, and a very messy sewing room. Once that was done, I began the dithering over what to do next.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">A fall coat came to mind. After making the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Butterick%205824%3B%20coat%20sew%20along" target="_blank">Gertie coat</a> last year, I was enthused about another, less complicated, autumn coat. My Gertie coat is made of camel hair, which is really warm, and the big circle skirt is great for the dead of winter, but I want something less . . . well, just <i>less</i>. I have a <a href="http://www.pendleton-usa.com/" target="_blank">Pendleton</a> plaid coat for fall (my favorite season), but it's five years old now and starting to show some wear.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I wanted something easy. And I wanted to use a pattern from one of the many sewing books I own. I recently noticed that while I buy a lot of them, I never actually make anything from them. I'm not certain why. Probably there's the pressure to trace, which I'm not all that excited about. And there are so many big 4 patterns that are cheap and easy.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So I found a coat pattern in Sew Serendipity:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rvMHbbEqb_gamq0bYfssK7dAFNcNI8UFZ66pFQO4IE7JCvemcIbxTujHp5iQua4DfABq6EQKIaFUImwFqlucZj2vhtk6OInQnsXbCkF9VlBiPerRd93dySnFzZpz7YlKM6kuK0gb1zkn/s1600/IMG_5799.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rvMHbbEqb_gamq0bYfssK7dAFNcNI8UFZ66pFQO4IE7JCvemcIbxTujHp5iQua4DfABq6EQKIaFUImwFqlucZj2vhtk6OInQnsXbCkF9VlBiPerRd93dySnFzZpz7YlKM6kuK0gb1zkn/s1600/IMG_5799.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The coat patterns are essentially one pattern consisting of different lengths:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0R1DD5gnMbct2cub5UTA6IfD8GzIMg1euo9FEW9OPZ1cz56ggV3ir058pa61CblHe6lUZA7xhSn8MyYzYEYP6ezRVp70NhD1G95i68C7MlPY4DvwSMLY97y2HXWxjtRGeVbZTVZrXC-uG/s1600/IMG_5800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0R1DD5gnMbct2cub5UTA6IfD8GzIMg1euo9FEW9OPZ1cz56ggV3ir058pa61CblHe6lUZA7xhSn8MyYzYEYP6ezRVp70NhD1G95i68C7MlPY4DvwSMLY97y2HXWxjtRGeVbZTVZrXC-uG/s1600/IMG_5800.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0e8Ny2RFPxAU1Ehm_RM1zdUbxLZnj0lGCp61rxTbSIsdfreWkP_OYqwpN1NqlSxFQzo5umQBNFwiCVBaVUkGGAoDF8j0mi0xKeUf_WmVzlWlCc8XcpkZz3UoVNhGaPmuhlFv8E93jQpd/s1600/IMG_5801.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-0e8Ny2RFPxAU1Ehm_RM1zdUbxLZnj0lGCp61rxTbSIsdfreWkP_OYqwpN1NqlSxFQzo5umQBNFwiCVBaVUkGGAoDF8j0mi0xKeUf_WmVzlWlCc8XcpkZz3UoVNhGaPmuhlFv8E93jQpd/s1600/IMG_5801.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEuj0sM8C9wu438J8-GbVN9NqZASm_0-agpFyIySyA5uQ5a_UAWo-AEUq1wbGdP9q7blHK6t_s0wIm2tJ8_kpMVj7oLSG4PS4NEVTMyXUYfukcFxiXfQS-b4sSJwb0VGlQJJdKKLMsHG_V/s1600/IMG_5802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEuj0sM8C9wu438J8-GbVN9NqZASm_0-agpFyIySyA5uQ5a_UAWo-AEUq1wbGdP9q7blHK6t_s0wIm2tJ8_kpMVj7oLSG4PS4NEVTMyXUYfukcFxiXfQS-b4sSJwb0VGlQJJdKKLMsHG_V/s1600/IMG_5802.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I was interested in the green wool coat (middle photo), with the bottom photo length. This is an easy coat pattern - easy collar, no lining (but I could make one easily), and only three buttons. The search for the perfect coat weight wool commenced.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The wool needed to be coat weight, but supple. Not finding what I wanted, I went ahead traced all the pattern pieces, and made my lining from the same fabric I used on the Gertie coat (I bought 7 yards so I may be sewing with this stuff for YEARS to come.) The size small fit well, and I finally found a wonderful quality wool locally (at the expensive fabric store in town) for a great sale price. I told myself it wasn't teal, it was cadet blue, and brought it home.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">But then doubt set in. While the Sew Serendipity coat is cute, maybe it is a little too . . . cute??? I'm 50 years old now. What I love, and have loved, has suddenly felt too young on me, which has left me feeling vaguely ridiculous. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Not surprisingly, I didn't want to give up on this pattern, having traced it and made the lining, but obviously continuing on with a coat that I won't actually wear defies reason. I cast about for another, perhaps more sophisticated, easy coat pattern. I ordered this from the interwebs:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3c4CcotezpCR6I_8258FTP0_YcFMAmSVQ_mTwEOBHylmsxn6eM0lO6Ymio7J24Q4NogrRemyPnJgpshLn4VCR41py0tArPEugyLoNHhPiIGU_oyyD7D6X-z210p4varjZVKkDVkuEWSuT/s1600/IMG_5844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3c4CcotezpCR6I_8258FTP0_YcFMAmSVQ_mTwEOBHylmsxn6eM0lO6Ymio7J24Q4NogrRemyPnJgpshLn4VCR41py0tArPEugyLoNHhPiIGU_oyyD7D6X-z210p4varjZVKkDVkuEWSuT/s1600/IMG_5844.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">The coat comes in various lengths, and reminds me of the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Tippi%20Hedren%20suit" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren</a> jacket. It is easy, and as a bonus it includes a lining pattern. I thought I was all set.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">But there was the fabric. While gorgeous in weight and drape, I had to finally admit to myself what I had denied: the color is teal, dammit.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdesJQwaG03v6MjCByMUZgty19yABymvODNbOzrrmfKNOC1oPuhTKVq-IWFfNodYIcDlIKP2CNyjLHezOjbTUynN7Gg8-FSU374A5fpdngdSXu_K2tZRpIg02ytjE4ZryTuayAPYmp56-t/s1600/IMG_5797+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdesJQwaG03v6MjCByMUZgty19yABymvODNbOzrrmfKNOC1oPuhTKVq-IWFfNodYIcDlIKP2CNyjLHezOjbTUynN7Gg8-FSU374A5fpdngdSXu_K2tZRpIg02ytjE4ZryTuayAPYmp56-t/s1600/IMG_5797+(2).JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">(This photo makes it look more blue than it is in real life. Unfortunately.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I don't care for teal. And yet, <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2013/12/christmas-dress-complete-butterick-4919.html" target="_blank">I keep ending up with it</a>. I can only assume it's a cruel trick of the universe.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So I gave up and ordered a fall coat from <a href="http://www.bodenusa.com/en-US/Womens-Coats-Jackets/Coats/WE449/Womens-Eliza-Coat.html" target="_blank">Boden</a>.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">With the cooler temps finally coming our way here in Virginia, I pulled out my favorite wool skirt, the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-tale-of-yellow-skirt-mccalls-3341.html" target="_blank">yellow skirt</a> I made last January, McCalls 3341. And not surprisingly, I found it a little too tight. Another little nasty side effect of turning 50. Ick.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I bought the yellow wool at Mood while in NYC last December and I bought a bunch of it, so the solution was to just make another. I wanted something less A-line and longer, more of a pencil skirt, which is more in vogue, so I went with Simplicity 1541, which I made in a stretch jean fabric <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-tale-of-two-skirts.html" target="_blank">this summer</a>:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ5H00yhZmfEmbPvorI9q_ghMZg-qZyg86ei2820TZ_pu75lYn6jVUpb4TO90Fjk7q4dNPitdqClQrG6RUJu275kBf6ByhxD5_Lm5IUMThEKQ4w6Q-UBNmz99gydLVjXc99KIUlFdw0vn9/s1600/IMG_5481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ5H00yhZmfEmbPvorI9q_ghMZg-qZyg86ei2820TZ_pu75lYn6jVUpb4TO90Fjk7q4dNPitdqClQrG6RUJu275kBf6ByhxD5_Lm5IUMThEKQ4w6Q-UBNmz99gydLVjXc99KIUlFdw0vn9/s1600/IMG_5481.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I made it the exactly same way, except I mitered the french pleat in the back as illustrated in Singer's "Sewing for Style" I recently found in a thrift store for $ 5.00.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6t4-9tcvFWBfVd8v67lSm5fs-sOU4jba8GYkPb7m5RtZbmk2efGIYOm9oYWRq9cqA5d9wW_IxvF4pxwwYhLv4E-jYiepUC5-QFhd7DQxwzDvfBEfj7rROVu-lvdqoZjdqq6Hdz13awRP8/s1600/IMG_5841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6t4-9tcvFWBfVd8v67lSm5fs-sOU4jba8GYkPb7m5RtZbmk2efGIYOm9oYWRq9cqA5d9wW_IxvF4pxwwYhLv4E-jYiepUC5-QFhd7DQxwzDvfBEfj7rROVu-lvdqoZjdqq6Hdz13awRP8/s1600/IMG_5841.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Here are the instructions:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCLVKa5QLfgz2dfIpw2srmpHUBXXrMBzOu5TkfaA07q6kev2D_tCT6P_OB2f1Tlv_W9sxCCqRNFLKta580Bb94awf-ikCgz4tDTRxnnfS908mEn-WhFIrQkUl3EiT4ktzIQUj42z9mreMc/s1600/IMG_5842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCLVKa5QLfgz2dfIpw2srmpHUBXXrMBzOu5TkfaA07q6kev2D_tCT6P_OB2f1Tlv_W9sxCCqRNFLKta580Bb94awf-ikCgz4tDTRxnnfS908mEn-WhFIrQkUl3EiT4ktzIQUj42z9mreMc/s1600/IMG_5842.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Easy enough, but mine doesn't lay as flat and shows slightly in this wool:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQLTJVD1nlsI_YNHIyvJEZvJmj_8-8YenIxUgfeTLXmwEpjgPIR5lXz03WSX1mlZeelk7fIP3WPFCuPyJ_FPErhxVQmNH_IF1GEvaIYOviX9VsTh-qH7Ram9UY_Oe7ywhyiSZ6VmgLqJ5g/s1600/IMG_5809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQLTJVD1nlsI_YNHIyvJEZvJmj_8-8YenIxUgfeTLXmwEpjgPIR5lXz03WSX1mlZeelk7fIP3WPFCuPyJ_FPErhxVQmNH_IF1GEvaIYOviX9VsTh-qH7Ram9UY_Oe7ywhyiSZ6VmgLqJ5g/s1600/IMG_5809.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">If I made this skirt again, I probably won't bother with the mitering; it lays flatter just folding up normally, and no one cares how I manage my kick pleat. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBeEJoAf-x542gglmJYknYpHvARLtgKMDSSn5tQ-QVh99LZAKHd2yAxAuzOCKpwMKXS_mREisAJ-jMBViWpBbz7rNy42B7dAyxHmn9J-Y6BL2OXnq8067JPkdEY8iwf_49aliE-_0s0kY-/s1600/IMG_5813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBeEJoAf-x542gglmJYknYpHvARLtgKMDSSn5tQ-QVh99LZAKHd2yAxAuzOCKpwMKXS_mREisAJ-jMBViWpBbz7rNy42B7dAyxHmn9J-Y6BL2OXnq8067JPkdEY8iwf_49aliE-_0s0kY-/s1600/IMG_5813.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLeW1BRZHA3u44ZNjp25U1x1-X1wackuIkzAwRGK8UT1dhsZpLfK9TNKxynBu1xRBSkH00z_BX4FT-gwbYNmQ937_l6fQ3w0jBlMvcxlOHgDOVxVnVkLl5l2JJK6Qk4AkH6uFHVtlnDbp9/s1600/IMG_5810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLeW1BRZHA3u44ZNjp25U1x1-X1wackuIkzAwRGK8UT1dhsZpLfK9TNKxynBu1xRBSkH00z_BX4FT-gwbYNmQ937_l6fQ3w0jBlMvcxlOHgDOVxVnVkLl5l2JJK6Qk4AkH6uFHVtlnDbp9/s1600/IMG_5810.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFM8Y5eZtUKqZcw-a__5pzdQGBDoaZVQIVYx794OUi8S7bjocsztptjSmAUS2ZENpbtM3poOO5F32Tfv29u0uTUVu-ACXduA0kYkCtLvGl5fRgg7WN2mOWoq9O6p8VfG7u49GvOfMrODOM/s1600/IMG_5811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFM8Y5eZtUKqZcw-a__5pzdQGBDoaZVQIVYx794OUi8S7bjocsztptjSmAUS2ZENpbtM3poOO5F32Tfv29u0uTUVu-ACXduA0kYkCtLvGl5fRgg7WN2mOWoq9O6p8VfG7u49GvOfMrODOM/s1600/IMG_5811.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr2Bv2k8REUrvj9L8a1iZV0o7wfcNIuoUkBlygF9ipI6VmmKUuw2fMGjZw32lJuoktrbSBMJuSCjtFS-t0b38DRhDObqL1rA7XYozuldo-WchGsZM9jPo7PdgtVzkTHfGht8KKlhlMll0G/s1600/IMG_5813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr2Bv2k8REUrvj9L8a1iZV0o7wfcNIuoUkBlygF9ipI6VmmKUuw2fMGjZw32lJuoktrbSBMJuSCjtFS-t0b38DRhDObqL1rA7XYozuldo-WchGsZM9jPo7PdgtVzkTHfGht8KKlhlMll0G/s1600/IMG_5813.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2zqbg3kXb3HypNZHqKgyb82xksAFVQfxhonb1Zkldx8PLvzY8Bu6_C102xzwzGHNiXLcv7MBAUxtLJBX5xfapXkgfvxv0cn3opxYRb8tAF0wn5_7eVP636WKdDiFygNqaGmxRimH2cd-/s1600/IMG_5814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2zqbg3kXb3HypNZHqKgyb82xksAFVQfxhonb1Zkldx8PLvzY8Bu6_C102xzwzGHNiXLcv7MBAUxtLJBX5xfapXkgfvxv0cn3opxYRb8tAF0wn5_7eVP636WKdDiFygNqaGmxRimH2cd-/s1600/IMG_5814.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I had planned to line it in silk but ran out of enthusiasm and just decided I would wear a half slip with it.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I used the same tablecloth fabric for the waist facing that I used on the original yellow skirt:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjtN-xjxEDNv7-NHcmuvUP1_2qKzt8QOjO8n0HxQQZ2pu5c3Kq-2uAep8N2YG6yPaQBckGGuba9MhsVJ2cgtgA5kRjep77teyA0hTzNOCAAU7-S-nVUXX6slgqyqtOJaGJYAnsxJNEwMJB/s1600/IMG_5839.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjtN-xjxEDNv7-NHcmuvUP1_2qKzt8QOjO8n0HxQQZ2pu5c3Kq-2uAep8N2YG6yPaQBckGGuba9MhsVJ2cgtgA5kRjep77teyA0hTzNOCAAU7-S-nVUXX6slgqyqtOJaGJYAnsxJNEwMJB/s1600/IMG_5839.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Also, this time I put in a centered zipper rather than the lapped; it is just easier for me:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRt3k7HbnQZQmcuV1staXf2TRFhEkcy03BJIGkRUFDj4l-5b-0bmhQSU6QBL6W-uS9LfQ4091EGokLPZnaTcY5AwZM9MrBqoSKQtx8ZIxQhbJQqtKauYVAa5h06r1ZKtcma2VyFb4mKTii/s1600/IMG_5838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRt3k7HbnQZQmcuV1staXf2TRFhEkcy03BJIGkRUFDj4l-5b-0bmhQSU6QBL6W-uS9LfQ4091EGokLPZnaTcY5AwZM9MrBqoSKQtx8ZIxQhbJQqtKauYVAa5h06r1ZKtcma2VyFb4mKTii/s1600/IMG_5838.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I used the same 3/4 seam allowances I used on the last skirt, but this one is tighter because of the lack of stretch. If I make it again in wool, I'll use 5/8 seams instead just to give a little more wiggle room (literally).</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I do enjoy topstitching:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMgTGD9H890UN7bGgILpG7RcBenVT413ip_yv-d94PfdWy9iDofzqTFRSPdh68KvrjvGv-SC5FT7zqrSXdZwSzRK6cfzQdz_kJ_-ELw2_zhDKvo1CF44uOuJU84cBolpivenYOottK1u8/s1600/IMG_5835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEMgTGD9H890UN7bGgILpG7RcBenVT413ip_yv-d94PfdWy9iDofzqTFRSPdh68KvrjvGv-SC5FT7zqrSXdZwSzRK6cfzQdz_kJ_-ELw2_zhDKvo1CF44uOuJU84cBolpivenYOottK1u8/s1600/IMG_5835.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjFsek9PTcw3QucfYQw0fYKjHz7oiEiOk1okY2_KhH798x83X7bVfp55E6X2IO4QkrnlbIFU4LybGVurY8U26eB8LJkE8-8TuPmB3HNsLMglTtoR6rguGFXEH-gG-ppu7CgmyvwNA4fluZ/s1600/IMG_5837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjFsek9PTcw3QucfYQw0fYKjHz7oiEiOk1okY2_KhH798x83X7bVfp55E6X2IO4QkrnlbIFU4LybGVurY8U26eB8LJkE8-8TuPmB3HNsLMglTtoR6rguGFXEH-gG-ppu7CgmyvwNA4fluZ/s1600/IMG_5837.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">So yay, I like the skirt. But my sewing these days is in flux. Not only do I have way too many clothes, I have too many that I don't wear. Remember my last count of 46 skirts hanging in my closet? Something had to be done.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">There are a ton of blogs out there dedicated to minimalist wardrobes, but this is what is working for me:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">1) For every garment I make or buy, I get rid of two. So for this skirt that I added to my closet, I eliminated two skirts. This has helped me reduce the 46 skirts down to 29.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">2) No more black. I saw, and wore, enough black in the '80s and '90s to last me a lifetime. <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2009/03/spring-shopping.html" target="_blank"> I'm tired of it</a>. And as I age, it looks too severe on me, making me look pale and tired. Still, of those 29 skirts I still have, six are black. Clearly more purging is necessary.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">3) I've discovered I'm both emotional and practical when it comes to clothes hoarding. I keep some clothes because I used to love wearing them, even though I don't wear them now, and I keep clothes because they are practical (it was cheap! it was expensive! I might need it some day!), even though I don't wear them. One example: I have a black suit with two skirts that I can't bring myself to get rid of because, what if, God forbid, someone should <i>die</i>? Obviously, reason should tell me that if that happens any store in America will have black clothes suitable for the impending funeral.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">4) For the first time in a long time in my adult life, I have put on weight and some of my clothes are too tight - this is a real bummer. Keeping them in my closet isn't lifting my spirits, but getting rid of them feels like waiving the white flag of defeat. I know that admitting it is the first step in dealing with the problem.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">5) I'm only sewing what I feel <strike>passionate</strike> obsessed about. If I'm dithering, I'm probably not sufficiently enthralled with it, i.e. <i>see</i> coat story above. If this is the case, I'm buying what I need and calling it a day (<i>see also,</i> Boden solution above). </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">6) Here's an interesting article about discarding everything that <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/23/garden/home-organization-advice-from-marie-kondo.html?smid=fb-share&_r=2" target="_blank">does not bring you joy</a>. I'm hoping looking at my clothes about whether they bring me joy will liberate me from the emotional/practical considerations in keeping and tossing clothes.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">7) The clothes I have removed from my closet haven't actually left the house. They are in storage in an unfinished attic room which helps me remove them them from the closet. It's sort of a half-way house for unwanted clothes. I'm separated from them, but if I ever need them, they are recoverable. I hope this helps in ultimate separation in the future.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">8) My goal is to own less clothes which I actually wear that allow more creativity in how I wear them. And, of course, good quality, whether I make them or buy them.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Coming soon: my new obsession and why I'm sewing it.</span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-45076163860813264442014-09-28T15:04:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.540-08:00Making Jeans - Finally! McCalls 6610<span style="font-size: large;">Y'all. After more than three months, I have a pair of jeans! Here's the preview:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicstUsA30X4HAndz3L-_AaGAubC8pWdljxfupEKvSBnckatqibwQ3gv30DpqYLUf8tTq9RCOV_-O3U50RhTIR05AfknMQmvq71I0cwHGbyY333BPryhx4f_zg-QJtbXmxbS7pYMw_FfFln/s1600/IMG_5787.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicstUsA30X4HAndz3L-_AaGAubC8pWdljxfupEKvSBnckatqibwQ3gv30DpqYLUf8tTq9RCOV_-O3U50RhTIR05AfknMQmvq71I0cwHGbyY333BPryhx4f_zg-QJtbXmxbS7pYMw_FfFln/s1600/IMG_5787.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">But to back up, after many muslins (I lost count) I wasn't interested in doing more, and it was time to make the Real Thing. I began with genuine American-made 13.5 oz denim manufactured by Cone Mills in North Carolina, which I ordered from <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/" target="_blank">Taylor</a>. It arrived in record time, and I washed my yardage twice in hot water and hot dryer. Here's what it looked like afterwards:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWXivfGjcqoV18y_SbfFSH_aO60W7NqN-PMWYAs_GLmSAldDqnF2H9p-EMpyLj3QE-c076HK884spmUwGXj4wo9pBdJP5E6fbtKOsYKher8UyYeE_TMhxTLVrJLmkEraVL0YWHzSi37wO/s1600/IMG_5736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWXivfGjcqoV18y_SbfFSH_aO60W7NqN-PMWYAs_GLmSAldDqnF2H9p-EMpyLj3QE-c076HK884spmUwGXj4wo9pBdJP5E6fbtKOsYKher8UyYeE_TMhxTLVrJLmkEraVL0YWHzSi37wO/s1600/IMG_5736.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: large;">I could tell this was real indigo dyed denim because my washer and dryer ended up blue after each washing and drying. Which didn't hurt my feelings, because that gradual fade is what will eventually give me that great aged blue patina of my college jeans.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">This is <a href="http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/03/the-rundown-on-selvedge-denim-what-is-it-all-about/" target="_blank">selvedge denim</a> which has this distinctive red thread running through the selvedge:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidHgnc0z61TSAg6OXCd_4EePI2M3Zul_l4dfBTJpxuK1-GL3iq1pAVXm7qbuODN4JBImLA69O_RercTUCDiRJuI8SKpenJYagQv5OomJM9Grh1hwpgmxbS8Wsxz044YSCscPU-duBa7hVn/s1600/IMG_5733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidHgnc0z61TSAg6OXCd_4EePI2M3Zul_l4dfBTJpxuK1-GL3iq1pAVXm7qbuODN4JBImLA69O_RercTUCDiRJuI8SKpenJYagQv5OomJM9Grh1hwpgmxbS8Wsxz044YSCscPU-duBa7hVn/s1600/IMG_5733.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">It was a joy to work with - substantial and it pressed beautifully.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">As you know from my last muslin, I hadn't quite perfected my fit, so I ordered the Palmer/Pletsch DVD, "Jeans for Real People":</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT3768w8SHT1J1ipfVNl6wgf2mku2smI7hojdt9WFIsJsSE8en7Ciq0N8HxfRK6N_i6n5sYJV5KSnAqW9mcQ-3IpstbV4qNfkFjjW5BiEfu41KlhLuZT1855Mwker5G6fBaqoyzI6PojOp/s1600/IMG_5775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT3768w8SHT1J1ipfVNl6wgf2mku2smI7hojdt9WFIsJsSE8en7Ciq0N8HxfRK6N_i6n5sYJV5KSnAqW9mcQ-3IpstbV4qNfkFjjW5BiEfu41KlhLuZT1855Mwker5G6fBaqoyzI6PojOp/s1600/IMG_5775.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I'm not certain this DVD would have been of much value to me when I first starting making jeans because it emphasizes fit, rather than the detailed how-to of sewing jeans. For example, I don't think it would have helped me to figure out a fly zip, since the demonstration was for a cut-on fly extension, rather than a sewn-on fly extension. And some of the techniques in the DVD look like shortcuts, rather than classic jean construction. For example, the DVD claims nylon zippers are stronger than metal zippers and it demonstrates jeans being made with a regular nylon zipper. Are nylon zippers really stronger? Do we make jeans with metal zippers because that is all that was available when jeans were first made and continue with them because of tradition?</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I don't think so. I recently purchased "The Costumer's Handbook":</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq1xAwSFLL2NJi7izQVLF6VRYoEcOYh0PfACB-6nHK-taFntrvVOoSN0vomcX7_djYMf__hcALDwt0RCM8mvU1-1OVRufodCMHQMMNZfhGUbnH7bjFfDvuNEcdys9ysFXOsthXUC-9Gw2g/s1600/IMG_5796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq1xAwSFLL2NJi7izQVLF6VRYoEcOYh0PfACB-6nHK-taFntrvVOoSN0vomcX7_djYMf__hcALDwt0RCM8mvU1-1OVRufodCMHQMMNZfhGUbnH7bjFfDvuNEcdys9ysFXOsthXUC-9Gw2g/s1600/IMG_5796.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">and it advises on page 122, "Always use metal zippers in costumes. Nylon zippers are simply not strong enough nor reliable enough for stage use." (This is a fantastic book, by the way, full of useful information, including how to make slopers for men and women. Its out of print, but if you can find it, buy it or steal it.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">What I did get out of the DVD: </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">1. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Collins-Basting-Tape-5-1-Yards/dp/B000YZ5RVI" target="_blank">Basting tape</a>. I didn't know this stuff existed. I use Steam-A-Seam for basting where I can, but the temporary basting tape looks like a great time saver. I need to get some.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">2. A technique for making sure your back pockets are placed on the back pieces in identical placement.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">3. I learned an alternative way to make a buttonhole.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">4. Fitting. They fit three women in this DVD, and I probably learned more than I realize. The drawback to using the methods shown is that you really can't do it alone. You not only need another person, but you need someone who knows the Palmer/Pletsch technique.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">One common pattern adjustment is to carve out more of the back seam, making it deeper - this is very common on women over 30, and my understanding is that Palmer/Pletsch pants patterns have different cutting lines for the back seat depending on whether you are under 30 or over 30. Which I think is both helpful and hysterical.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I decided I probably needed this adjustment, based on the Calvin Klein pattern which felt so comfortable. Rather than go with the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/08/a-very-promising-jeans-muslin-or-holy.html" target="_blank">Calvin Klein</a> pattern, though, I decided to use <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6610-products-23003.php?page_id=96" target="_blank">McCalls 6610</a> (which I used for my last muslin):</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaa6XpLY7RSFRmtGUD6KdU5HSRToDoj7255mohPoHwdyhzfELOyG9G10BH93MAOuBk0wBIwtV5fVVZ9_BchWoFWfDgDIO2IHmupGTzemqgt4wTuoL6MSyZFCm38KrtNQQAYC5taKLogw8s/s1600/IMG_5776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaa6XpLY7RSFRmtGUD6KdU5HSRToDoj7255mohPoHwdyhzfELOyG9G10BH93MAOuBk0wBIwtV5fVVZ9_BchWoFWfDgDIO2IHmupGTzemqgt4wTuoL6MSyZFCm38KrtNQQAYC5taKLogw8s/s1600/IMG_5776.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Like <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/09/making-jeans-making-progressmccalls-6610.html" target="_blank">last time</a>, I made a size 14; the difference this time was I didn't shorten the rise, and I redrew the seat curve to match the Calvin Klein pattern. Here it is:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3w9IS_k5lWFTYN9FmHuocrKKx7MapCS_T6qLbzkAm91g49_FLcPR5LJ93Q8vlOFs298EDtqcb2E5ELf0wrh9Ok5nwf0Y96RRL_KheyIhHw6PHnGYdWKKO4LRMRyAMVygZc46H_uLlZ7RG/s1600/IMG_5729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3w9IS_k5lWFTYN9FmHuocrKKx7MapCS_T6qLbzkAm91g49_FLcPR5LJ93Q8vlOFs298EDtqcb2E5ELf0wrh9Ok5nwf0Y96RRL_KheyIhHw6PHnGYdWKKO4LRMRyAMVygZc46H_uLlZ7RG/s1600/IMG_5729.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The McCalls pattern is the tan piece; the Calvin Klein pattern is the white tissue paper. You can see the re-drawn seat curve in black ink on the McCalls pattern piece.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Also, based on the Calvin Klein pattern, I added 1/4 inch to the side seam in the hip area of the front pattern piece only.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">In addition to the DVD discussed above, I took Victoria's pants fitting <a href="http://tenthousandsewinghours.blogspot.com/2014/08/im-teaching-burdastyle-webinar-on-pants.html" target="_blank">webinar</a> put on by Burda, and in it, she suggests that you use a flexible ruler and bend it around yourself to discover your seat curve. Not to get all personal and all, but this is my seat curve:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hacBxtlQumAaYBG9DigAFJ8OKVYND3KUTJn7ixw2dvFDjXSn3hZdkOZTZcuGxJM97ZkrRnvyYtM_N7qhVb6qQO_OlVpjNKbU_flOr3idwv8gjrUDMq5vYM8wPI9zZW-QidPrp61mU98X/s1600/IMG_5738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hacBxtlQumAaYBG9DigAFJ8OKVYND3KUTJn7ixw2dvFDjXSn3hZdkOZTZcuGxJM97ZkrRnvyYtM_N7qhVb6qQO_OlVpjNKbU_flOr3idwv8gjrUDMq5vYM8wPI9zZW-QidPrp61mU98X/s1600/IMG_5738.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The left side is my front, and the right is my back side. I compared my shape to the back seat curve on my pattern:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3BY94Q4aKql4-fBcDuwFhUYibDRFvNHFas8Z090NxYKZWVKImFWJh3LTGgRc_iWldOnhE0OkW3H-vDOKTKCyzykecunuywG7IZzPM3jJ3ETCy0IiA_2zP-n1X6l45fFGyeS2vOpu87xXa/s1600/IMG_5732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3BY94Q4aKql4-fBcDuwFhUYibDRFvNHFas8Z090NxYKZWVKImFWJh3LTGgRc_iWldOnhE0OkW3H-vDOKTKCyzykecunuywG7IZzPM3jJ3ETCy0IiA_2zP-n1X6l45fFGyeS2vOpu87xXa/s1600/IMG_5732.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Pretty good, I would say!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">By this time the actual sewing of the jeans was straightforward. I decided to use an old <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-2514-misses-skirts.aspx" target="_blank">New Look skirt</a> made of antique flour sack fabric for my pockets:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_8iiFlbeC1V5Ml1r022hEvOm3WPe7YUEUMcAJvX72iBShg00abPaqOsF7kRltsjzY6B8OAuGgkrrClBb6WhW0KvrAlXZJDLCiik5bvntxF4ElQMSshgykSuC-g6YGZZ9-wJ41PO67On4B/s1600/IMG_5739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_8iiFlbeC1V5Ml1r022hEvOm3WPe7YUEUMcAJvX72iBShg00abPaqOsF7kRltsjzY6B8OAuGgkrrClBb6WhW0KvrAlXZJDLCiik5bvntxF4ElQMSshgykSuC-g6YGZZ9-wJ41PO67On4B/s1600/IMG_5739.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I must have made this skirt ten or so years ago before I started blogging, and I've since "grown" out of it. Flour sack fabric is incredibly strong and durable and I love this print:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQDLa00gtmh0WpmTSGRPgONhhtFbfDls4v5vs8ffoQJYs4rEklIKj3d4SRxkGfORm6fZIu_J75R7vypZoSC6Ow1zAT_bmAym5R9-N7aofVXow-ZmlN1ypVyvHAImnyM3o0pzBo3ecYtjZ/s1600/IMG_5740.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQDLa00gtmh0WpmTSGRPgONhhtFbfDls4v5vs8ffoQJYs4rEklIKj3d4SRxkGfORm6fZIu_J75R7vypZoSC6Ow1zAT_bmAym5R9-N7aofVXow-ZmlN1ypVyvHAImnyM3o0pzBo3ecYtjZ/s1600/IMG_5740.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Here's the coin pocket in progress: </span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvtVsgC-PXzo3sBSSscMiw28cXHT8ISP2CZguhWwWomNf8BoSWXlplu0pbGslvDhfS73AjXnCzQ5V3KcUqFjo7JyrAFFkA9thCjun36wc0CPbFJ5LIodO2sf5pn0yEjkPEfjmFyrkY-Yda/s1600/IMG_5748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvtVsgC-PXzo3sBSSscMiw28cXHT8ISP2CZguhWwWomNf8BoSWXlplu0pbGslvDhfS73AjXnCzQ5V3KcUqFjo7JyrAFFkA9thCjun36wc0CPbFJ5LIodO2sf5pn0yEjkPEfjmFyrkY-Yda/s1600/IMG_5748.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">As mentioned, I used Steam A Seam for basting purposes wherever I could:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpi0PyqOzxsoDpvqvh0myT_XI3anVWY2yjT4jC13dk20C2mZOO7wyYiUXH_LfwfhHpP5MiRsGiUPlpB10RhatjJvPTAWRG0lPoOGlWNtmpWnk6SPOZsDdEeKYQABJeIjnAvZQotuNp7fSb/s1600/IMG_5745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpi0PyqOzxsoDpvqvh0myT_XI3anVWY2yjT4jC13dk20C2mZOO7wyYiUXH_LfwfhHpP5MiRsGiUPlpB10RhatjJvPTAWRG0lPoOGlWNtmpWnk6SPOZsDdEeKYQABJeIjnAvZQotuNp7fSb/s1600/IMG_5745.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I used topstitching thread I ordered from Taylor as well, and it worked very well. I was impressed:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlVuINiDwq_fM5q7G6aCDZt9TgNvT5m-tO_eCVLAXFKWgRd3dPic9TLTd-XjrkgAMoJeFq1WbhjNKF2I7BK1jXx7CWMyAJLjXLn9zvMlQwQcMMAEvD8oVZPWnxnFvQR5wMdiVRPQ3yD_h/s1600/IMG_5784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlVuINiDwq_fM5q7G6aCDZt9TgNvT5m-tO_eCVLAXFKWgRd3dPic9TLTd-XjrkgAMoJeFq1WbhjNKF2I7BK1jXx7CWMyAJLjXLn9zvMlQwQcMMAEvD8oVZPWnxnFvQR5wMdiVRPQ3yD_h/s1600/IMG_5784.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I used the fly zipper instructions from the Calvin Klein pattern because I have found they are the best. This time I hand basted the fly closed to make double sure the zipper would be covered (unlike the last time):</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcIXkBFc1qi5u6Qwe7uZsCG9i9RImpIANnunAcxCvKyEfiBMm1PE4RhmfZoKkjqWXIlw0Us_m5MVWZaeovMlVsfSUsiODhwSm-0Q2OtVkWtUsW0hNAFA8ROq2eu9LMAZ64Q4_sLDODkOO/s1600/IMG_5773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqcIXkBFc1qi5u6Qwe7uZsCG9i9RImpIANnunAcxCvKyEfiBMm1PE4RhmfZoKkjqWXIlw0Us_m5MVWZaeovMlVsfSUsiODhwSm-0Q2OtVkWtUsW0hNAFA8ROq2eu9LMAZ64Q4_sLDODkOO/s1600/IMG_5773.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Just for fun, I made the zipper guard out of the same flour sack fabric rather than denim:</span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqV7Oo7RSwn9IJiz6yXt2vxkP10RqrryZ2H1T2DNj-CsxTFQKDjc7C9puuavDRYV241Th5DGSuJ6lclwjgGEUbAvmD6Q111yFIdfnDx901uQnFVX2GCQC3KqiRAzhPEiwcARZMFHNwTpnp/s1600/IMG_5780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqV7Oo7RSwn9IJiz6yXt2vxkP10RqrryZ2H1T2DNj-CsxTFQKDjc7C9puuavDRYV241Th5DGSuJ6lclwjgGEUbAvmD6Q111yFIdfnDx901uQnFVX2GCQC3KqiRAzhPEiwcARZMFHNwTpnp/s1600/IMG_5780.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I tried, in vain, to find an alterations/tailor shop that would make my buttonhole for me, due to all the denim layers that I knew would give me trouble. In the end, I used the Palmer/Pletsch method of zigzagging freehand a triangle shaped hole. I went back to my college jeans and discovered that is how Levis made the buttonhole way back then:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc2FPGiWTNCRgeGr7FyLBs7Cdcn8j_Ltesnu19KOyCFz0FX2VxL38oC0fjZyh9cyg0Ge_KpmNfxXryTQ7VXaOPjKYuG_esKXfDFgWkMX6j9PBeKVFlUVURuZhDMx8mLSCyHSu2fc4RVT3k/s1600/IMG_5751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc2FPGiWTNCRgeGr7FyLBs7Cdcn8j_Ltesnu19KOyCFz0FX2VxL38oC0fjZyh9cyg0Ge_KpmNfxXryTQ7VXaOPjKYuG_esKXfDFgWkMX6j9PBeKVFlUVURuZhDMx8mLSCyHSu2fc4RVT3k/s1600/IMG_5751.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">You can see it's no thing of beauty. Here's the back:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8Hj4PUJK27YXwoYD4q1rYBidvvHbDJ8X74yjSOOypcYK5N8sgFoZveu9cJywHjs1SsasJmZWllP1IoVDX3yl3f9jfqBEQsubJeZKH2-gY5a7n8_iP98qj4dMgXPdmZ-COLiZDoswZ6F2/s1600/IMG_5752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8Hj4PUJK27YXwoYD4q1rYBidvvHbDJ8X74yjSOOypcYK5N8sgFoZveu9cJywHjs1SsasJmZWllP1IoVDX3yl3f9jfqBEQsubJeZKH2-gY5a7n8_iP98qj4dMgXPdmZ-COLiZDoswZ6F2/s1600/IMG_5752.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I figured I couldn't do any worse. Here's mine:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXBo_1b9RPXqto_GHuApG7X27UP7xy2vRIqNwcDopqBGMNS7bY4WZgCBTdy2C63xMNOSk5OXx8J8a_BsoKr7g1z-e0MbWUTl0LPwAeTsyS5Mx8mVSQIwL1S3W-3lvqrZSuy7ctfnWKsUw/s1600/IMG_5753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDXBo_1b9RPXqto_GHuApG7X27UP7xy2vRIqNwcDopqBGMNS7bY4WZgCBTdy2C63xMNOSk5OXx8J8a_BsoKr7g1z-e0MbWUTl0LPwAeTsyS5Mx8mVSQIwL1S3W-3lvqrZSuy7ctfnWKsUw/s1600/IMG_5753.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div><span style="font-size: large;">For the waistband, I just cut a rectangle of fabric 4 1/4 inches wide on the crosswise grain, which finished 1 1/2 inches wide after folding in half and taking into account 5/8 inch seam allowances. I didn't use the pattern waistband length; I just used whatever length it took to cover the top of the jeans. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">This fabric was only about 31 inches wide, so I had to piece the waistband as it was cut on the crosswise grain, rather than the lengthwise grain. I put the seam at the back, so it would be covered by the back belt loop:</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO__bOEnORKBIUxjbrjP7YiLbWyRvGg78qrAj9waejZEAVLxXO9Drq2KK74P56ZfnvikKkBLCkowa_WGD4bJgNO0EhZFyeGLr_WPxWlY6q6frwH-0qMmJ_NVnJ7Cg_wtbzKH9c1M1sD-Wu/s1600/IMG_5758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO__bOEnORKBIUxjbrjP7YiLbWyRvGg78qrAj9waejZEAVLxXO9Drq2KK74P56ZfnvikKkBLCkowa_WGD4bJgNO0EhZFyeGLr_WPxWlY6q6frwH-0qMmJ_NVnJ7Cg_wtbzKH9c1M1sD-Wu/s1600/IMG_5758.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_zDgEzW_fM5V582lUopmQAxtLEE6MTbkj4ZGTKOPoJxrWk5pdKE9yWjHfFpINPLt4jpW6T_bOCe1N_XlbdnbatOjHL2wlBeRbOFsnts0Iq_M7JpksJY0aICf_Bmh9XSXVgb-3DN1fmX9C/s1600/IMG_5785.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_zDgEzW_fM5V582lUopmQAxtLEE6MTbkj4ZGTKOPoJxrWk5pdKE9yWjHfFpINPLt4jpW6T_bOCe1N_XlbdnbatOjHL2wlBeRbOFsnts0Iq_M7JpksJY0aICf_Bmh9XSXVgb-3DN1fmX9C/s1600/IMG_5785.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">(See why you should cut your jeans waistband on the cross grain <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/yet_another_pet_peeve_waistbands/" target="_blank">here</a>. Kathleen explains all.)</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">I made the belt loops using the selvedge edge so there wouldn't be any unraveling. I basically cut a strip 1 1/4 inches wide along the selvedge, pressed the strip into thirds, and then top stitched the right side. This is the backside:</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIcQ93DqL9oY_6NkyAvR9WD-DKSg6lavoFJGiaKkFyQBYkaONIHM5o2iKT0y2x6EKXIdj45KwEFKYj4xbPDPv2GNxL3GRKSiwc9PXT6QEdS8MAixVgtOjk82XBsXBbfWkWeyKMqnlmCZ6O/s1600/IMG_5749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIcQ93DqL9oY_6NkyAvR9WD-DKSg6lavoFJGiaKkFyQBYkaONIHM5o2iKT0y2x6EKXIdj45KwEFKYj4xbPDPv2GNxL3GRKSiwc9PXT6QEdS8MAixVgtOjk82XBsXBbfWkWeyKMqnlmCZ6O/s1600/IMG_5749.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">This is the top. I tried two finished sizes: 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch. I ended up going with the narrower belt loop:</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8nKt2HikflSqBWrmX2H6x4pLAteVPvhdl3b3uUfmDUWF5nSZvfZc6yRSla_gqD69iuN_xsLPj8QhWMZ7KjdGP3rbO_7XnSuYpNkLSKLHaKpcX0MG6_icCOI40_7m5HkQcDvc_rmG87LIQ/s1600/IMG_5750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8nKt2HikflSqBWrmX2H6x4pLAteVPvhdl3b3uUfmDUWF5nSZvfZc6yRSla_gqD69iuN_xsLPj8QhWMZ7KjdGP3rbO_7XnSuYpNkLSKLHaKpcX0MG6_icCOI40_7m5HkQcDvc_rmG87LIQ/s1600/IMG_5750.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">Getting the belt loops on was a challenge with my Bernina with this thick denim. I ended up using a straight stitch, rather than a zig-zag, and I hand cranked the needle through the denim rather than using the presser foot. I think the belt loops are on pretty well, but we will see.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ZI-yuwuhjpVBQJR0J1z4Fbyp4ZtI_pry_rdncICt3baI6VWgssdF0MMyYOVyxFCbxJ50KrsIt6bwMoDcSGwKG_0kISbgPnjbDM239effBoo8gMbNUq5xGkUlqLP5misekwNoQuM1rw4q/s1600/IMG_5781.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ZI-yuwuhjpVBQJR0J1z4Fbyp4ZtI_pry_rdncICt3baI6VWgssdF0MMyYOVyxFCbxJ50KrsIt6bwMoDcSGwKG_0kISbgPnjbDM239effBoo8gMbNUq5xGkUlqLP5misekwNoQuM1rw4q/s1600/IMG_5781.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">I got the rivets from Taylor too. I managed the rivets on the coin pocket by myself, but the shanks of the "nail" part of the rivets were too long for the regular pockets. Using the denim spacers as <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/category/tutorials/" target="_blank">Taylor suggests</a> did not work for me. I got The Carpenter to use his wire cutters to shorten the nail part, and then he pounded in the rivets on the front side (rather than the back, as I was doing). Fortunately, he understands rivet technology.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">Even though I had made three or four (or five?) muslins, I still learned stuff while making these jeans. It became clear to me that your front pockets aren't meant to lie flat when you construct them; if they did, you wouldn't have any ease to get your hands inside them. And I finally noticed the little tack on the front stitching of the fly which secures your zipper guard at the bottom of the zipper, so I added that. And don't sew your belt loops on flat to the jeans - leave them loose so you have enough ease to get your belt through them.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwn95ncJvJm9RgFM9LPrShFLnrhO0Nu1OuQPf8I4X20Zw-gAE3SrGSNLxwdKxg2P8eI_nytKGieiwLT1pLJttnb13-i9HTibmScZuKBBBOsLXsT7k0VMjyXy2HaspPaN9qJJ9PLa1tPQhf/s1600/IMG_5788.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwn95ncJvJm9RgFM9LPrShFLnrhO0Nu1OuQPf8I4X20Zw-gAE3SrGSNLxwdKxg2P8eI_nytKGieiwLT1pLJttnb13-i9HTibmScZuKBBBOsLXsT7k0VMjyXy2HaspPaN9qJJ9PLa1tPQhf/s1600/IMG_5788.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">The fit isn't perfect, of course. See that slight wrinkle just below the yoke (below)? I'm confident that indicates a slight sway back adjustment wouldn't be amiss:</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVRnkLHdRMi7RS3ajZlQFL8drdUidgwtWqvjjjFTFsoHXP6o9zgi2mA_rYOzFNL4hr0jhKPqTw9PBJmzgAXEtX0EMrGrkhOHzfIGjjZ3qFFwlvuef55I3ibiMmyP_pijpJFbapVsMyflPc/s1600/IMG_5789.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVRnkLHdRMi7RS3ajZlQFL8drdUidgwtWqvjjjFTFsoHXP6o9zgi2mA_rYOzFNL4hr0jhKPqTw9PBJmzgAXEtX0EMrGrkhOHzfIGjjZ3qFFwlvuef55I3ibiMmyP_pijpJFbapVsMyflPc/s1600/IMG_5789.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">But I'm not all that worked up about it. I'm very pleased with the fit, and they are incredibly comfortable. I've been wearing them for the past two days. Which is why the front wrinkles aren't indicative of a fitting issue; they just mean I haven't taken them off for days:</span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmlnN80TZee6LsM343Uh5Qcp3ffwUD65izFLr6HpB6YXOJCMrlU-4ck457juBVdwmUhS0fOEwrcn0BlvEj_qn3lde03h1VxdYONZA1QiCd9pS7KTizf5v1wi18gvB6ZaHri5zBcXqydKQO/s1600/IMG_5795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmlnN80TZee6LsM343Uh5Qcp3ffwUD65izFLr6HpB6YXOJCMrlU-4ck457juBVdwmUhS0fOEwrcn0BlvEj_qn3lde03h1VxdYONZA1QiCd9pS7KTizf5v1wi18gvB6ZaHri5zBcXqydKQO/s1600/IMG_5795.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">Last shot:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjsEfYPeH3iAGuBcM18gFPa7uxx6ICfh8oy_Ut3AMeUgriXM4cwkVN6xAm2szr3exgMLuIPYARPyc_XCuIDuU3VchpuZeMpQU39NJZWwtr1LfAbUSbuzSK3xKp4JJ4KlziRWI6ohpPk5M-/s1600/IMG_5769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjsEfYPeH3iAGuBcM18gFPa7uxx6ICfh8oy_Ut3AMeUgriXM4cwkVN6xAm2szr3exgMLuIPYARPyc_XCuIDuU3VchpuZeMpQU39NJZWwtr1LfAbUSbuzSK3xKp4JJ4KlziRWI6ohpPk5M-/s1600/IMG_5769.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">I look forward to wearing these for years to come. The legs are wide enough to wear boots, so I know I'll wear them constantly this fall and winter. The waist is loose, but it doesn't show with a belt, and if I wear a top untucked, who is going to see the waistband? </span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">Final thoughts:</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">1. While these are my first pair of jeans (I'm incredibly pleased), they won't be my last.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">2. But it is time to move on and sew something else. Like maybe another winter coat.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">3. The Carpenter was so impressed with them, I have a feeling I'll be making him a pair soon.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">4. If you make jeans, use this denim. Seriously.</span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">5. The only way to learn how to make jeans is to make 'em. It's that simple. If you want to badly enough, you'll be able to do it, and enjoy the journey. You won't regret it!</span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-83410801933121261562014-09-04T19:16:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.591-08:00Making Jeans - Making Progress/McCalls 6610<span style="font-size: large;">Progress continues on the Jeans Project - my plan was to make a wearable muslin using <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6610-products-23003.php?page_id=96" target="_blank">McCalls 6610</a> and <a href="https://www.fabric.com/buy/et-201/organic-cotton-twill-tomato" target="_blank">organic cotton twill</a> from Fabric.com in red. I was excited about using McCalls 6610 because based on my comparisons with <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/08/a-very-promising-jeans-muslin-or-holy.html" target="_blank">Vogue's Calvin Klein</a> pattern, the McCalls pattern looked very promising.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I made a few changes, though, before I even cut out. Other bloggers/reviewers have noted that the rise on the McCalls 6610 is very high, and by comparing it to the Calvin Klein pattern, this appeared to be true. So I used the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern and shortened both the front and back pattern pieces by about a half inch. (Hint: don't do this unless you are actually petite.) And then I shaped the seat seam to mimic the Calvin Klein pattern since I like the fit.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I felt pretty confident of my changes which is usually a portent of things to come . . . The weekend before last I cut out and put together the back of the jeans and back pockets. On Labor Day, I picked it back up around 9:30 a.m. even though I was kinda tired and a little MS-y. Also, I could tell my head just wasn't in the game. But I had a free day, and I didn't want it to go to waste.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I should have listened to the universe, but I was feeling perversely stubborn that day. This is the first zipper fly that I have made that didn't turn out well. (Which is not McCalls' fault - I was all, <i>hey, I've got this.</i>) First, I did it wrong, which I didn't discover until the jeans were put together and I tried them on. Then, it became clear that my left side of the fly zip didn't complete cover the zipper, which is pretty much an epic fail. Finally, I topstitched the fly <i>four times </i>and it still looks like crap. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Once I got the waistband wrestled on this sucker there was only one thing I could do to get rid of the bad juju - I threw the jeans in the washer to get the evil out. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Last night I hemmed them and did the buttonhole. I put a regular button on rather than a jeans button because I wasn't sure if I was going to redo the waistband or not. I didn't sew on the belt loops for the same reason.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I wore them to work today because today was a "jeans day" to celebrate the kickoff of the NFL season. But I didn't get photos until I got home. So they are:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqKySIL1pvNmbXfbTWW_LnpoIYMAKQ12zPa0ehQnbGPOdGroVOdDrZJz6C0M33UNNGeEjw6AF6xeraIVcvz8wnTDKXWI_wnENaFoId5nMwdRu2cv422GMdGajuUcr-0x8qDZxyD1VkDWm/s1600/IMG_5726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhqKySIL1pvNmbXfbTWW_LnpoIYMAKQ12zPa0ehQnbGPOdGroVOdDrZJz6C0M33UNNGeEjw6AF6xeraIVcvz8wnTDKXWI_wnENaFoId5nMwdRu2cv422GMdGajuUcr-0x8qDZxyD1VkDWm/s1600/IMG_5726.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I had been wearing these all day, so they are seriously wrinkled. But here's the verdict: these jeans are too tight. By shortening the rise as if I was a petite, when I'm really not, I made the upper hip and waist too tight. If I had left well enough alone, they probably would have fit fine.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj63jH3dTwfku9pQs7tZcRj5y_kgyOyvTpCp7_2FirMNG85b-vXBPZDVoBZoazf7rFDjtRKya5tpX9GaLcd5hBFjxmvOW1eh-DeTImlF8bTjTTn8LzyOwg_rKzVenTKMItii7midBTmi9FX/s1600/IMG_5722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj63jH3dTwfku9pQs7tZcRj5y_kgyOyvTpCp7_2FirMNG85b-vXBPZDVoBZoazf7rFDjtRKya5tpX9GaLcd5hBFjxmvOW1eh-DeTImlF8bTjTTn8LzyOwg_rKzVenTKMItii7midBTmi9FX/s1600/IMG_5722.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">What I do like are the more narrow legs on this pattern than the Calvin Klein pattern. Here's a booty shot that shows the waistband too low and too tight:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_UWa6AytJR9jMw02wsmfPKoby7YHfF5zHaw4qWAw5u1MJNyErGCcQe_CrG5yrZ28D_ZzVnRskrAra3SVADNJvj5v0CZzVVDNfOMnp6pqv4hd3evZjMYvDHXU7PQXIv49iw4ljJFBr9UG/s1600/IMG_5724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_UWa6AytJR9jMw02wsmfPKoby7YHfF5zHaw4qWAw5u1MJNyErGCcQe_CrG5yrZ28D_ZzVnRskrAra3SVADNJvj5v0CZzVVDNfOMnp6pqv4hd3evZjMYvDHXU7PQXIv49iw4ljJFBr9UG/s1600/IMG_5724.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">Also, you can see that the back yokes aren't flat where they meet the waistband - the instructions have you "ease" the jeans into the waistband. I'm here to tell you that denim this heavy doesn't "ease". At all. For every pair of jeans I make from now on, I'll cut the waistband as long as it needs to be to avoid any easing. If that makes the waistband a little bigger, all the better - who wouldn't want a little extra room in the waist?</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Here's the shot that shows the waist too tight and my zipper exposed:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DWG5dSZycEfyxOH6cOQ-HjOI1crXb7aYGjGovpLNfbx7dphOisM5tcF7GFwveh9IynDwTT6SLWO-Jrun63pUGKkgLpgFCw0V93Ms-YnmuYcyrlFw-kv5orGdMlhG8-aqTT8F_pQeldcG/s1600/IMG_5725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DWG5dSZycEfyxOH6cOQ-HjOI1crXb7aYGjGovpLNfbx7dphOisM5tcF7GFwveh9IynDwTT6SLWO-Jrun63pUGKkgLpgFCw0V93Ms-YnmuYcyrlFw-kv5orGdMlhG8-aqTT8F_pQeldcG/s1600/IMG_5725.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">After wearing them all day, I won't be putting on any belt loops because I probably won't be wearing these jeans - they are just too tight and uncomfortable.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">As I mentioned, what I do like about the pattern is the width of the legs. The legs of the Calvin Klein pattern were too wide. I compared the two patterns and interestingly, the back pattern pieces are the same width. The difference is in the front pattern pieces - the front leg pattern piece of the McCalls pattern 6610 is much narrower. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So here are my choices for my next jeans:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">1) Make McCalls 6610 again, unaltered, which will probably fit reasonably well;</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">2) Combine the McCalls pattern and Calvin Klein pattern - maybe use the back pattern piece from the Calvin Klein pattern and the front from the McCalls pattern and see if that works; or</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">3) Do both. I can make as many pairs of jeans as I want.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Parting shots</b>: Anne got married this weekend! Here's a few photos I took:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbNjoK2f4IVoyg3VChk0hJ5AH0me6vbBhnSCXlC_I8EN1gFLrdr-143mg3PCdqeJOBXbBf9ATcZZoBHGpYPC7z_3cQeoAdvo5FHmivx0HcQz8Y9GaQpUq2moP3QlrwEJjxHiW-ePo5IFTt/s1600/IMG_5648+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbNjoK2f4IVoyg3VChk0hJ5AH0me6vbBhnSCXlC_I8EN1gFLrdr-143mg3PCdqeJOBXbBf9ATcZZoBHGpYPC7z_3cQeoAdvo5FHmivx0HcQz8Y9GaQpUq2moP3QlrwEJjxHiW-ePo5IFTt/s1600/IMG_5648+(2).JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/field_trips_in_fiber/2014/09/design-.html" target="_blank">Vicki's skirt</a> in action:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtpfZlOEFb76EMGZEb3DRtFKP4MIjOD_9o9fGdy7BJMY78-Cz5axlqZVvBnJYOEVsSGgQk7ANGkoXzID90cActh98KaTOUR4nGon02iIGDmvlFuEjFBNvoLBM6I2Nq0tr5vrm31ocxYUwr/s1600/IMG_5558+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtpfZlOEFb76EMGZEb3DRtFKP4MIjOD_9o9fGdy7BJMY78-Cz5axlqZVvBnJYOEVsSGgQk7ANGkoXzID90cActh98KaTOUR4nGon02iIGDmvlFuEjFBNvoLBM6I2Nq0tr5vrm31ocxYUwr/s1600/IMG_5558+(2).JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Anne and Vicki:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfDXCAfVhCxPAcrKxw_YFEZlB_CQzF7FI96AwHijyO6fgXCOZyT94ehg3wcPC3rlOI3dEYpBKpDACt3hMenVhivHeq5g7Gwyr7UE9qus9eBMP_N0ZUUrzuOnunx1g_DfGRy4c8l1MGeR_6/s1600/IMG_5572+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfDXCAfVhCxPAcrKxw_YFEZlB_CQzF7FI96AwHijyO6fgXCOZyT94ehg3wcPC3rlOI3dEYpBKpDACt3hMenVhivHeq5g7Gwyr7UE9qus9eBMP_N0ZUUrzuOnunx1g_DfGRy4c8l1MGeR_6/s1600/IMG_5572+(2).JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-48684562648883656342014-08-24T13:44:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.547-08:00A Very Promising Jeans Muslin, Or, Holy Calvin Klein! Vogue 2442<span style="font-size: large;">Holy Calvin Klein, y'all, I think I've found the Holy Gail of jeans patterns! Remember Brooke Shields and her famous Calvin Klein jean commercials? I don't because I was living out of the country from 1978 to 1981, but I've heard tales. And did you know that Vogue released a pattern in 1980 of Calvin Klein's jeans pattern? I didn't know that, but found this on Etsy.com one day in my effort to find a jeans pattern that is more in style with my 1980's college jeans that I am trying to recreate:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehhJTObFnqZIlysZq9YxwjpuASFDoEw10TxjRcer7iP4uCDupOCdZePp8Pqs7wBJAK0q_4jxVwC4N-arBYfivyG6KjJZTBeV2OL6K67H81sF1hyet8QvrE00lbHVnMoevVERcfTzztxWV/s1600/IMG_5512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehhJTObFnqZIlysZq9YxwjpuASFDoEw10TxjRcer7iP4uCDupOCdZePp8Pqs7wBJAK0q_4jxVwC4N-arBYfivyG6KjJZTBeV2OL6K67H81sF1hyet8QvrE00lbHVnMoevVERcfTzztxWV/s1600/IMG_5512.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">My research indicates that it was featured in Vogue Patterns March/April 1980 issue (the model's hair style certainly looks 1979). I went ahead and bought it because the current jeans patterns have the same fit as the ready-to-wear jeans of today - low rise and just uncomfortable all the way around. I figured if I'm trying to get my 1980s jeans back, maybe I need a pattern from 1980s.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I never owned a pair of Calvin Klein jeans. I've been a Levi's girl since I was 13. But this pattern seem to have the rise and seat shape I'm looking for. I bought a size 12, which matched my measurements, and found it to be uncut:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglwOJ_FGsSO6z4w_sKbJxg8cGhALifZikgxkkypsFd9Ps1Am41prbiGKamw3LVhIYCRAsSCTJAi1o8LKdYwXkA_it24cfbkmr_mJoePWDgt_inGcfORBqSBOs7WlLCeUIfaqZxRn2g8aTe/s1600/IMG_5514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglwOJ_FGsSO6z4w_sKbJxg8cGhALifZikgxkkypsFd9Ps1Am41prbiGKamw3LVhIYCRAsSCTJAi1o8LKdYwXkA_it24cfbkmr_mJoePWDgt_inGcfORBqSBOs7WlLCeUIfaqZxRn2g8aTe/s1600/IMG_5514.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Although I don't believe it has been unused. The tissue paper pattern had clearly been handled over the years - I suspect this is a sought-after pattern, although my internet searches have revealed no bloggers who have made jeans from this pattern. (I did find <a href="http://www.carmencitab.com/2011/07/calvin-klein-vogue-2442-sunny-skirt.html" target="_blank">CarmencitaB</a> who made the skirt, though. Merci beaucoup!)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I love the pattern. You can see that the seam allowances are marked. Yay. And interestingly, the skirt pattern pieces are completely separate from the jeans pattern pieces. I thought maybe the jeans and skirt would use the same waist pattern pieces or pockets, etc. Nope. Completely separate.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Here's the pattern piece for the famous Calvin Klein back pocket:</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTFnjWMa0tCZY3P7QxJD_yng2h-wlA0BlE3-4mtidK1JUIAHb7-N6-474e5OjyRbjdSbNIEN8BeyBelgtRD-Rb7XKDKfuGUf0YDljtp5gN_z-iQXJ2CM6dfbm1PfbAyfXFxBaow_Ao5WQC/s1600/IMG_5515.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTFnjWMa0tCZY3P7QxJD_yng2h-wlA0BlE3-4mtidK1JUIAHb7-N6-474e5OjyRbjdSbNIEN8BeyBelgtRD-Rb7XKDKfuGUf0YDljtp5gN_z-iQXJ2CM6dfbm1PfbAyfXFxBaow_Ao5WQC/s1600/IMG_5515.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Comparing this pattern to the patterns I have used for my prior muslins, I got pretty excited about this one - it looked like it had the fit and ease I was looking for. (I was so excited I actually trace the pattern, which I normally don't do!) I was tempted to jump right in and use my good jeans fabric and skip the muslin, but good sense prevailed. I wasn't happy about doing a muslin, but I made a deal with myself: I would use regular sewing thread and a jeans needle for the entire construction, rather than switching out with topstitching thread. I felt like I had enough practice topstitching away.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The instructions are great:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLZjwfEUFRzzVrNZT8rvz8I_t2fz0U6wqc8sV0hNw4_93ZhLewd71UUBdaACwAIUc65mTyPEqi0CZtTwWSwYRBekBoLG66rPHpaLhPzmJeKSpz75NqvlhT0pmQ9ziYKBvic96eYtMhvG9/s1600/IMG_5513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLZjwfEUFRzzVrNZT8rvz8I_t2fz0U6wqc8sV0hNw4_93ZhLewd71UUBdaACwAIUc65mTyPEqi0CZtTwWSwYRBekBoLG66rPHpaLhPzmJeKSpz75NqvlhT0pmQ9ziYKBvic96eYtMhvG9/s1600/IMG_5513.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Very clear, especially the fly instructions. The only thing weird is above; the instructions have you sew the side seams first, and then the inseam, while every other pants/jeans pattern or blog instructions have you do it the other way around. I did the inseams first.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I also took this opportunity to experiment and made one back pocket the Calvin Klein way, and the other back pocket the Levi's way to see which I liked better. I drafted the Levi's pocket piece from my college jeans:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GR1H9jkX6ULxCy_iKxgJhSGQdpV8wL3zjy1AW1RZXZ40j4ATR-CclWybwFjK8GtIhX1mO3iwoBCPd7cykDjFRd0XuIi6j-K_dXZzDDOtAdFepUuvbjfAOD-5I89t-KLeXeUOlxEyytAd/s1600/IMG_5527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GR1H9jkX6ULxCy_iKxgJhSGQdpV8wL3zjy1AW1RZXZ40j4ATR-CclWybwFjK8GtIhX1mO3iwoBCPd7cykDjFRd0XuIi6j-K_dXZzDDOtAdFepUuvbjfAOD-5I89t-KLeXeUOlxEyytAd/s1600/IMG_5527.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I made the pattern piece mostly by measurement and a ruler:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFutAZJiNZ2IYrvH9dzHvsGFej_CvJwhI_JYAt14OI51-GxOgzB_x8dIoSXRt717QXQ1anShccUX4MrObL7Pz_kLpoftQabqkcRsak9GQctg_CdG3_n1I2aohAyrQIk2dMgQGt97FOsP6/s1600/IMG_5528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFutAZJiNZ2IYrvH9dzHvsGFej_CvJwhI_JYAt14OI51-GxOgzB_x8dIoSXRt717QXQ1anShccUX4MrObL7Pz_kLpoftQabqkcRsak9GQctg_CdG3_n1I2aohAyrQIk2dMgQGt97FOsP6/s1600/IMG_5528.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">On the left is the back pocket in its finished size and on the right is the pattern piece with 5/8 inch seam allowances added.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Here it is compared to the Calvin Klein pocket:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmkjjdS51WV_7akrF5fXp_HRGqmv5b1Ji5zU4rArd6KwwwxcHF1TSBbfhdfKw2ny9YbNrL2hnOLJ6hEsqHi_7ckpWrpCBb7LgzfFt_U3zLHYiTr7WP7B00g-fFtLNmGGs0ye8VfYbE3q3f/s1600/IMG_5529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmkjjdS51WV_7akrF5fXp_HRGqmv5b1Ji5zU4rArd6KwwwxcHF1TSBbfhdfKw2ny9YbNrL2hnOLJ6hEsqHi_7ckpWrpCBb7LgzfFt_U3zLHYiTr7WP7B00g-fFtLNmGGs0ye8VfYbE3q3f/s1600/IMG_5529.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">You can see that the Calvin Klein pocket is more square/upright, while the Levi's pocket is more slanty (is that a word? Spellcheck says no). </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I used some of the leftover white bull denim I used on my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/08/the-jeans-project-style-arcs-sally-jean.html" target="_blank">jean skirt</a> for these jeans, while I used the grey twill from my Vogue skirt for the pockets:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRVNIADm2fyHcORS2z_B8mi7DcUB618dLkHlYSNDMCFH5AY08Z5gig0D1Lo3Ob0Mukswrad8nvLqY7c9nyYgI55SUVAMrkadJc58eLVtJE5ALGfTxIv0CasO61CWhwO03C5adKVJxJfsdc/s1600/IMG_5521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRVNIADm2fyHcORS2z_B8mi7DcUB618dLkHlYSNDMCFH5AY08Z5gig0D1Lo3Ob0Mukswrad8nvLqY7c9nyYgI55SUVAMrkadJc58eLVtJE5ALGfTxIv0CasO61CWhwO03C5adKVJxJfsdc/s1600/IMG_5521.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The topstitching is hard to see since I only used regular thread on this muslin, but it gave me the general idea. Calvin Klein:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTSqgt7iyhiNR1wActcJVAFEjmjDSML01uZZQ_WjLahCY60Wqs42x7Lr76Unluq7e_1pyvHOnLNtJSusYeZjrHlzcr175BM2Qq2XJZP9GlksZcBZHVhoETf_wA5DkPRM1u9JZA3HxR3JgA/s1600/IMG_5522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTSqgt7iyhiNR1wActcJVAFEjmjDSML01uZZQ_WjLahCY60Wqs42x7Lr76Unluq7e_1pyvHOnLNtJSusYeZjrHlzcr175BM2Qq2XJZP9GlksZcBZHVhoETf_wA5DkPRM1u9JZA3HxR3JgA/s1600/IMG_5522.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Levi's:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIxWTWljyGnmcAkQHbkoUxawxHxXXu0SfV3M8tD11kXUcYKl8U0jzBEfFIOCgm0zzzVhdzfWTd4QPAlpQQUuFWwNeMj87tqCEjEh0vHI6YMtGts_ionPCyWB_6k2pq2Vmk8168V7vEzWLn/s1600/IMG_5523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIxWTWljyGnmcAkQHbkoUxawxHxXXu0SfV3M8tD11kXUcYKl8U0jzBEfFIOCgm0zzzVhdzfWTd4QPAlpQQUuFWwNeMj87tqCEjEh0vHI6YMtGts_ionPCyWB_6k2pq2Vmk8168V7vEzWLn/s1600/IMG_5523.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The real test though was the try-on. As soon I put them on my body said, "Ahhhhhhh!" This was the fit I remember:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0qZKVomy0QnNGD70ohvBUEWm4gxB7lPO9HZqQC1AONCEEGybk1F_HMaXOCbuv64C-FNoX7hfRnTnAYdDkSkDC3Iu4KdF2JXnemuxSdiAiN2Io-BYQAPDpuluJba4MQ1MWAxP8Nic8tSX/s1600/IMG_5516.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0qZKVomy0QnNGD70ohvBUEWm4gxB7lPO9HZqQC1AONCEEGybk1F_HMaXOCbuv64C-FNoX7hfRnTnAYdDkSkDC3Iu4KdF2JXnemuxSdiAiN2Io-BYQAPDpuluJba4MQ1MWAxP8Nic8tSX/s1600/IMG_5516.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkl0Q0GAvPYxVSmpmZcU8QWh5uY3yUx7OV3bJap1WczJyVdO-8io1ybdOLV3CWokXEZkdiMAZdIO_vfzgTauU7U9UAWcB84Pewy5Jys71LqsMky8KPRZZqT_xqgWiCIMrUzZlTJYiSz83x/s1600/IMG_5517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkl0Q0GAvPYxVSmpmZcU8QWh5uY3yUx7OV3bJap1WczJyVdO-8io1ybdOLV3CWokXEZkdiMAZdIO_vfzgTauU7U9UAWcB84Pewy5Jys71LqsMky8KPRZZqT_xqgWiCIMrUzZlTJYiSz83x/s1600/IMG_5517.JPG" height="640" width="425" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggHH6mwtTAhYJ9Ozb5OPDEXTdQxco0-3FE9IwSsgK4y6pmHxlydqK4iH-0cfkpIX8Uy14dPB-63CAPSBCwfNvx3h0MHRITksiwO9ztO1-qX75-JAShaL6G4vhlGX_XXgi21NGqzAAOSvZu/s1600/IMG_5519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggHH6mwtTAhYJ9Ozb5OPDEXTdQxco0-3FE9IwSsgK4y6pmHxlydqK4iH-0cfkpIX8Uy14dPB-63CAPSBCwfNvx3h0MHRITksiwO9ztO1-qX75-JAShaL6G4vhlGX_XXgi21NGqzAAOSvZu/s1600/IMG_5519.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxI2gFpMn4C9VUCPffkF9RqnbJrs9X3MNCAqdFm4sRAFKrYbg-AhakHQeddOzxzPSfmCtxlVo7FxY5TOpnH780OE9ffHrBM_Y-ia3tXj9G71falZcd4-zbhiR7bkjzWtRGmf7Ob0k6Lg7B/s1600/IMG_5520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxI2gFpMn4C9VUCPffkF9RqnbJrs9X3MNCAqdFm4sRAFKrYbg-AhakHQeddOzxzPSfmCtxlVo7FxY5TOpnH780OE9ffHrBM_Y-ia3tXj9G71falZcd4-zbhiR7bkjzWtRGmf7Ob0k6Lg7B/s1600/IMG_5520.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">It's not perfect, of course, but the seat curve is extremely comfortable, and what I am looking for. Changes I want to make: 1) lower the rise in the front to be just below the belly button (I found out how to make this alteration <a href="http://cationdesigns.blogspot.com/2013/09/pants-pattern-alterations.html" target="_blank">here</a>); and 2) and I need to narrow the thighs (which I haven't quite figured out how to achieve yet other than to find other patterns with a closer fit and frankenpattern the whole she-bang).</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Here's the back which shows the excess fabric in the back thigh area that needs to be eliminated:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9sTl224TKmBUy2h6ypQDned_hSlUSjkAvYxqU2vN-5PTHjxjNmldV-iRg_GAsp2-JUY3FIV2wF_bzm-YmArVxDxgWRanrHFF-8dd59IaVAFe7ZGwNfNdYQZE0sgreNUk4nBOp0Ws62q6q/s1600/IMG_5533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9sTl224TKmBUy2h6ypQDned_hSlUSjkAvYxqU2vN-5PTHjxjNmldV-iRg_GAsp2-JUY3FIV2wF_bzm-YmArVxDxgWRanrHFF-8dd59IaVAFe7ZGwNfNdYQZE0sgreNUk4nBOp0Ws62q6q/s1600/IMG_5533.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5H47pcelJHmLBxio62KeUGRAM50-XbQno-cQ_4K97-QpzvFaC6EsOPT3DnkcTyR1xOwqekj5cVwvnOZw4DR6HADB44TI8UWMvmjzYkOzG9xoThuABYec_DsaceTC4gFliFy2GpxT-pVDQ/s1600/IMG_5536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5H47pcelJHmLBxio62KeUGRAM50-XbQno-cQ_4K97-QpzvFaC6EsOPT3DnkcTyR1xOwqekj5cVwvnOZw4DR6HADB44TI8UWMvmjzYkOzG9xoThuABYec_DsaceTC4gFliFy2GpxT-pVDQ/s1600/IMG_5536.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEjVEhlZuZy39CUZzWzsyHca_PZDYPNrxu2DEouSg5ODMHO363uosT4MBG5TavlQGWJkz-ba5SkBDx3NPEy4P-KsKRhapDyb5Vyo5BqnF7cR3-PA9fKpyWn3Pwrv_-vhY9x5V0TXGs70Tp/s1600/IMG_5537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEjVEhlZuZy39CUZzWzsyHca_PZDYPNrxu2DEouSg5ODMHO363uosT4MBG5TavlQGWJkz-ba5SkBDx3NPEy4P-KsKRhapDyb5Vyo5BqnF7cR3-PA9fKpyWn3Pwrv_-vhY9x5V0TXGs70Tp/s1600/IMG_5537.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">If anyone has any ideas how to achieve this, I'm all ears! You can see that I made the waistband from some blue denim fabric, leftover from another muslin. The pattern comes with a contoured waistband, but an examination of my college Levis shows that they were made with just a long rectangle of fabric cut on the crosswise grain with no interfacing. So I gave it a try, and I like it. The crosswise grain has more stretch (and who doesn't like stretch in the waistband?) and the crosswise grain is less likely to shrink (unlike the lengthwise grain, which many pants patterns use).</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I also took this opportunity to put in a real metal jean zipper, my first. It was long and I just sewed over it while sewing on the waistband. I didn't break a needle, but I probably just got lucky.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">You can see I've turned up the length - these jeans finish 33 1/4 inches long, which is way long for me and I have pretty long legs, as most of my height is in my legs, not my torso.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So as pleased as I am with this muslin, you would think I would go about making my pattern changes and get on with making the real jeans. You would be wrong. I'm taking a detour and making some jeans from McCall's 6610 because I am crazy. I guess I want to see if there are aspects of this pattern that I like that I can incorporate into my final real jeans. The one difference is that I am making a wearable muslin of <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6610-products-23003.php?page_id=96" target="_blank">McCalls 6610</a>, rather than a real muslin, because sometimes you just have to make something you can really wear. I making them in a red twill. More to come on that.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">One tip I want to share for topstitching jeans, and it's not my tip, but I wanted to pass it along. Somewhere, in all my jeans research, I read that when you are using topstitching thread you should tighten your upper thread tension, which sounds backwards. Logically, it sounds like you should loosen your tension with a thicker thread. I read (and I'm sorry I can't remember who gave this advice so I can give credit where credit is due) that you should adjust your tension from a 4 on your Bernina to 7. I tried it and it worked:</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOGjGCn2zFlEUZaRAaHi5tl9FjVnm28jskaXmLcpwZLN_z9Gkt2e5vmo6Do6Vtb5Epcv7B5laXwvpZMc4h-v1V6eXMjNfeL7XwkKW-YJaN-_1KAaZgB4jMD5_PfPmUyhYrU6N2NPHisIxO/s1600/IMG_5509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOGjGCn2zFlEUZaRAaHi5tl9FjVnm28jskaXmLcpwZLN_z9Gkt2e5vmo6Do6Vtb5Epcv7B5laXwvpZMc4h-v1V6eXMjNfeL7XwkKW-YJaN-_1KAaZgB4jMD5_PfPmUyhYrU6N2NPHisIxO/s1600/IMG_5509.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The bottom stitching on the pocket illustrates the tension set at 4 on the wrong of your fabric. The top line illustrates tighter tension set at 7. Here's a close up - you can see how much better the tension is when it is tighter:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh23ujSZBbzyw7lnqATxLWtYyk3SmgPooA_0rpNGFbxRfi0IMJZYPmSgeTX3pEu9SI3DpEUZdbboKU1_OnZreXdjZTsinia6vcHfd0Z_7t6HaztVJ5KrMF9ewcfDRDudMrgsyvyStf05Zmc/s1600/IMG_5510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh23ujSZBbzyw7lnqATxLWtYyk3SmgPooA_0rpNGFbxRfi0IMJZYPmSgeTX3pEu9SI3DpEUZdbboKU1_OnZreXdjZTsinia6vcHfd0Z_7t6HaztVJ5KrMF9ewcfDRDudMrgsyvyStf05Zmc/s1600/IMG_5510.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Here's the finished pocket on the right side with proper topstitching thread and tension:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA-zp17hqDkQU64u2e54xAXvEggeDrJI0QHa1A1opuQJHIiEVZNSnaY3L4o2IRsyD0OZVtSO1izSN-UKmc8JVdJxn3iC6iYXFg4ixdsyBPWoCXsAABNHguLq3mFL2GfbYMSZ_CuHFqZmTQ/s1600/IMG_5511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA-zp17hqDkQU64u2e54xAXvEggeDrJI0QHa1A1opuQJHIiEVZNSnaY3L4o2IRsyD0OZVtSO1izSN-UKmc8JVdJxn3iC6iYXFg4ixdsyBPWoCXsAABNHguLq3mFL2GfbYMSZ_CuHFqZmTQ/s1600/IMG_5511.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-size: large;">(Again, I used topstiching thread on top and regular thread in the bobbin, with the tension set at 7.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Parting Shots: </b>The Carpenter got bored taking regular photos and felt we should be more "arty". I can't say we succeeded:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-VLAQMSfni0QFrFMKEbOwOAklpBTaO7xLG3JJwoSPVPGm0sI4WlI6GeIO42JW9_o7LEHCZTlONivJXId5B6MD5MFiDJgan9z-Spqjb9AVxYfhvpD7RgNoPFppzievf3qqFLcqgtfTGkNL/s1600/IMG_5540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-VLAQMSfni0QFrFMKEbOwOAklpBTaO7xLG3JJwoSPVPGm0sI4WlI6GeIO42JW9_o7LEHCZTlONivJXId5B6MD5MFiDJgan9z-Spqjb9AVxYfhvpD7RgNoPFppzievf3qqFLcqgtfTGkNL/s1600/IMG_5540.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYGiz1PXeelEsWpKO8fbuHO7uDroQjN3USL-2o4OLD6ZkJD0MZ2b7YQoQqt-5zz6SbPJN6-4nsoaWpYR0L8UskFOUSuFcDjv5xE30uzD2hi1ULkc4AOqOPz89WhVSCA_JLBkIqGW0bcW84/s1600/IMG_5542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYGiz1PXeelEsWpKO8fbuHO7uDroQjN3USL-2o4OLD6ZkJD0MZ2b7YQoQqt-5zz6SbPJN6-4nsoaWpYR0L8UskFOUSuFcDjv5xE30uzD2hi1ULkc4AOqOPz89WhVSCA_JLBkIqGW0bcW84/s1600/IMG_5542.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbgXKbV2OaQ9Mqbtx5Ve1A7tPZS_uHtZCubiZ1rAF2TmYk6Wd0rJtoe2V3SmJJl_qankec3hDlrOtKk-psy0B1-xv8H5fPpC1h2xhsCnt3Qvi2115rurRiR63fuLtCZu6P3tQdyHptB7oX/s1600/IMG_5538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbgXKbV2OaQ9Mqbtx5Ve1A7tPZS_uHtZCubiZ1rAF2TmYk6Wd0rJtoe2V3SmJJl_qankec3hDlrOtKk-psy0B1-xv8H5fPpC1h2xhsCnt3Qvi2115rurRiR63fuLtCZu6P3tQdyHptB7oX/s1600/IMG_5538.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">P.S. I'm trying not to freak out about how huge my ass looks in these photos . . .</span><br /><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-66230528562285500972014-08-09T13:00:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.558-08:00The Jeans Project - Style Arc's Sally Jean Skirt<span style="font-size: large;">The jeans saga continues! My sewing goal is to make my own pair of well fitting, non-low rise, 100% cotton jeans of quality heavy denim. I've been flagging a bit, for various reasons, but achieved more progress today than I expected: I finished a jean skirt.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Why a skirt instead of a pair of jeans? Well, for a couple of reasons. First, I was tired of making a muslins; I wanted to make something I could actually wear and a skirt doesn't take as much fitting as actual jeans. Second, Style Arc, an Australian company, has several jeans patterns that look like contenders, but I had never used any of their patterns before and a skirt looked like a painless introduction to their line. Third, I really liked the styling of their <a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=3&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=473&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=43" target="_blank">Sally Jean Skirt</a>:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ2CHAm_cgc-re1d0GyNKyZ4YIm-mW5oB5ND709poZiyy-hBRpfAMptKv39okc_IGTx9tbX7Vjq0HqKz2bErMyOQKT0wI6dLan5llrPQUIQ6PNcZx6Sy7leb2hiELj3t5CP6T1gaEkoP_Q/s1600/IMG_5502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ2CHAm_cgc-re1d0GyNKyZ4YIm-mW5oB5ND709poZiyy-hBRpfAMptKv39okc_IGTx9tbX7Vjq0HqKz2bErMyOQKT0wI6dLan5llrPQUIQ6PNcZx6Sy7leb2hiELj3t5CP6T1gaEkoP_Q/s1600/IMG_5502.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The skirt has all the classic details of a jean skirt, and is slightly A-line - exactly what I love. This looked like a good pattern to use all I had learned on the muslins - topstitching, fly zipper, pockets, etc.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I've never made anything from a Style Arc pattern before, although I bought a dress pattern from them years ago (which I never made up and now I can't find). <a href="http://blog.gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Ann</a> is very high on them as a pattern company for making well drafted patterns that look like ready-to-wear clothes. One of the most important things about Style Arc is that when you order a pattern, it only comes in one size, rather than in multi-sizes which most sewers are used to.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I ordered a size 10 based on my measurements, and based on the fact that Ann uses the same size (I use the same size as she does in other pattern lines, so it was a good guess). Vintage patterns used to be sold this way - you only got one size with each pattern. However, one of the advantages of vintage patterns in one size is that they usually came with the pattern pieces already cut out. Not so for Style Arc. Even though you only get one size, you have to cut out the pattern pieces. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">OK, no big deal. But the instructions, or lack there of, <i>was </i>a big deal. Here are the instructions:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_VYIB_q-zQwotUxJ3Gp4AdwkIZTKeBCecvp4wH3_fPBBP92mWrHvcaVdImLswoIqTfu4eHNWwPSSa-MWCzscgrdrlIbYIUf1FIg7cFQDZku4gKoVPBWQ9hNcatnCY3zIN8OOOpTePWj9/s1600/IMG_5503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS_VYIB_q-zQwotUxJ3Gp4AdwkIZTKeBCecvp4wH3_fPBBP92mWrHvcaVdImLswoIqTfu4eHNWwPSSa-MWCzscgrdrlIbYIUf1FIg7cFQDZku4gKoVPBWQ9hNcatnCY3zIN8OOOpTePWj9/s1600/IMG_5503.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Yep, that's it. One small page of tersely worded instructions. I note that Style Arc's website rated this pattern as "challenging". Given that this is a skirt, I would say the only reason this jean skirt would rate as "challenging" would be the lack of clear, proper instructions that modern sewers expect. If they had provided the type of instructions the Big Four provide, with diagrams for each step, there is no reason an intermediate sewer couldn't sew this without much fuss.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The pattern did include additional information on how to insert the fly zipper:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_fqoPjqR0KXAfSGgVUc7ReOPuhcJGFkZXxkCM-6Huw3s6fdoTeYUCSfvwJDzDhSAqAYx4JuD_gpmTJDDKWi2p0YAE8JdjbxE27GHYYk-ldhAfzXibdKi1XXYMqZhcDZ2GCcP_CEUMggL/s1600/IMG_5504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_fqoPjqR0KXAfSGgVUc7ReOPuhcJGFkZXxkCM-6Huw3s6fdoTeYUCSfvwJDzDhSAqAYx4JuD_gpmTJDDKWi2p0YAE8JdjbxE27GHYYk-ldhAfzXibdKi1XXYMqZhcDZ2GCcP_CEUMggL/s1600/IMG_5504.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">They look like Egyptian hieroglyphics and just as indecipherable. I end up using the fly zipper instructions from Butterick 5682, which was my very first jeans muslin. I have found they are the best and most clear for inserting a fly zip, and I think I'm going to have to copy them and tack them up on my wall for future reference!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I used a <a href="https://www.fabric.com/buy/el-300/10-oz-bull-denim-white" target="_blank">white bull denim</a> from fabric.com. I had bought this fabric previously for muslin purposes because it was 100% cotton, it was 10 oz in weight, and it was reasonably priced. I didn't know what "bull denim" was but research revealed that it is solid colored twill denim where the threads used to weave the denim are all the same color, as opposed to classic denim, where some of the threads are white and some are dyed indigo blue. (Just so you know).</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I thought a white jean skirt would be classic for summer, and by using white topstitching thread, I wouldn't have to stress about whether my stitching was perfect or not.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Cutting out was no problem. The pattern called for different seam allowances in different areas, but mostly required a 3/8 seam allowance, which precluded any real flat-felled seams, so I went with mock-felled ones. I used a size 16 needle, jeans thread for the seams, and topstitching thread for my topstitching. All of my topstitching was done with a stitch length set at 4 on my Bernina. I found that my topstitching looked best with jeans thread in the bobbin, and the topstitching thread only in the needle.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVBEEGmoNC1bb2BxAWZVBrGmsjPnhksLmV-GcknFnbnZCiXoTyQMtUlQjVLXmLI5O0f-fnp_JVzjK0TiPgZNTfNkGdABH0vjlJKwuGBPqIRWeEXlwDQu1QQQtmu3r7QWogH4sVuCp8wu4S/s1600/IMG_5507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVBEEGmoNC1bb2BxAWZVBrGmsjPnhksLmV-GcknFnbnZCiXoTyQMtUlQjVLXmLI5O0f-fnp_JVzjK0TiPgZNTfNkGdABH0vjlJKwuGBPqIRWeEXlwDQu1QQQtmu3r7QWogH4sVuCp8wu4S/s1600/IMG_5507.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The pattern pieces went together beautifully, but thank God I had learned how to do jeans pockets from prior muslins, particularly Kwik Sew 3193, or I would have never figured it out. For my pocket bags, I used white oxford cotton from an old button down shirt. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Everything was going along pretty well, until I tried to make the buttonhole in the waistband. Berninas are known for their excellent buttonholes but I think mine got flumfloxed by all the denim layers. It wasn't working, and I ended up ripping out the buttonhole - twice. So I skipped that part, and went on to the belt loops - nope, my Bernina wasn't having any of that either. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I gave up, and went over to Vicki's and used her new Brother Laura Ashley which has this thingy-ma-bob that automatically measures your button and stitches your buttonhole to the correct length. Awesome. It made a fantastic keyhole buttonhole in my waistband and now I want the Laura Ashley so badly, I can taste it. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">But Vicki's machine still couldn't handle my belt loops - I got three on but in a very haphazard fashion - so I decided my belt loop technique was probably the problem. I had too many layers for either sewing machine to handle.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">(And by the way, while the instructions tell you to sew the belt loops where indicated, no where on the pattern pieces are there any markings for belt loops. I ended up pulling out various Levis I own and figuring it out.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBRmzO1762LUNcaXVL63XJkxbTwOSlnV05ZJHqSwn7IYQtlUQVBqT5V_vGlkksnTaLyhZ0DnuIBP706uHU2qb1L3Kz1UNBTYSywwxTZllTzKxoHBQOwNsgNSRXWcfSr6EZ4rfN_wDDCt7U/s1600/IMG_5505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBRmzO1762LUNcaXVL63XJkxbTwOSlnV05ZJHqSwn7IYQtlUQVBqT5V_vGlkksnTaLyhZ0DnuIBP706uHU2qb1L3Kz1UNBTYSywwxTZllTzKxoHBQOwNsgNSRXWcfSr6EZ4rfN_wDDCt7U/s1600/IMG_5505.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So that is where my jean skirt sat for several weeks. Things I still needed to do: attach the jean button which I had ordered from <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/category/tutorials/" target="_blank">Taylor Tailor</a>, make less bulky belt loops and attach them, and hem the skirt. This morning, I picked up the jean button and read Taylor's instructions, and decided this was a job for The Carpenter. I was able to get the nail through the waistband in the exact spot I wanted the button to go, and then The Carpenter nailed the button on, wacking it from the wrong side of the waistband until the jean button was attached and did not turn. After all my worrying about this step, it ended up being the easiest part of the whole project!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndIeMszH_NfarzSZjz01wicaPAeKn_0w1fyL1zXKfTE2aEZi9WUT9FHQOgXhJQIYeeJNGB22jNrkH-5qmYyOzesJVUdcPYE19maWjSs3SZ8qwQKnm2ddvTfEApyYVZGbFDGe-1Wm_fy_z/s1600/IMG_5506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhndIeMszH_NfarzSZjz01wicaPAeKn_0w1fyL1zXKfTE2aEZi9WUT9FHQOgXhJQIYeeJNGB22jNrkH-5qmYyOzesJVUdcPYE19maWjSs3SZ8qwQKnm2ddvTfEApyYVZGbFDGe-1Wm_fy_z/s1600/IMG_5506.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Then I made two new belt loops, where I cut a strip of the denim 3 times the width I wanted the belt loops to be, and folded it in thirds, and topstiched. Voila - easier than the original belt loops, and less bulky. My Bernina sewed them on (I only had the two left in front to do) like a boss, so any problems previously was my error, not the machine's.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Next, since I was on a roll, I put in the hem. The skirt called for a 3/4 inch hem, but that wasn't going to be above my knee - I ended up putting in a 2 inch hem and topstitching 1 inch from the skirt edge. And I was done. Before noon. Here's the finished skirt:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJq6-DujjACp4bbU_6bVp3sh3JUwOtjDvcn9aL_0hew-vvEeNc-TWwld1HJiEYSXL1_78Sj3gjx34mcf9Wcnk_yqViKUFtLrT20dqyl8MP11D5zOgvCYEIrzsusgXJshCsYc-0ZcG36EiZ/s1600/IMG_5498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJq6-DujjACp4bbU_6bVp3sh3JUwOtjDvcn9aL_0hew-vvEeNc-TWwld1HJiEYSXL1_78Sj3gjx34mcf9Wcnk_yqViKUFtLrT20dqyl8MP11D5zOgvCYEIrzsusgXJshCsYc-0ZcG36EiZ/s1600/IMG_5498.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">It's a real jean skirt, y'all. Here's the back:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxgiKmKAwpPzMAfrJKOxHHoJG8n330whWKcP3TpuuIJ0BFGYOOtcN7EXhQwN7QN1dUmsJyF_rs-BfSBlhFGlLqXLjY1-olzj-TEUpdP8-Rp0zaXWl8-WbhcVzf1h64vPr2hZ7JOjsN7wJG/s1600/IMG_5500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxgiKmKAwpPzMAfrJKOxHHoJG8n330whWKcP3TpuuIJ0BFGYOOtcN7EXhQwN7QN1dUmsJyF_rs-BfSBlhFGlLqXLjY1-olzj-TEUpdP8-Rp0zaXWl8-WbhcVzf1h64vPr2hZ7JOjsN7wJG/s1600/IMG_5500.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">What I like about this skirt is that the back waist hits at your real waist, while the front waist is lower, a little below your belly button, which is how I like my jeans to fit. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I didn't put any fancy topstiching on the back pockets for the simple reason that I forgot:</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLMIdIw4hnRTOKUKd1zncEI9Lm5NPLOIW3ZM-TU7yyfaT36IK4U_A80i78LtF5MUVH03xIIGj9noWKdB7Xwtca-qv3AXc0tgPpf-Tm-PnKmDluVXNMjOUmOT2jAVAUfkH9ussn5-SH_-4C/s1600/IMG_5508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLMIdIw4hnRTOKUKd1zncEI9Lm5NPLOIW3ZM-TU7yyfaT36IK4U_A80i78LtF5MUVH03xIIGj9noWKdB7Xwtca-qv3AXc0tgPpf-Tm-PnKmDluVXNMjOUmOT2jAVAUfkH9ussn5-SH_-4C/s1600/IMG_5508.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I didn't use rivets on the pockets because I didn't want the stress of making holes in my skirt after all the work of making this skirt! Plus, I think the white skirt looks fine without them.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The skirt fits great. I mean, there is nothing about it I would change and I would even be willing to make this pattern in "real" denim and proud to wear it. While I was making it, the lack of clear instructions made me eliminate the possibility of using any of Style Arc's jeans patterns, but now that the skirt is done, and looks so ready to wear, I might have to give Style Arc another look!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I'm getting closer to my jeans reality. One issue I still haven't dealt with: using a real metal jeans zipper. On this skirt, I used a regular nylon zipper. My concern with a metal zipper is that sewing over the teeth is probably going to break a needle. I need to figure out how you shorten a jeans zipper or sew over it in the waistband without breaking a needle. (I think it involves pliers and pulling the teeth out one by one.) More research.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And more fitting muslins need to be done. But at least now I have a finish that has gotten me closer to the goal!</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-63913760870838955192014-07-27T12:50:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.554-08:00A Re-Fashion Experiment & Kwik Sew 2976<span style="font-size: large;">Recently, I went through my closet and did what you are supposed to do - pull out everything you haven't worn in a year. I generally oppose this approach because I'm an emotional clothes hoarder - I'll keep something I'm not wearing if I just have really good memories of wearing it. (Case in point: my college jeans.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Now this clear out did not include all the clothes I own. It didn't even include all the clothes I had in my closet. It only included the clothes hanging up in my closet. I counted approximately 160 items. By eliminating everything I hadn't worn in a year, I removed 53 garments. O.K., I confess, I didn't get rid of them all; I actually returned 28 garments back to the closet because I wasn't ready to part with them. But I did manage to give 25 away (11 of which were made by me). By my math skills (which are admittedly poor), I figure I gave away 22% of my hanging stuff.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Out of pure curiosity, I counted how many skirts I own. Forty-six. Wow. Of those 46, 17 were store bought and 29 were made by me. Wow again. That's a whole lot of skirts. I'm not certain anyone needs 46 skirts.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">What did I learn from this exercise? I have plenty of clothes. I don't really need more. But my problem is that clothes making is my hobby, so what am I to do? Giving them away is the answer, of course, but in addition to emotional clothes hoarding, I hate to give away something I've made because of what it really is: a muslin. Let's say I make a dress. Let's say I love it. Let's say that after 4 or 5 years, I'm not wearing it anymore, but I want to make another one with new fabulous fabric. I'm going to want to try on that old dress to see how it fits - do I need more room in the waist? (Rarely does anyone need <i>less.</i>) What size seam allowances did I use? How did I finish the armholes? Etc.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So I've decided to approach my garment making in the future as more of an experimental exercise rather than a I've-got-to-sew-this-because-I-need-something-to-wear. I keep thinking I'm clothes poor, when I'm really not.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">One of those experiments that I read a lot about but haven't actually tried is re-fashioning a garment from one thing into something else. I'm not normally one for re-fashioning a garment, although I admire those who do; I prefer to start with a completely clean slate on a project because re-fashioning is dangerously close to altering or even mending. (Shudder)<shudder></shudder></span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I got inspired though, because we have a nice <a href="http://hopecentral.com/hope-thrift/" target="_blank">thrift store</a> nearby, and I wanted to see if I could take a man's shirt and make something of it. Here it is: a high-end Brooks Brothers oxford shirt that I got for $ 3.00:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJWzvDeDixaGrhm0yab-kUaB2g09DotyHF9MpL6bTa7ONCGpPuPBd3nP0w6u5ZkvIcu3s2BiT0g0eGGQSok0O2IvrVivKAcARhetGvWr048x-1knK6bouS_KEFpgWZGk12Bo3oG_j6Hbl/s1600/IMG_5482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJWzvDeDixaGrhm0yab-kUaB2g09DotyHF9MpL6bTa7ONCGpPuPBd3nP0w6u5ZkvIcu3s2BiT0g0eGGQSok0O2IvrVivKAcARhetGvWr048x-1knK6bouS_KEFpgWZGk12Bo3oG_j6Hbl/s1600/IMG_5482.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I decided the bigger, the better - this one is a size 17:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvGX8y4D-R0q8m8lx5p2Fcn064CScnvB2qXezWM21DgCx9eD-oPJQdLz2ZWjqRefn1J9amYkd9T29bRYpwlhMPVeYg7EiHLQVlP1ebi44ToNmBtmm0aue6uP_17Bvka9P1_olp0zMvr-x/s1600/IMG_5483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvGX8y4D-R0q8m8lx5p2Fcn064CScnvB2qXezWM21DgCx9eD-oPJQdLz2ZWjqRefn1J9amYkd9T29bRYpwlhMPVeYg7EiHLQVlP1ebi44ToNmBtmm0aue6uP_17Bvka9P1_olp0zMvr-x/s1600/IMG_5483.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">The fabric was excellent quality, and the only thing wrong with it was a little ring around the collar. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I doubted my ability to simply take the shirt and play around with it - I need a pattern. So I dug through the pattern stash and found Kwik Sew 2976:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7ITW_5TwGWPYgYyN5oVSDmXXH3Wd1smkAtfX_KdtPMFT4lFYFsZqVBAj7rSpWEDNWgD-Od7GeRYZoTHktgRZxUhbPZh4_gyAOllLPO-jAtyFGtMwZ3FCrKvXZ3eCIXeqpjONYqXXOKSe/s1600/IMG_5492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7ITW_5TwGWPYgYyN5oVSDmXXH3Wd1smkAtfX_KdtPMFT4lFYFsZqVBAj7rSpWEDNWgD-Od7GeRYZoTHktgRZxUhbPZh4_gyAOllLPO-jAtyFGtMwZ3FCrKvXZ3eCIXeqpjONYqXXOKSe/s1600/IMG_5492.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I felt like I could make this work - the pattern doesn't take much fabric, so I wouldn't need any more than the button down I had purchased. It also had the button front and I wanted to see if I could use the button placket and buttons on the existing shirt for my new shirt. I could and I did.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So I went from this:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJWzvDeDixaGrhm0yab-kUaB2g09DotyHF9MpL6bTa7ONCGpPuPBd3nP0w6u5ZkvIcu3s2BiT0g0eGGQSok0O2IvrVivKAcARhetGvWr048x-1knK6bouS_KEFpgWZGk12Bo3oG_j6Hbl/s1600/IMG_5482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJWzvDeDixaGrhm0yab-kUaB2g09DotyHF9MpL6bTa7ONCGpPuPBd3nP0w6u5ZkvIcu3s2BiT0g0eGGQSok0O2IvrVivKAcARhetGvWr048x-1knK6bouS_KEFpgWZGk12Bo3oG_j6Hbl/s1600/IMG_5482.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">To thi</span><span style="font-size: large;">s: </span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8aG7f7za4x_ZlrS4jl8kaoom9hoDqZwnxfd_3977msqbXOY3T46mQXBS7uxCfN2IGaKB_jG7zUpVaykdUyFT6UKNFNcofsyy7rCOTWUgxJquCSj5SfsjaYVZVpstEFbtMF5VvTdabUzom/s1600/IMG_5494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8aG7f7za4x_ZlrS4jl8kaoom9hoDqZwnxfd_3977msqbXOY3T46mQXBS7uxCfN2IGaKB_jG7zUpVaykdUyFT6UKNFNcofsyy7rCOTWUgxJquCSj5SfsjaYVZVpstEFbtMF5VvTdabUzom/s1600/IMG_5494.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Here I am in it:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gieZnq4PeTlRcPR-7EW9JxbvB_XMaEp5XMRKPMbacPOd6KWMDcadVcb4idaSLj_z1oqyygHGCwZ-RDqPpTHFB2zJ6T0tIvvirlQu6PWGEv8Bgbp8yGNC6UMo9zCYGgPRLbCkh3HRn1-Q/s1600/IMG_5486+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gieZnq4PeTlRcPR-7EW9JxbvB_XMaEp5XMRKPMbacPOd6KWMDcadVcb4idaSLj_z1oqyygHGCwZ-RDqPpTHFB2zJ6T0tIvvirlQu6PWGEv8Bgbp8yGNC6UMo9zCYGgPRLbCkh3HRn1-Q/s1600/IMG_5486+%25282%2529.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">Frankly, it turned out better than I expected. To make sure the buttons and buttonholes matched up, I cut out the shirt with the original shirt buttoned up. I laid the front pattern piece with the center front line down the center of the buttons and cut out the left side. Then I flipped the pattern over, again lining up the center front line with the center of the buttons and cut out the right side. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I used french double bias binding cut from the shirt fabric to bind the neckline, but I used washed shantung white silk bias binding I had in my stash for the armholes; I found the oxford cloth to be rather thick for binding:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWORHLvGPxPSQbC3IPORys3fiQQofZt_M-Coe_LSsbGtKIxtvuneOCtY1t1ZSP1eajNspbCaTkZUTlMJP5wDkc_D8FIRxpO34hn4HuZ95Qt3N5nelo653k3tGcSdE3Lk072_BfoXvXt1W/s1600/IMG_5493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOWORHLvGPxPSQbC3IPORys3fiQQofZt_M-Coe_LSsbGtKIxtvuneOCtY1t1ZSP1eajNspbCaTkZUTlMJP5wDkc_D8FIRxpO34hn4HuZ95Qt3N5nelo653k3tGcSdE3Lk072_BfoXvXt1W/s1600/IMG_5493.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I put on a bias band at the bottom rather than a traditional hem, cutting the bias bands out of one of the sleeves of the man's shirt. I cut them 2 inches wide, folded the band in half to one inch and then sewed it on with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. It gives a little visual interest rather than a usual hem.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYDAUHsM-oz9mE_udNfx4NvVxf240MhSFQ3c5Oo3huJsmvfoHV_PXJCEP-adQMMFwt_zre3Jz2_E1A6BakRkm2YH05_vhWJc8_PG8np4PqOApX9Kkr84Pr1zcsqnA3UQ6FRu_Fmy1Ku6b/s1600/IMG_5488+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjYDAUHsM-oz9mE_udNfx4NvVxf240MhSFQ3c5Oo3huJsmvfoHV_PXJCEP-adQMMFwt_zre3Jz2_E1A6BakRkm2YH05_vhWJc8_PG8np4PqOApX9Kkr84Pr1zcsqnA3UQ6FRu_Fmy1Ku6b/s1600/IMG_5488+%25282%2529.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKx7aWTheXKCXLYBDpTsH9NhdRPu2vOTQ99Jd_fjAzHLe_aixKIcH_hSPXriJ53ta_w-HuNWDFyljvA2rNeVjA21UkuXJ6EFn1q2UuyQJGLpGs-ja6jzDo_bGRuhCn4faGoWzK6hJ8zNb3/s1600/IMG_5491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKx7aWTheXKCXLYBDpTsH9NhdRPu2vOTQ99Jd_fjAzHLe_aixKIcH_hSPXriJ53ta_w-HuNWDFyljvA2rNeVjA21UkuXJ6EFn1q2UuyQJGLpGs-ja6jzDo_bGRuhCn4faGoWzK6hJ8zNb3/s1600/IMG_5491.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">Here's a close up of the button placket:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOOUJZzcSxnK4zH8E17GQcqtbTc1V6jfBVe8NAFk6XXpzJ8uMkifuFyg18pTfKd_tAFCstd_uWJ8GowpQNR7o6UWdoN6AzAtmaVFhngM3_diK8u9_sdj2AGuN2tgpI6YQnLsEegMNs9CJj/s1600/IMG_5495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOOUJZzcSxnK4zH8E17GQcqtbTc1V6jfBVe8NAFk6XXpzJ8uMkifuFyg18pTfKd_tAFCstd_uWJ8GowpQNR7o6UWdoN6AzAtmaVFhngM3_diK8u9_sdj2AGuN2tgpI6YQnLsEegMNs9CJj/s1600/IMG_5495.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">For three dollars and one sewing day worth of work, it came out pretty well. Actually, the hardest part of the project was removing the front pocket - it was sewn on with tiny stitches and it took awhile to wrestle it off. You can still see the outline of the pocket on the front of the shirt, but I hope that fades a bit in the wash.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I also wasn't prepared for the left/over right buttoning when I tried it on for the first time - I had forgotten that men button their shirts left/over right rather than right/over left like women do. Only then did it occur to me that I could achieve the right/over left by cutting the shirt pattern pieces upside down to the original shirt. I'll keep that in mind if I ever do something like this again.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">All in all, a good experiment. I like the shirt, but don't love it, but that could change with the wearing. This shirt pattern from Kwik Sew isn't particularly close fitting or flattering, and I'm certain there are other patterns out there than can work better. But this pattern was a good place to start because it was "free", i.e. already in the stash.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-2265375264961686242014-07-20T13:48:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.519-08:00A Tale of Two Skirts<span style="font-size: large;">In between jeans muslins, I've been sewing skirts. And other things. But mostly skirts. Skirts are what I live in all summer because a skirt, a tee, and a pair of sandals is the coolest, most comfortable outfit in summer. I realized this week I don't even own a pair of shorts, and went to buy McCalls shorts pattern, number 6930, because it was on sale for $ 1.99, but Hancocks was out of stock. I'm actually wearing a pair of The Carpenter's cut off jeans today, but I digress.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">First up was <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-9569-misses-miss-petite-amazing-fit-skirt.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity 1541</a>, which is a basic straight skirt:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1TpXcasaI-64SodIDTx9QqfcSQnHiYBoEPQo93hDk7RDZzs2tTUwg0Qs55r7bYN9ikNtTvAmg7YfKxLmAaCQgAAN2OUjy-QrivMJ6H0oa3nalkptAiYvGCWWJa229bvepYVomDpfWXWPZ/s1600/IMG_5481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1TpXcasaI-64SodIDTx9QqfcSQnHiYBoEPQo93hDk7RDZzs2tTUwg0Qs55r7bYN9ikNtTvAmg7YfKxLmAaCQgAAN2OUjy-QrivMJ6H0oa3nalkptAiYvGCWWJa229bvepYVomDpfWXWPZ/s1600/IMG_5481.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">I've been meaning to try this one, not only for it's basic style, but also because it is part of Simplicity's "Amazing Fit" line and I wanted to find out if it was really "amazing". It also allowed me to use my leftover pink denim that I used for my latest incarnation of the Gertie pants. I made view B, the middle length version.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">One of the features of the pattern is that is allows different pattern pieces for different figures: the choices are slim, average, and curvy. Sort of the same concept as cup sizes for the bust that many patterns have these days. And the pattern sheet provides detailed instructions to determine what you are, but let me save you time: if you have less than 10 inches between your waist and hip measurements, you are slim; if you are 10 inches you are average; and if you are more than 10 inches you are "curvy".</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">More helpfully, the pattern provides detailed hip finished garment measurements for each size and each "fit". This allowed me to determine that, unlike most Big Four patterns, there wasn't a lot of ease in this skirt. My measurements put me as size 14, and since there are 10 inches between my waist and hip (depending on whether I've eaten pizza or not), I am "average", not surprisingly (I have pretty standard figure). The finished hip garment measurements for a size 14 average is 39, which seemed too tight, since that is my exact hip measurement, but this pattern is drafted with 1 inch side seam allowances for better fitting.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I went with it. The instructions seemed to create more work than necessary, but I reminded myself that I'm trying to do things new ways with new techniques so I don't get bored, so I did it their way. You are instructed to baste the front yoke to the front of the skirt, and then baste the back yokes to the backs of the skirt, and then baste the side seams with a 1 inch seam and try it on.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">My skirt was tight, like indecently tight. The pattern instructions have all kinds of fitting tips, like what to do if you side seam pulls to the front or to the back, but my side seams were completely straight, the thing was just too tight. The instructions tell you pull out some of your basting stitches and pin until you get a straight seam, but I couldn't remove </span><span style="font-size: large;">the side seams while standing in it, so I eyeballed it and decided the whole thing would fit better if I used 3/4 seams instead of 1 inch, thus giving me 1 inch more of ease in the skirt.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I basted the 3/4 inch side seam, and then removed the 1 inch seam and tried it on. Very good fit. But of course, by doing it this way, I then had to remove the 3/4 basted side seam, and remove the yokes from the skirt, sew the front and back yokes together for real, and then sew the side seams for real this time, using the 3/4 inch seam allowance. Then attach the yokes to the skirt. Whew. A lot of work for a simple skirt:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3aGRf6hyphenhyphen_Q7grZHt3ekUoRk1IhtG1JS3jlos52un6MmuiA2NiBzYpFGhwhXepwwNT_HtTzPh12TCuwVxbBEoZ32mESDrFb7hObpAwbj8Uy0qjtlfojO3Ls0-btbKvL0DcE699kMd3XJ-z/s1600/IMG_5459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3aGRf6hyphenhyphen_Q7grZHt3ekUoRk1IhtG1JS3jlos52un6MmuiA2NiBzYpFGhwhXepwwNT_HtTzPh12TCuwVxbBEoZ32mESDrFb7hObpAwbj8Uy0qjtlfojO3Ls0-btbKvL0DcE699kMd3XJ-z/s1600/IMG_5459.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7hpsnDN6oGqnVQNx5p5_2L9ze0vVoD_o3NZD0NrI0MHPjqY9r7kebwToRxQ1UuBfQlwgGQeT760DCkOALhM5DbJy-nfAmfjTdVxH8EVQH0XdTmBVbd792ZHziURy96fjBjS-jTy0dHUMG/s1600/IMG_5460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7hpsnDN6oGqnVQNx5p5_2L9ze0vVoD_o3NZD0NrI0MHPjqY9r7kebwToRxQ1UuBfQlwgGQeT760DCkOALhM5DbJy-nfAmfjTdVxH8EVQH0XdTmBVbd792ZHziURy96fjBjS-jTy0dHUMG/s1600/IMG_5460.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHDTWlqpitJPfFlRRm-qJv7SnwnI_ip6_wyvl5iX59rp-uX45e2IF5EcT1cHaMAPy0_CS4DVCjbtdLOMwgFl2AHxqChwejG3B7IL6wSiI52SYjyCIsv4I2F9Xws2K2AYQC0iu1MbvN8Sj/s1600/IMG_5462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHDTWlqpitJPfFlRRm-qJv7SnwnI_ip6_wyvl5iX59rp-uX45e2IF5EcT1cHaMAPy0_CS4DVCjbtdLOMwgFl2AHxqChwejG3B7IL6wSiI52SYjyCIsv4I2F9Xws2K2AYQC0iu1MbvN8Sj/s1600/IMG_5462.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Once I got it all done, though, with the yoke facings and zipper and everything, the waist felt a little loose. Grrrr. Did my waist stretch while putting in the yoke facing? Was it the lycra in the denim? I don't know, which just goes to show, no matter how much </span><span style="font-size: large;">you fit as you sew you never really know until you are done, done, done.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I made the front seams a mock felled seam since I have been doing that on my jeans muslins:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNe_EQUnrAQHz0MYuV71PHsJehFcZTTtnLM3H1zT7VUsZt7td8DaCQMARMz7j_-VxwMa30unWne4V13fP91sB-4tdawgiCOi4jXVI7asrAph8Rs_ERCU6URQvFGrrXRJMVMJNG5UoIfB5/s1600/IMG_5464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBNe_EQUnrAQHz0MYuV71PHsJehFcZTTtnLM3H1zT7VUsZt7td8DaCQMARMz7j_-VxwMa30unWne4V13fP91sB-4tdawgiCOi4jXVI7asrAph8Rs_ERCU6URQvFGrrXRJMVMJNG5UoIfB5/s1600/IMG_5464.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGgCtbnRfttHTv4X5Ju5XBC-oUWVAUpQ0nvRc_qu-l6zGSwTIJmvad-IiyxFQwzVynLt3o21XbOqQgzK7V2SkQOonlNIfLZ2SB-63-DPQLau6IKOsu-JQvMewnKHpIAwcCLSeD-NsAQDoH/s1600/IMG_5467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGgCtbnRfttHTv4X5Ju5XBC-oUWVAUpQ0nvRc_qu-l6zGSwTIJmvad-IiyxFQwzVynLt3o21XbOqQgzK7V2SkQOonlNIfLZ2SB-63-DPQLau6IKOsu-JQvMewnKHpIAwcCLSeD-NsAQDoH/s1600/IMG_5467.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The inside view of the mock felled seam:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQ82oULZ1jPBAEjHlFe4TPXEWOycS0kjaOyN9WClWnX5ZevT4wXy3-PM_j6OliQuSBidVbdQzIEG8tTjWTmLhbHban_SOzTVMULJHbPXhMsD7CAtuZ46uw6XbWbEvDzyMra8R2K_kgsyl/s1600/IMG_5468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQ82oULZ1jPBAEjHlFe4TPXEWOycS0kjaOyN9WClWnX5ZevT4wXy3-PM_j6OliQuSBidVbdQzIEG8tTjWTmLhbHban_SOzTVMULJHbPXhMsD7CAtuZ46uw6XbWbEvDzyMra8R2K_kgsyl/s1600/IMG_5468.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And I put in my first lapped zipper, which I've never done before, but again, I'm trying new things so I don't get bored:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzx0ZmiFxwbD4yYk-cqbKoUJHhv5NaXQ91AXngMZiP40tR8tRs0DatH51lezV5LtyUtXRiE8VHWegXCfYyDtVf1NH_BUgRFMVbSUqmgxGQrkqLxBmMCt2TrMt9ldIQTEcMSKbLEEJqHZi/s1600/IMG_5465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzx0ZmiFxwbD4yYk-cqbKoUJHhv5NaXQ91AXngMZiP40tR8tRs0DatH51lezV5LtyUtXRiE8VHWegXCfYyDtVf1NH_BUgRFMVbSUqmgxGQrkqLxBmMCt2TrMt9ldIQTEcMSKbLEEJqHZi/s1600/IMG_5465.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">A pretty good first effort, but I'm not convinced of its superiority to the centered zipper. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The skirt has a back kick pleat:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHlGeIBXHqoeTGaVYKShIZ26gUPSw4LAcxJckURtyvY99NePLuqjNKKf6-clpzzxc_NbhE_ZLVxIxcorAEf55TcemLcHts2M24l2ONmXabngDZmPMp6E89uhgn5NhzVXmoVyY81X6cO3TE/s1600/IMG_5466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHlGeIBXHqoeTGaVYKShIZ26gUPSw4LAcxJckURtyvY99NePLuqjNKKf6-clpzzxc_NbhE_ZLVxIxcorAEf55TcemLcHts2M24l2ONmXabngDZmPMp6E89uhgn5NhzVXmoVyY81X6cO3TE/s1600/IMG_5466.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">All in all, I'm very pleased with this skirt (its an excellent work skirt) although next time I might try a 7/8 inch side seam and see how that works. I think it depends on your fabric and its stretch, so I won't know until I make it.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Next up was <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1247-products-14158.php?page_id=174" target="_blank">Vogue 1247</a>:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7vBmDb0PDDz0K3dit4lBnYMD9fHX8xMPx-WYt-D6PcXrYVHqe3iw_iD6bTs-hz6XhOlR624C3B1Hw32OIZl1eR7h3cCxC_KvtZfheHGzLPNxMRFnH3uB9NhcyhLsVMmd421LBZP9kz6e/s1600/IMG_5480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7vBmDb0PDDz0K3dit4lBnYMD9fHX8xMPx-WYt-D6PcXrYVHqe3iw_iD6bTs-hz6XhOlR624C3B1Hw32OIZl1eR7h3cCxC_KvtZfheHGzLPNxMRFnH3uB9NhcyhLsVMmd421LBZP9kz6e/s1600/IMG_5480.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Where have I been? This pattern was named one of the top 10 patterns of 2011, I think, but I was totally oblivious. Everyone on the interwebs seems to love, love, love this skirt, with the front in-seam pockets, although most sewers are adding 5 to 8 inches to the length. As drafted it finishes 15 inches long. Which is fine if you are a teenager, not so good if you are over 45 years old.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I knew I wanted to make this in a soft cotton twill - the kind you would use to make a great pair of chinos. I knew I also wanted to make this skirt so I could wear it at the beach, so I chose a soft grayish blue (or a soft bluish gray, I can't tell) from fashionfabricsclub.com<a href="http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p710_12372-sea-glass-blue-twill" target="_blank">http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p710_12372-sea-glass-blue-twill</a>. The color reminds me of bleached-from-the-sun beachwood.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I made a size 14 but added 5 inches as I figured 20 inches was a good length on a summer beach skirt. I didn't add the length to the pattern pieces; I just chalked it out on the fabric since it was a pretty straight forward alteration.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Here's the hands-in-the-pockets obligatory photo that everyone who has made this skirt has posted:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJVDnRe_z0JjUcbQHQHEs_YxdUZnNTx46BkOhVDR-wnNXDKmsvmWdzwGbdRS0yWa2frj8VjgqOnmPIJHSzcZmtvjUGgjCt5bT4gm6F1gxNdKpJN93esWXJjHejNppdv7LraJT7BOjf6XCo/s1600/IMG_5475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJVDnRe_z0JjUcbQHQHEs_YxdUZnNTx46BkOhVDR-wnNXDKmsvmWdzwGbdRS0yWa2frj8VjgqOnmPIJHSzcZmtvjUGgjCt5bT4gm6F1gxNdKpJN93esWXJjHejNppdv7LraJT7BOjf6XCo/s1600/IMG_5475.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">And the back:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSHTtGh-_R5xoi7LkkpFc5mqdge_Fuy4Ukwsyv-ypNbx5Mqj94CqcKI8tafbcIJs0FaP0nu_5H8h01P4PzeSY24ByNKTOd2P5IOcUCq8L64av0QXwGfkbIdRxPfnoHQuNGeUtbJuorjhMs/s1600/IMG_5477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSHTtGh-_R5xoi7LkkpFc5mqdge_Fuy4Ukwsyv-ypNbx5Mqj94CqcKI8tafbcIJs0FaP0nu_5H8h01P4PzeSY24ByNKTOd2P5IOcUCq8L64av0QXwGfkbIdRxPfnoHQuNGeUtbJuorjhMs/s1600/IMG_5477.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I used a centered zipper and a button in the back, rather than a hook and eye closure. I also put in a top-stitched hem rather than the blind hem as instructed. The pattern called for some serious seam binding that included the side seams and pockets - the photos of some of the insides of the skirts on everyone's blogs are neat to see, but I wasn't inspired to rise to that level of effort - I just used my overlock stitch on my Bernina to finish the seams and called it a day.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">A lot of the sewers who made this skirt have made multiples, but strangely, I don't feel the urge, even though I ordered another cotton twill in anticipation that I would want to. I might make this in corduroy or wool come this fall, adding another couple inches. We'll see.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Vogue has a reputation of being slightly more difficult that the other Big Four, and I admit that while this is a simple skirt, more than once I had to think about how things went together, and not every little step is illustrated in the instructions. But there was nothing anyone will some sewing experience couldn't figure out.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">More on the jeans project to follow, but that's all for now!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Parting Shot: </b>The Carpenter and some of his brothers before we were evacuated from the island due to Hurricane Arthur:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidbVHOzCZicYYmgpCcntqCsPRyT3QOYA5wgQ3E_D4Vapljd1fpS49m0AxaYbAbVD924Pq-hzkGDeH26UUsLz6p66xvOtKXkxkaKsxRdFgDCXkMlv2c4v1qeDnm5SFhvLpqf6oueLuyMzhX/s1600/IMG_5469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidbVHOzCZicYYmgpCcntqCsPRyT3QOYA5wgQ3E_D4Vapljd1fpS49m0AxaYbAbVD924Pq-hzkGDeH26UUsLz6p66xvOtKXkxkaKsxRdFgDCXkMlv2c4v1qeDnm5SFhvLpqf6oueLuyMzhX/s1600/IMG_5469.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-83301987624824921442014-06-15T15:05:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.584-08:00My New All Consuming Project Where I Neglect Housework and My Husband<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;">So after the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/06/mccalls-6891-grinder-dress.html" target="_blank">Grinder Dress</a>, I needed a project that paradoxically provided a challenge and would be a probable success . . .</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;">So I returned to Gertie's high-waisted pants/jeans, Butterick 5895. As you might have guessed, I absolutely <i>love </i>this pattern:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOutZ5VT7Lld9q76hCms9QX2d5ekhcAjcuy81DRebz8nlLcAwZmmqv5oBv8T4u4-s3LzW1tl0aSV-k0JDEviVG8m6y6YMqpHySKXqrYsw5remn-3TwHdYrSXbSqSvyaTtLVeOZ35TqZTUc/s1600/IMG_5363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOutZ5VT7Lld9q76hCms9QX2d5ekhcAjcuy81DRebz8nlLcAwZmmqv5oBv8T4u4-s3LzW1tl0aSV-k0JDEviVG8m6y6YMqpHySKXqrYsw5remn-3TwHdYrSXbSqSvyaTtLVeOZ35TqZTUc/s1600/IMG_5363.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(If you ever wanted to make pants, this is the pattern to use!)<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Counting the two muslins, the two pairs of pants of cotton sateen, and the skirt I made, I've made 5 garments from this pattern. This time (the sixth!), to provide the challenge, I wanted to 1) make it in actual denim and 2) I wanted to make the pockets deeper, and more like jeans pockets so that the pocket bags aren't made of the fashion fabric, but of lightweight cotton. I don't normally make clothes with pockets, but if I am going to have them, I want them big enough to put my whole hand in.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I recently had purchased this <a href="http://gorgeousfabrics.com/shop/denim/premium-designer-3-oz-denim-pink/" target="_blank">3 oz stretch denim</a> from Gorgeous Fabrics as an impulse buy (It was on sale! And it was pink!), a cotton and lycra blend which was a fabric I have never sewn before, so I was all set. And I successfully drafted new pattern pieces to make the pockets deeper. Here are the original pattern pieces: # 5 is the pocket facing and pattern piece # 7 is the front side piece. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie0mn4-DUp7RbVZtHTqj5cd_d-LcojoUY8i4IEcnn61lwDE_qJvBcspWil2dgcrRbdsykzPlaxQFvALZOWDGyUY6LJd6GU38ZEGGLLGv-HqRut1Hv1_MdGNjPuzbwvyFbJo6PZ733ffFtZ/s1600/IMG_5454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie0mn4-DUp7RbVZtHTqj5cd_d-LcojoUY8i4IEcnn61lwDE_qJvBcspWil2dgcrRbdsykzPlaxQFvALZOWDGyUY6LJd6GU38ZEGGLLGv-HqRut1Hv1_MdGNjPuzbwvyFbJo6PZ733ffFtZ/s1600/IMG_5454.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The pattern envisions that you cut both from your </span><span style="font-size: large;">fashion fabric. I wanted to take these 2 pieces, make them longer to deepen my pockets, and also draft a new front side piece that would be considerably shorter which would be the only one cut from the fashion fabric. This is what I ended up with:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfToIJSx_ywKizj7A7YB6j5uSvUaz6GQIm4LWPZla-UcFx_4I0DH3_qoDzDAdqw5CWkuCL2YSCEDAIQM5Cu4LlQGaYHAn8j0-zHtj0fa_T4Q1FWnw1YQZ0ivJp9XXnvzcOOJPvmZZqMcb/s1600/IMG_5455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfToIJSx_ywKizj7A7YB6j5uSvUaz6GQIm4LWPZla-UcFx_4I0DH3_qoDzDAdqw5CWkuCL2YSCEDAIQM5Cu4LlQGaYHAn8j0-zHtj0fa_T4Q1FWnw1YQZ0ivJp9XXnvzcOOJPvmZZqMcb/s1600/IMG_5455.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I lengthened the pattern pieces # 5 and 7 by two and half inches, which is the amount I figured I needed in order to get my entire hand into my pocket. You can see the difference here:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJ7GrlpZ0IWHIuElgIMf6GXFcCzsTPTDiXmNuWIi1zogO5XBF_y4KN0KIC8JsGw2Wq_i6D9IqBBWOOJTe-aot8uB3Q3QdSfsItBvUFwmsMnfpeyPPmSm0fygtXMj-LMnCCbZdiFGwS76L/s1600/IMG_5456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSJ7GrlpZ0IWHIuElgIMf6GXFcCzsTPTDiXmNuWIi1zogO5XBF_y4KN0KIC8JsGw2Wq_i6D9IqBBWOOJTe-aot8uB3Q3QdSfsItBvUFwmsMnfpeyPPmSm0fygtXMj-LMnCCbZdiFGwS76L/s1600/IMG_5456.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I cut the first two pieces from an old pillow case which had suffered an unfortunate hair coloring stain incident not worth mentioning. (I discovered that pillow cases make excellent pocket bags - the thread count is high enough to create a strong pocket and the pillow case has been washed about a hundred times, so there is no chance of shrinkage. Plus, the pillow case is already doubled thickness - very handy for cutting out!) The last piece was the only one I cut from the pink fashion fabric. I finished the bottom edge and lined it up with # 7, and assembled the pants front and pocket as usual.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The pants turned out great:</span></div></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9E9BkgB8FcoYUB2rE9SWIz5HbOhWANlzuacImlo6UkSrDdMd42pkCmJ-2812xJ7MivGL1LEMqkNx_WdTO1Rv8AidZJlOPqUUnF2010fZ5lBBWwXHFRqqfUszngQW4jZPLT-l1Z2hoe98z/s1600/IMG_5399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9E9BkgB8FcoYUB2rE9SWIz5HbOhWANlzuacImlo6UkSrDdMd42pkCmJ-2812xJ7MivGL1LEMqkNx_WdTO1Rv8AidZJlOPqUUnF2010fZ5lBBWwXHFRqqfUszngQW4jZPLT-l1Z2hoe98z/s1600/IMG_5399.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">That's a lotta pink!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVwTvBkxC2CtqCh-2IZbS44Kv-TMGgJ4sN60levXTrvrH5gEggW4lZ42GqDtGssf6wAzblGScx30hRE5ojattAcLWrCqQJm51wpm4UzdRduh_v1mJYriYP17KhSJVHFwVlxKD-uGOqDCL0/s1600/IMG_5403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVwTvBkxC2CtqCh-2IZbS44Kv-TMGgJ4sN60levXTrvrH5gEggW4lZ42GqDtGssf6wAzblGScx30hRE5ojattAcLWrCqQJm51wpm4UzdRduh_v1mJYriYP17KhSJVHFwVlxKD-uGOqDCL0/s1600/IMG_5403.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">This time I used a button and buttonhole as my back closure, rather than a hook-and-eye.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUmUSmhEdbmsg9_HD-cLeNIbJxX4H4T4T2o_2zX_0uPfibGRBP3l3WKQ6M88s1GBH27WYzlYgkdeLDiyJpz6DvYzIOmVewWKWc_JZUl8-SuHf9PDOU6sdzkocFIRsn_0NsUxiM9kEi1ysc/s1600/IMG_5405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUmUSmhEdbmsg9_HD-cLeNIbJxX4H4T4T2o_2zX_0uPfibGRBP3l3WKQ6M88s1GBH27WYzlYgkdeLDiyJpz6DvYzIOmVewWKWc_JZUl8-SuHf9PDOU6sdzkocFIRsn_0NsUxiM9kEi1ysc/s1600/IMG_5405.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I did all the topstitching that the pattern contemplates, and I made mock fell seams, which I had never done before. No problems:</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnig63fmY13_xPFaAa6mpmbl5WCdHHQwH9EDvQnqhvURYuFG_3rJL0eaacRF8LYzr11DiARITGI5VMKXgKKvqqlPwa_IRrNXp_AJWvR6NfiJVHb5jvCSwV5iYzyfayFBDcbiwETP90Z5cb/s1600/IMG_5406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnig63fmY13_xPFaAa6mpmbl5WCdHHQwH9EDvQnqhvURYuFG_3rJL0eaacRF8LYzr11DiARITGI5VMKXgKKvqqlPwa_IRrNXp_AJWvR6NfiJVHb5jvCSwV5iYzyfayFBDcbiwETP90Z5cb/s1600/IMG_5406.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">I'm thrilled with how these turned out and the denim I used works better than the cotton sateen I used previously - it wrinkles and stretches out less in the wearing. I wore these to work on "Jeans Friday" and a coworker remarked how much slimmer they made me look. I think it is because the high waist emphasizes where I am the slimmest (the waist, duh!). And, of course, any time you have a pair of pants that fit you perfectly, you are going to look your best.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">My success with these denim pants allowed me to admit to myself what I had been trying to deny: <b> I want to make jeans</b>. Perfectly fitting jeans. Of cotton. Real cotton - no stretch. Today's jeans all have stretch in them and are lower rise (that's why your jeans need the stretch, so your jeans stay on your body since they aren't held up at the waist - the narrowest part of your body).</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I've had a devil of a time finding 100% cotton jeans. I finally found some <a href="http://us.levi.com/product/index.jsp?productId=27257546&&cp=3146849.3146909.3699766.3146904" target="_blank">Levis</a>, but Levis in the 21st Century aren't the jeans I grew up with. The denim is thinner and comes "distressed". That's not what I want. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So what do I want??? These are my idea of the perfect jeans:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSBB0TxQq5_vXdkOcIv25HQlSZqejK6dGiAwWq7WqmvNyE7X6dtyniDJrFbRRdwJbDhpDg7npfPHU_gUGv7olqvEatBbs7HkV626blNwS2OpbBMJFdZgpSwYgrWDqTcQ4zo5g3nV3A_eG/s1600/IMG_5447.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvSBB0TxQq5_vXdkOcIv25HQlSZqejK6dGiAwWq7WqmvNyE7X6dtyniDJrFbRRdwJbDhpDg7npfPHU_gUGv7olqvEatBbs7HkV626blNwS2OpbBMJFdZgpSwYgrWDqTcQ4zo5g3nV3A_eG/s1600/IMG_5447.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NUxygDbJdzZWHFYnH3vHayqu4qmIqe0_jtW2QqUz-Qfq_p__xepzfGfyxx9IJhOluOY4AbKA1GdOrRUXvlWi6RxU-5hYEXRL3U2uFRgLB3JbDnxZ-BXH2RCR3hxn6J8B16w2DPWbMTpc/s1600/IMG_5448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NUxygDbJdzZWHFYnH3vHayqu4qmIqe0_jtW2QqUz-Qfq_p__xepzfGfyxx9IJhOluOY4AbKA1GdOrRUXvlWi6RxU-5hYEXRL3U2uFRgLB3JbDnxZ-BXH2RCR3hxn6J8B16w2DPWbMTpc/s1600/IMG_5448.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2GTB-Tq8he0Uz32dAG5QQyuNkxkT3kk9tzAcRoF0VgHvQce14lY1EBfFDzXyaPJBlNcwoL11h63xobl44A2tmR-_IhxYJzp_VkCVW16EzxQpxXpc6eDM5I0auhaaDKK-ZKukcJ4szvGuX/s1600/IMG_5449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2GTB-Tq8he0Uz32dAG5QQyuNkxkT3kk9tzAcRoF0VgHvQce14lY1EBfFDzXyaPJBlNcwoL11h63xobl44A2tmR-_IhxYJzp_VkCVW16EzxQpxXpc6eDM5I0auhaaDKK-ZKukcJ4szvGuX/s1600/IMG_5449.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">These are the jeans I wore in college until I was about 26 or 27, when I "grew" out of them. Yep, I have kept my 32 year old pair of favorite jeans, no lie. I just love them too much, even though I will never, ever fit into them again. (I was 105 lbs in college. I am not 105 lbs now, and let's just leave it at that.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">These 505 Levis jeans are a heavy cotton twill that has been washed and worn to the softest, but substantial, cotton you will ever feel. They even still smell like college. And they were naturally "distressed" by me just by wearing and washing them:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQOvx-FM4Ly-sQ3ofIfrHWzhAZ2HbL9VCoQFtaYGlnScctk8irnnorXDI05a2_okS5ovGpQyJqpWLs3XkpjHYosz-IPIf3xAHc5kmpPLyrDeAQQl7s5YTlyDDrkqC0BMuEXu768HqFZrJR/s1600/IMG_5450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQOvx-FM4Ly-sQ3ofIfrHWzhAZ2HbL9VCoQFtaYGlnScctk8irnnorXDI05a2_okS5ovGpQyJqpWLs3XkpjHYosz-IPIf3xAHc5kmpPLyrDeAQQl7s5YTlyDDrkqC0BMuEXu768HqFZrJR/s1600/IMG_5450.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTZBNxTHEHbn9Dpu9ccuePgVi2zrVB5wz0ZLn80cogrzR8tnH-wYIu7rUEBkEkxb_Ib46dwyjWbEXNgvy04g5XvTQfDo54U4wRrb4k7ejaVT4c5lXIZxHswr2hlDd8_UfwjkxRWKlwxf7/s1600/IMG_5451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTZBNxTHEHbn9Dpu9ccuePgVi2zrVB5wz0ZLn80cogrzR8tnH-wYIu7rUEBkEkxb_Ib46dwyjWbEXNgvy04g5XvTQfDo54U4wRrb4k7ejaVT4c5lXIZxHswr2hlDd8_UfwjkxRWKlwxf7/s1600/IMG_5451.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">They didn't start out this faded blue color; you can see the dark blue they once were:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDrtOLT3nJkOor0uO5p-MrxkMn8QD8U5QOleQuCRIbXrcsweYqTm-G7PmyEvZudz1Izowke1wwM7ukTq7S-WnWr6R-fmXrtWpWSEAQkX0IJOw-c_w4_Az0ojopyGgnY_Du04Mt4O8-0FB/s1600/IMG_5452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDrtOLT3nJkOor0uO5p-MrxkMn8QD8U5QOleQuCRIbXrcsweYqTm-G7PmyEvZudz1Izowke1wwM7ukTq7S-WnWr6R-fmXrtWpWSEAQkX0IJOw-c_w4_Az0ojopyGgnY_Du04Mt4O8-0FB/s1600/IMG_5452.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-size: large;">They were made in the USA. Let's just say that the Levis I've bought recently were . . . not. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">OK. So that is the dream. <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/2014/01/worn-in-and-faded-denim/#.U54VuPldVXY" target="_blank"> Taylor has achieved my dream</a>. He made a fantastic pair of jeans from real American denim woven in North Carolina. It was his fourth sewing project ever, his prior projects consisting of an apron, a vest, and a shirt. (I'm trying to be inspired by Taylor, rather than hate him.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So where to start? A great pair of jeans is going to require the right fabric and the perfect fit. And a fly front. And real flat felled seams.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Every major pattern line has a jeans pattern. (<a href="http://www.jalie.com/jalie2908-women-s-stretch-jeans-sewing-pattern.html" target="_blank">Jalie</a> has an extremely popular pattern but it is for stretch jeans.) Taylor <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/2010/03/mens-jeans-sloper-and-pattern/#.U54WLfldVXY" target="_blank">drafted his own</a>. Or you can order a <a href="http://pattern.stringcodes.com/main_basic.html" target="_blank">jeans sloper</a> based on your measurements. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;">I decided to start with <a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5682-products-14754.php?page_id=368" target="_blank">Butterick 5682</a>, mostly because it was on sale at Hancocks for $ 1.99:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY__HMWKIUkCnidXTiK5HI98lCdefr5sZxlkUf419S_e8KMGLfD58gERQ7EfLd9GKkhAPkpr4g9bROIr2bVaERE5Yu2-mdPAkmL8K3DEaXbX8jF8ESht2S_Ico6EPSiQbwj4JKQJWKkK8s/s1600/IMG_5438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY__HMWKIUkCnidXTiK5HI98lCdefr5sZxlkUf419S_e8KMGLfD58gERQ7EfLd9GKkhAPkpr4g9bROIr2bVaERE5Yu2-mdPAkmL8K3DEaXbX8jF8ESht2S_Ico6EPSiQbwj4JKQJWKkK8s/s1600/IMG_5438.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">In addition to being cheaper and immediately available, the pattern had the added advantage of having different leg styles: straight, boot cut, slim, etc. I decided if the pattern worked, I could use it for straight jeans (in the summer, more likely) or for boot cut (for winter when I wear boots, of course). Also, because it was Butterick, the crotch curve was identical to Gertie's pants pattern and I felt that was good omen.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I bought a 100% cotton twill fabric at Hancocks as my muslin fabric because I thought it would important to mimic the weight and feel of denim. The Butterick instructions were very good; I blindly followed the fly zip instructions, having no clue as to what I was doing, and I think it worked. (It's my first fly zipper so it's hard to tell.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I'll save you the suspense; the pattern did not work for me. Here it is with the side seams sewn to the outside for fitting purposes:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS723UDreokYOp-gQAYYnf3GRvD18gkG8NqfsndnvUupxae2EZGB01ErsNI4gzbtw2JIP2ozbBWxa3prbMZEpdRLAg1L6vi32GYtA3MA84ykCK06a8HMfJ1IYE57Zemldcyb6J9cnyWBq6/s1600/IMG_5430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS723UDreokYOp-gQAYYnf3GRvD18gkG8NqfsndnvUupxae2EZGB01ErsNI4gzbtw2JIP2ozbBWxa3prbMZEpdRLAg1L6vi32GYtA3MA84ykCK06a8HMfJ1IYE57Zemldcyb6J9cnyWBq6/s1600/IMG_5430.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">I made a size 14 which matched my body measurements, but a size 14 was too big. Also, the rise was too low for me. Here's a back view:</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixJmRm2nzPxuclX4jjBwbF_5WP-fpReG6mRsIXtrvsm2ypKe7VhcHLTQHb8PQ43n5BI6R1d6gJuYXh7DKoYnH24Ca1wiYIZ5RlmxkL3KNMmvb9V4sjYsepMYSgbsDPCOTjVSYF7bQLumZg/s1600/IMG_5433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixJmRm2nzPxuclX4jjBwbF_5WP-fpReG6mRsIXtrvsm2ypKe7VhcHLTQHb8PQ43n5BI6R1d6gJuYXh7DKoYnH24Ca1wiYIZ5RlmxkL3KNMmvb9V4sjYsepMYSgbsDPCOTjVSYF7bQLumZg/s1600/IMG_5433.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDTgEhCLFqXF7Jg0Qn6VDaDoghRUwTToPF7PwnR4ZwFBiYcRceyaIoSoin72RwcCHIcj5xluUJ2II_gl51zsd6qdV-Bl_AB9hTCUxy6DGsmjdN6PSs2evm5W_dj3YnOSCRL5pNqbovLuVE/s1600/IMG_5434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDTgEhCLFqXF7Jg0Qn6VDaDoghRUwTToPF7PwnR4ZwFBiYcRceyaIoSoin72RwcCHIcj5xluUJ2II_gl51zsd6qdV-Bl_AB9hTCUxy6DGsmjdN6PSs2evm5W_dj3YnOSCRL5pNqbovLuVE/s1600/IMG_5434.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUbjscrDhNw0I5GPzKn14PgCKDPk5E8nM_jharnajwyTpFnc3SKDedB8bqOfNmOereRY__eLufOSmpAbF98G0PuBA6lxoOWlL9GwKLeoSqrHRXUfjP_KjtiYLvhBCUUEAeJm4CfDZUjcx/s1600/IMG_5437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUbjscrDhNw0I5GPzKn14PgCKDPk5E8nM_jharnajwyTpFnc3SKDedB8bqOfNmOereRY__eLufOSmpAbF98G0PuBA6lxoOWlL9GwKLeoSqrHRXUfjP_KjtiYLvhBCUUEAeJm4CfDZUjcx/s1600/IMG_5437.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I learned a lot from this pattern; in addition to the fly front, I practiced my topstitching for all the seams you would topstitch on a real pair of jeans. But rather than muck about with this pattern, trying to make it fit right, I just moved on. Next up was Kwik Sew's pattern, 3193:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgvtzOmn-WrZ60Ek2_Bc_aEjt4EM4KysOz-C7mpcyLne27X-B2n6SCXISC8l7b1qgjxa5PFNoibcBDZvcKSjHTzf07SEQJ6Nx0Fz8UL5KlLRXmnEaiCN818jdaKBCywdt1K_-XnAN8pyWT/s1600/IMG_5446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgvtzOmn-WrZ60Ek2_Bc_aEjt4EM4KysOz-C7mpcyLne27X-B2n6SCXISC8l7b1qgjxa5PFNoibcBDZvcKSjHTzf07SEQJ6Nx0Fz8UL5KlLRXmnEaiCN818jdaKBCywdt1K_-XnAN8pyWT/s1600/IMG_5446.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I didn't have high hopes for this pattern, but I decided to give it a try because <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/search/label/Jeans%20Sew-Along" target="_blank">Peter hosted a jeans sew along</a> using the men's Kwik Sew pattern, and I discovered the instructions for the women's version are the same, right down to some of the mistakes. I could follow Peter's sew along instructions, which I felt would be helpful and I thought would learn a lot.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">For this version, I decided to use real denim. I ordered <a href="https://www.fabric.com/buy/dl-794/kaufman-denim-10-oz-indigo-washed" target="_blank">Robert Kaufman's denim fabric </a>I bought from Fabric.com, which was a good muslin fabric, but I don't recommend for "real" jeans. (The denim suffers from the same problems as today's modern denim - it's too lightweight and has a loose weave.) </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">In trying to decide on size, I was in the "medium" category, but laying both Gertie's Butterick pattern and the Butterick jeans pattern pieces on top of the Kwik Sew pattern indicated I am probably in between a medium and a small. So I cut a medium everywhere but the outside seams where I cut on the "small" line. I also added two inches in length because they finish 30 inches long, and I usually prefer a 32 inch inseam.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I used regular thread and a 70 needle to sew the denim together, but I used topstitching thread and a 100 needle for the topstitching. (I used regular thread in the bobbin even when I was topstitching.) I wanted to practice topstitching on real denim even though this was a muslin. Again, I made mock fell seams rather than real flat fell seams since it was only a muslin. For my regular seams, I used a 3 mm stitch length; for the topstitching, I went longer at 4 mm.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The only issue with this pattern was switching the needle and thread out with nearly every seam. This is definitely a situation where having two sewing machines would come in handy.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Peter's instructions were excellent, and I had a good time putting it together. I had no confidence in the fit, however, after the Butterick muslin, so this morning, I finish up to the point where the jeans are assembled, but the waistband had yet to be put on. I was pleasantly surprised:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjdc86rJtIhlQz9rqVoSNi6HIfy4wTZO6cWNNEfwGpidSs7arQGX702EQ6zSJXdeSquTD9UaXeh5oky43M9dmM2M5MhSiLcQ4nkr87Opsafk9Hz4mkdzIbBgOdD7aJKyllNfq3PXuxgYA/s1600/IMG_5422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjdc86rJtIhlQz9rqVoSNi6HIfy4wTZO6cWNNEfwGpidSs7arQGX702EQ6zSJXdeSquTD9UaXeh5oky43M9dmM2M5MhSiLcQ4nkr87Opsafk9Hz4mkdzIbBgOdD7aJKyllNfq3PXuxgYA/s1600/IMG_5422.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">The Carpenter said, "Those fit better than your store-bought jeans!" Yep, that's the goal. Here's the back:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqVZch0N2NPCjrscPTaa01UdcRtDyMlFoUUYiSivJfHMlbUwKOoWyQU97pmk3-Ud5ot7Pb3gf_yI0ia4y2t4RxHxTMR6vHzTnoHlAdrcvM3vb1JJeaAstxy_a5SoOj584IgVf_rmXmLSm/s1600/IMG_5424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqVZch0N2NPCjrscPTaa01UdcRtDyMlFoUUYiSivJfHMlbUwKOoWyQU97pmk3-Ud5ot7Pb3gf_yI0ia4y2t4RxHxTMR6vHzTnoHlAdrcvM3vb1JJeaAstxy_a5SoOj584IgVf_rmXmLSm/s1600/IMG_5424.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">No pockets, of course, it's just a muslin:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJs3jsyWzlrJBOL4E7V48leFuNdL1x-b-OS5ch0qyhXF9XiYagt1G7sYBnx_y1u4HK3JvV_9MuSoNYR7gqqqJ3BvbXYpLZeXVJXp1vqShuEX9XU0_AlZsHgJEjQrXrzU60o03kasneWsQp/s1600/IMG_5426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJs3jsyWzlrJBOL4E7V48leFuNdL1x-b-OS5ch0qyhXF9XiYagt1G7sYBnx_y1u4HK3JvV_9MuSoNYR7gqqqJ3BvbXYpLZeXVJXp1vqShuEX9XU0_AlZsHgJEjQrXrzU60o03kasneWsQp/s1600/IMG_5426.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5cnFBICUMbi-b5yxZ2VElhNwah6uw9Fb9Zx85A3Nw2ns3f4Smw8MkenO2A5CDqr3KI0tvz4gXOxvlk9OKjAc4RTzCGTi88m1ydznz1Rakf9L3bKyDFWEy8tlb_e2OM76lXFpmvfT9ON-/s1600/IMG_5429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5cnFBICUMbi-b5yxZ2VElhNwah6uw9Fb9Zx85A3Nw2ns3f4Smw8MkenO2A5CDqr3KI0tvz4gXOxvlk9OKjAc4RTzCGTi88m1ydznz1Rakf9L3bKyDFWEy8tlb_e2OM76lXFpmvfT9ON-/s1600/IMG_5429.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">The fit isn't perfect, of course, as I think the legs, especially the back legs, are too roomy, but they can be narrowed in a future version so these jeans look less farmer-like. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I give my topstitching solid marks:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4j09EpveLNcM1IdJqm99YuToYK6cITKauVzmsBwT1zL_4kCWz5LJVPRrHjT510mjOO4t-2kcN5gfZmtbySo3sUgnPm7VPqLLkRUyOKib2My0j7p5pofc7ZfYz5vXJFN5pZgxJSG-qsq_/s1600/IMG_5439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4j09EpveLNcM1IdJqm99YuToYK6cITKauVzmsBwT1zL_4kCWz5LJVPRrHjT510mjOO4t-2kcN5gfZmtbySo3sUgnPm7VPqLLkRUyOKib2My0j7p5pofc7ZfYz5vXJFN5pZgxJSG-qsq_/s1600/IMG_5439.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPfrTtUSu4zpBXCWKiH6cckR057ZIu0Zfs3x-XTpR7v1bW4L0wqSPOgRjGMDl-nedMQljGh0SToHSxgVL_ZP0p_G2gcKiaZzAOIiBxeb-JATO9G4-MBtBkHo17uKix22TodwNaa8zR2WSZ/s1600/IMG_5440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPfrTtUSu4zpBXCWKiH6cckR057ZIu0Zfs3x-XTpR7v1bW4L0wqSPOgRjGMDl-nedMQljGh0SToHSxgVL_ZP0p_G2gcKiaZzAOIiBxeb-JATO9G4-MBtBkHo17uKix22TodwNaa8zR2WSZ/s1600/IMG_5440.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTyjhXeWOjBObCrvX_TNaZqMjOz4AcU5et2L-UZ_Aj7Dye938BZ_PfdneaMj2ewv5zgiQ3_PE9XrZLv2qo5BKkiFd1RxbRr41gcCX2joATweujD7pjnp3QMduoPXcD0uyZD67qt6HiX_UN/s1600/IMG_5441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTyjhXeWOjBObCrvX_TNaZqMjOz4AcU5et2L-UZ_Aj7Dye938BZ_PfdneaMj2ewv5zgiQ3_PE9XrZLv2qo5BKkiFd1RxbRr41gcCX2joATweujD7pjnp3QMduoPXcD0uyZD67qt6HiX_UN/s1600/IMG_5441.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYHD5hrzFsD7yKEvwAcuX6hL-ge2ET2VmDSMp2DRk-ujaRhGUx6hrr_9ukmRHLSuv6UOA8L5EldNX-8LAYvPmG4_MHSmoDXsFfSb20d3SCGqbG7hRNGG5fpt1J4Xj38O8vf10XxDVdWFyj/s1600/IMG_5442.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYHD5hrzFsD7yKEvwAcuX6hL-ge2ET2VmDSMp2DRk-ujaRhGUx6hrr_9ukmRHLSuv6UOA8L5EldNX-8LAYvPmG4_MHSmoDXsFfSb20d3SCGqbG7hRNGG5fpt1J4Xj38O8vf10XxDVdWFyj/s1600/IMG_5442.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Although not everything went smoothly. Here's the backside of some of my topstitching. Sometimes this would happen:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVY_clg5lSOAyJPfZz3WoUUoUcoFDTd9lIHVe3PoeWYpKjgbzxmQrahXYZ-5-CeFnJqlwZo3OTwKoKkW_HC-jxZ-zHEq3-dPOcgN0khXoq1WlwJuTM_x_c3suk0WACFzvTU1EUf7mXGAft/s1600/IMG_5444.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVY_clg5lSOAyJPfZz3WoUUoUcoFDTd9lIHVe3PoeWYpKjgbzxmQrahXYZ-5-CeFnJqlwZo3OTwKoKkW_HC-jxZ-zHEq3-dPOcgN0khXoq1WlwJuTM_x_c3suk0WACFzvTU1EUf7mXGAft/s1600/IMG_5444.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">Ick. Not pretty. But most of the time it went fine. Kwik Sew's fly front was a little confusing to me, even with Peter's instructions. The fly had cut-on fly extensions, rather than the sewn on instructions that Butterick had. I'm not certain I did it right since the outside topstitching on the front of my jeans didn't line up with my zipper. Something to work on. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">OK. This post is long enough, but you get the drift of my current obsession. More to come . . . .!</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-32107226731245141032014-06-08T13:59:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.529-08:00McCalls 6891 - The Grinder Dress<span style="font-size: large;">You know when you are totally engrossed by your sewing project, so much so that you become obsessed, unable to sleep because you are thinking about cutting layouts or buttons? And where you think about it at work because <i>you just can't stop thinking about it?</i> Well, that was NOT the case with this dress. I probably started this dress over six weeks ago. It is linen (of course), and it is a shirtdress (of course). But inspiration was totally lacking, and I just managed to finish this one by grinding it out. So I'm calling this the Grinder Dress.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">It started out innocently enough. McCalls released this pattern this spring, number <a href="https://www.facebook.com/" target="_blank">M6891</a>, and it looked sorta easy:</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEili4XGDEGeS-0nNM3L8IhbYpYCshY0VeZC4_12rHTsw4V7J4_B-Wlf14mlTg0klPtBZ4m3lH9s-lMES_8ii6Db5xo4fR8648_6AVUHj78d-TXwIoS6f8C3SX5d9GN_dkfpcNlhGm3OU5vk/s1600/IMG_5415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEili4XGDEGeS-0nNM3L8IhbYpYCshY0VeZC4_12rHTsw4V7J4_B-Wlf14mlTg0klPtBZ4m3lH9s-lMES_8ii6Db5xo4fR8648_6AVUHj78d-TXwIoS6f8C3SX5d9GN_dkfpcNlhGm3OU5vk/s1600/IMG_5415.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">If you look closely, you can see that there is a one-piece collar (no separate stand), no waistband (although there is a waist for easier fitting), no front bands, and only six darts; if you make the sleeveless version (the blue dress in the upper left corner), it should be easy-peasy. Right?</span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Blog reader Rachel emailed me back in March, asking me for a recommendation for a shirtdress pattern, as she was planning on making her very first shirtdress, and I recommended this one. (I regret that now, and Rachel, if you are still reading, I am REALLY, REALLY SORRY! Go make the <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/sewing/hawthorn" target="_blank">Colette Hawthorn</a> instead - not only is it easier but there is a <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/04/gabriola-skirt.html" target="_blank">sew-along</a> that will help tremendously.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Still thinking this would be quick 'n easy, I decided to use the wonderful periwinkle linen I got at Mood in December:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-JRtBW-iJMQj79LCsHGOQMZhGq8eK9nqSz2cEqIB6ZShAbHedSXxr8-BTPf2-h5XgcGCJhm4AkEe_LHYvzCl5W8yqyPXfXghkZxz7Kz4CgVdnllH5s5nsl9O9GTvFybhkXO0klpajSba/s1600/IMG_5261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-JRtBW-iJMQj79LCsHGOQMZhGq8eK9nqSz2cEqIB6ZShAbHedSXxr8-BTPf2-h5XgcGCJhm4AkEe_LHYvzCl5W8yqyPXfXghkZxz7Kz4CgVdnllH5s5nsl9O9GTvFybhkXO0klpajSba/s1600/IMG_5261.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">So how did it go wrong? Well, as I was working with the fabric, I decided at some point that this linen was probably a little too light for a dress - it is more blouse weight. So it wrinkled even worse than what linen is supposed to wrinkle. It wrinkled just lying on the ironing board. That isn't the pattern's fault, however, but given that I had already cut it out, I just continued muddling through. I ground it out.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">No, the problem was the collar/front/facing pattern pieces. So many symbols: squares, circles, triangles, dots, lines - you get the drift. The construction technique of this collar was previously unknown to me, and I had a frustrating time trying to figure out how the whole sha-bang went together. I can't imagine a beginner trying it. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;">A sleeveless shirtdress shouldn't be this confusing/difficult. I finally managed to get it together, and then it sat for several weeks, needing buttonholes, buttons, and hemming. I procrastinated on all fronts because I knew the hem was going to be a huge PITA and I was right. The skirt of this thing is a half circle skirt, so it is on the bias at the sides. Combined with this fabric being a lightweight loose weave linen, I had serious side stretch. My attempts to put in an even hem were unsuccessful.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So it hung on a hanger for even more weekends, sucking my quality sewing time because I have this completion complex: I can't work on another project until my current one is done.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Last Saturday, to save my sanity and my hobby, I finally decided to throw money at the problem: I took this dress to the woman who hemmed my wedding dress and begged her to hem it for me. Despite her look of horror (she knows bias stretch when she sees it), she only said in her Bulgarian accent, "Next Saturday."</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I skipped out of the shop before she changed her mind. This past Saturday, I picked it up and happily paid her for her trouble. I wore it to Mass this morning and got the Carpenter to take a photograph before we left and the winkling began:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAXx32CRwM6IZZPmNPWJ54i15UbKJqkmWq6XP2W8JxkoGzDKqRdv6tItrHbuSXRMzTfVY1MOMw9CB2yRzSXq5DoqDg8hp7ETIIZ6Fz2KhOEiJwaSFI-udVbmEIotmHHATNimuRkibLtsSD/s1600/IMG_5410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAXx32CRwM6IZZPmNPWJ54i15UbKJqkmWq6XP2W8JxkoGzDKqRdv6tItrHbuSXRMzTfVY1MOMw9CB2yRzSXq5DoqDg8hp7ETIIZ6Fz2KhOEiJwaSFI-udVbmEIotmHHATNimuRkibLtsSD/s1600/IMG_5410.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;">She did a great job and the twenty bucks I paid her was worth every penny - not just so this dress got done, but because once I subcontracted out the hem, the floodgates of creativity and sewing came pouring out of me and I finished three, count them, three projects since the day I left this dress with her, plus I did a muslin (gasp!) for a project I HAVE become obsessed with. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Otherwise, there isn't much to say about this dress; I made a size 12. I added 3/4 inch to the hem for some unknown reason. I added 1/4 inch to the front side seams of the bodice and skirt, just to make sure the waist was big enough, and I sewed the waist seam just a little less than 5/8 inch just to make extra-super-duper sure there was plenty of room in the waist. The color is wonderful, and I enjoyed wearing it today, complete with the <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/slip%20sew-along" target="_blank">Gertie-slip</a> I finished Friday night.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So ultimately, what was the problem? I think I was just bored. This isn't what I really wanted to be sewing. (Plus that collar thing really was objectively insane.)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So I'm on to new projects that I keep researching, and compulsively buying supplies, and I'm in the grip of happy obsession. Fortunately, the Carpenter is tolerant - I haven't been this sewing-crazed since the Tippi Hedren suit!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">More to come . . .</span><br /><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-48612707131266280212014-05-11T06:40:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.543-08:00McCalls 6696 - Take 2<span style="font-size: large;">As you can tell from the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/04/gabriola-skirt.html" target="_blank">Gabriola</a> skirt, I'm obsessed with linen. While it wrinkles in the wearing, it is a pleasure to sew and wear - it takes high heat steaming/pressing well, and drinks in topstitching beautifully. <a href="http://fabrics-store.com/">Fabrics-store.com</a> was having one of their "get one yard of linen for free" sales so I bought three yards of their color "<a href="http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=big_fabric&menu=f&menu=f&fabric_id=790" target="_blank">Mead</a><u>ow"</u> and made another McCalls 6696 shirtdress, this time view "D" with the more narrow skirt with pockets:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2btyx1F3Xl9SToxoJQquq9UV3xGS4WOt_cxFX6L5t0wOXMCDUGc0i5lVzBWNs7H13L95NqpuScD8Jz7NQUoLeYpeFMNPvC23B8wYR33wQceTs60-8fSnx92nxQMUVja7xMl_sYDHmjTUC/s1600/IMG_4759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2btyx1F3Xl9SToxoJQquq9UV3xGS4WOt_cxFX6L5t0wOXMCDUGc0i5lVzBWNs7H13L95NqpuScD8Jz7NQUoLeYpeFMNPvC23B8wYR33wQceTs60-8fSnx92nxQMUVja7xMl_sYDHmjTUC/s1600/IMG_4759.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">I had been waiting to make this version since I saw <a href="http://handmadejane.co.uk/search?q=+6696" target="_blank">Handmade Jane's denim dress. </a>Here's my version:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Pz2JMLM320jYtH4MRArQ-eJYjbcb1tq9-K3Htxjm9OAHFMPrz8aH9HvTpUGeKS21LgRJKxPaVGkJD6jvWuFuQyKar12IpBk_woyP4Xai9SaDLGT6X3weWJIBthmjgNypjAfpJA7-gdmJ/s1600/IMG_5394+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Pz2JMLM320jYtH4MRArQ-eJYjbcb1tq9-K3Htxjm9OAHFMPrz8aH9HvTpUGeKS21LgRJKxPaVGkJD6jvWuFuQyKar12IpBk_woyP4Xai9SaDLGT6X3weWJIBthmjgNypjAfpJA7-gdmJ/s1600/IMG_5394+(2).JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">(Not thrilled about the slightly uneven hemline at the front.)</span> <span style="font-size: large;">Here's a closer shot: I made the cuffs as drafted which The Carpenter described as "Star Trek":</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGqd2y3xDd3LTPv08ovsnzODy-v0PxKkdYm6XRUNgac1reD56lhD9tfn1I3HxjkjYY0Ku5fvlurcPSgeunPLUgWWYT_MWfUvV3YZuX1QgaquYnWW6FHERGvHfjfyTQzfTTHPCzz9ILyCut/s1600/IMG_5384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGqd2y3xDd3LTPv08ovsnzODy-v0PxKkdYm6XRUNgac1reD56lhD9tfn1I3HxjkjYY0Ku5fvlurcPSgeunPLUgWWYT_MWfUvV3YZuX1QgaquYnWW6FHERGvHfjfyTQzfTTHPCzz9ILyCut/s1600/IMG_5384.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">I've made this dress <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/mccalls%206696" target="_blank">before</a>, with the pleated skirt, in a quilting cotton, but I don't remember the back being quite this blousy before. The linen really accentuated the blousy-factor:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDb2DAD33KulTybphrxbJgP6s0177yKoxOoXOAdoZ5Yh1pDQVQ1JbhWSvDOZ13Q-92VvfusVoZs-ZCUomnk6AX8fPmJwkj_M3lXL_SKOGiW7qxMEPbwqv3OUlISAJ_QLN0kSYXa_9CMtL/s1600/IMG_5386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDb2DAD33KulTybphrxbJgP6s0177yKoxOoXOAdoZ5Yh1pDQVQ1JbhWSvDOZ13Q-92VvfusVoZs-ZCUomnk6AX8fPmJwkj_M3lXL_SKOGiW7qxMEPbwqv3OUlISAJ_QLN0kSYXa_9CMtL/s1600/IMG_5386.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYaq-6RKnnSFW36nyxjxHX15xW6qCd1ffRRjUPlFDvEMQLGcQGegUDSgo8nBnK6gN0VnA90RvvIVpgREJo79Wyd-8SFc-vS55vVX2QzP-tgdM9FpMcRQkF72q3FqGDnvURP8zZ5f04twW/s1600/IMG_5387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYaq-6RKnnSFW36nyxjxHX15xW6qCd1ffRRjUPlFDvEMQLGcQGegUDSgo8nBnK6gN0VnA90RvvIVpgREJo79Wyd-8SFc-vS55vVX2QzP-tgdM9FpMcRQkF72q3FqGDnvURP8zZ5f04twW/s1600/IMG_5387.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">Next time, I will definitely remove some of the width in the back pattern piece to cut down on this poofiness in the back. It's a little ridiculous. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">In addition to sewing view D this time instead of view B, I used the "C" cup front pattern piece because I felt like last dress I made was a little short in the front, and this might be due to the fact that I needed a larger cup size:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM9Y1V1da4RaVp1Ex5QtRh-7GTZTQS42XTtjLNRccbtnFLkltmxOqm6MK-_R_HDfuvqI8HkRL-IPEPo-CeTPOelCSkggoa1oym9w_Tgwqicx19jrpKONIQtnweJbqJSY7oeBr7CgQVaT98/s1600/IMG_4748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM9Y1V1da4RaVp1Ex5QtRh-7GTZTQS42XTtjLNRccbtnFLkltmxOqm6MK-_R_HDfuvqI8HkRL-IPEPo-CeTPOelCSkggoa1oym9w_Tgwqicx19jrpKONIQtnweJbqJSY7oeBr7CgQVaT98/s1600/IMG_4748.JPG" height="320" width="143" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">In the end, I don't think I need the "C" cup - I think this dress has a tendency to pull to the back at the shoulders and neck area, causing the front waist to rise up and I don't know why. I don't know if it is how the dress is drafted, or if there is some alteration that I need to make that I don't know about:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisr8VoxnAJf2XDbI3UtVeECQcBAqRJX0uJQHvhUnusRPTDgpWlLyKjuRyz8n9EBKdoIKtekXAtJVQLc1hqXcOHg8AnNk021Bne1hYNwjg2B8muAJXjk3DR30-3FThKLFHdBVMrlopgGVO6/s1600/IMG_5389+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisr8VoxnAJf2XDbI3UtVeECQcBAqRJX0uJQHvhUnusRPTDgpWlLyKjuRyz8n9EBKdoIKtekXAtJVQLc1hqXcOHg8AnNk021Bne1hYNwjg2B8muAJXjk3DR30-3FThKLFHdBVMrlopgGVO6/s1600/IMG_5389+%25283%2529.JPG" height="320" width="152" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">Other than that, I cut and sewed a size 12. I found, though, that the skirt was a little bit tight, so I let it out as much as I could in the hips, given that I had already trimmed the side seams and finished them with an overlock stitch, so there wasn't much I could let out. It fits, but I want to remember to add a little extra in the hips next time.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I added 1 inch to length, and hemmed with my favorite method, which is using a strip of fabric cut on the bias and then folded in half like french binding. It gives a nice clean hem, and is an easy way to provide length. This time, unlike my last version, I remembered to lengthen the front bands so I didn't have to piece them:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS71rtoDfq6Bwx8DycUo8eb5eIT4Af93XR1xE9-AtLdWqSNNZLvB9eb3AIUmJrFyfFsZkk1_UzQj-8YKSGVXpUMefudsq3TRKCEkIYcOtWPqFy-49OYyhmkMtnRC9Ht6yG7n8f5zpxt7N6/s1600/IMG_5392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS71rtoDfq6Bwx8DycUo8eb5eIT4Af93XR1xE9-AtLdWqSNNZLvB9eb3AIUmJrFyfFsZkk1_UzQj-8YKSGVXpUMefudsq3TRKCEkIYcOtWPqFy-49OYyhmkMtnRC9Ht6yG7n8f5zpxt7N6/s1600/IMG_5392.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">While I had this dress done for ages, it took me awhile to get the buttons on it; all that topstitching and pressing of this wonderful linen ended up being a goodly amount of work, and I really didn't want to put plastic buttons on this dress. So I splurged for real pearl shell buttons I got at <a href="https://www.etsy.com/search?q=gertie&ship_to=US&page=5" target="_blank">Chadwick Heirlooms</a>:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZu0sUsQWckcx0nqx_E209Dv3iwXcR16UeFyhDUQWTOTGoLM9U047Mp7A_zysPhAIghjrrrwxfNTramHV9F_-Xr7hXVJeyJkW8VAfRqmTaTRsNEM36Cz7_5cQfIucUSyYNYgDpSdx0Ydt/s1600/IMG_5393.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZu0sUsQWckcx0nqx_E209Dv3iwXcR16UeFyhDUQWTOTGoLM9U047Mp7A_zysPhAIghjrrrwxfNTramHV9F_-Xr7hXVJeyJkW8VAfRqmTaTRsNEM36Cz7_5cQfIucUSyYNYgDpSdx0Ydt/s1600/IMG_5393.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">They weren't cheap - these 10 buttons cost me about $ 18.00. I can definitely say that when I wear this dress out, I'll be saving the buttons for another project!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;">Just like my last version, I added an enormous amount of topstitching that the pattern didn't call for. As I said above, linen just drinks in topstitching. It makes for a lovely finish, and helps with subsequent pressing, by keeping everything in place. All and all, this project was an experiment in using Fabric-store.com's linen and it was nice to work with. I'm looking forward to wearing this dress this summer!</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-77856287827324189012014-04-25T18:24:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.573-08:00Gabriola Skirt!<span style="font-size: large;">Y'all, I made <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/" target="_blank">Sewaholic's</a> newest pattern, the maxi <a href="http://sewaholic.net/tag/gabriola-sew-along/" target="_blank">Gabriola</a> skirt. </span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7kfqUUHeV8V_05gcAkI7RZ1AgVkZPzq_j5x_vukFjvogLNyNgSmyE-8PpvGO4CHea4NEEfSf9JuR602k4KbN0BN76XEenVRypFjiYc49jWroYeuGuBJTl6ZxKRy7fojuwK1DfYggl9OM/s1600/IMG_5379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7kfqUUHeV8V_05gcAkI7RZ1AgVkZPzq_j5x_vukFjvogLNyNgSmyE-8PpvGO4CHea4NEEfSf9JuR602k4KbN0BN76XEenVRypFjiYc49jWroYeuGuBJTl6ZxKRy7fojuwK1DfYggl9OM/s1600/IMG_5379.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">After making my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2013/07/oh-hawthorn-i-love-thee.html" target="_blank">linen Hawthorn</a> last year, I really wanted to make another linen dress, and I found this pink and white striped linen at <a href="http://gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Gorgeous Fabrics</a>. But it occurred to me, thankfully, that this fabric made into a shirtdress could make me look like a candy striper. So I held onto it, waiting for the right pattern.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I love me a maxi skirt: I own five store bought maxi skirts and three me-made ones. I was excited about this skirt because the interesting piecing of the hip area:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbDzlnvnfZC_0R07_eInOeVJJ-OAUTdo9GyWDl8RP90v8ObPI-xPyth_5xZ4U_waxjPmQXDccBqJU0gocBkrIjm4z-K0QxJyL-lq8mCOpl-Tk78cfgF3XzNJxN1tBn035omsk7JHWOVKz/s1600/IMG_5383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbDzlnvnfZC_0R07_eInOeVJJ-OAUTdo9GyWDl8RP90v8ObPI-xPyth_5xZ4U_waxjPmQXDccBqJU0gocBkrIjm4z-K0QxJyL-lq8mCOpl-Tk78cfgF3XzNJxN1tBn035omsk7JHWOVKz/s1600/IMG_5383.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">I didn't bother matching the stripes here, obviously. I decided the loose weaved linen would be too much of a nightmare to do any matching, although now I wished I had tried - I think it would have looked awesome if I could have pulled it off.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnN333uxl38fVQJPlRYXeKKRQm2w8owtSS7UIfPBI5Zh-lZ3HLR1DdiE05DsxcP844PnyBqvIOF8v3u8OuzfBNqdQmVf6QYElO_fKs-jGE0Xf-8vMBgWVNaWWy-O2_eOkGwytmXXWP5iqW/s1600/IMG_5381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnN333uxl38fVQJPlRYXeKKRQm2w8owtSS7UIfPBI5Zh-lZ3HLR1DdiE05DsxcP844PnyBqvIOF8v3u8OuzfBNqdQmVf6QYElO_fKs-jGE0Xf-8vMBgWVNaWWy-O2_eOkGwytmXXWP5iqW/s1600/IMG_5381.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I nearly pulled off the matching on the back, albeit unintentionally:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEFxm-iaq-sQBuVDTVzzd-db5tz6REZ9r8tqvtNxn-L-O_a6sHcUWzTaJQYtrOst_6Q6CeYJa7QZ05m0vL5wPKJkUxBMSuMvVgDCAVEv-JSExvV2HUmp4StM67s19ogF7-A7qOSumGuq4w/s1600/IMG_5382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEFxm-iaq-sQBuVDTVzzd-db5tz6REZ9r8tqvtNxn-L-O_a6sHcUWzTaJQYtrOst_6Q6CeYJa7QZ05m0vL5wPKJkUxBMSuMvVgDCAVEv-JSExvV2HUmp4StM67s19ogF7-A7qOSumGuq4w/s1600/IMG_5382.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">The skirt went together easily; quilters would have no problem getting the skirt yoke pieced together - it was kind of fun! I did a lot of topstitching on this skirt - linen loves topstitching, and it helps control wrinkles. I topstitched on both sides of each seam, and I topstitched all the edges of the waist band. I went with a hook and eye closure on the waistband, and just put in a topstitched hem. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The skirt is delightfully swishy, a lot of fun to wear. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPufOM5kV1IxoJVyU1kdzInISvWfQYQccxP24tEJcu9afR0ck3pu6aWMVg7FesaE8cKjoKmhOXzRx5aOmaG1Pf8jE8vsVvbPFw77OhOIctQavXPizFiTtzqdFUo1redJjcTiiM8MitGcaG/s1600/IMG_5380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPufOM5kV1IxoJVyU1kdzInISvWfQYQccxP24tEJcu9afR0ck3pu6aWMVg7FesaE8cKjoKmhOXzRx5aOmaG1Pf8jE8vsVvbPFw77OhOIctQavXPizFiTtzqdFUo1redJjcTiiM8MitGcaG/s1600/IMG_5380.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQcKXu4A9NVDawxQJ05rtDdL0o4ex8wQ81WrFOC2tmNaZpscYOd1PjutF8lWf8jaqUxIuOEiR9GnCVutQCW3F_5v7RkocGjavGYyeSHFvn5I1Ae2k-pkJfOLmaZm5ma24tDa7gZ7i41B1W/s1600/IMG_5378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQcKXu4A9NVDawxQJ05rtDdL0o4ex8wQ81WrFOC2tmNaZpscYOd1PjutF8lWf8jaqUxIuOEiR9GnCVutQCW3F_5v7RkocGjavGYyeSHFvn5I1Ae2k-pkJfOLmaZm5ma24tDa7gZ7i41B1W/s1600/IMG_5378.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The only fly in the ointment? It's too big. The pattern, thankfully, gives finished garment measurements on the back of the envelope (I love that feature in the Big 4 patterns, and I'm happy that this independent pattern maker included it on hers). But the measurements are incorrect. Based on my body measurements, I wanted to make a skirt with a finished waist measurement of 30 inches. According to the pattern, that meant I should make a size 8. Which I did. But the finished waist measurement was 31 1/2 inches. Which is the size 10, not the 8.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">This explains why so many people have mentioned that the waist on this pattern is really big - everyone has been making the wrong size. To my credit, I did a flat pattern measure of the waistband, but I assumed the mistake was mine - maybe I wasn't measuring correctly. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Nope, to make a skirt with a waist measurement of 30 inches, I should have made a 6, not an 8.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I'm a little disappointed because I really love this fabric, but I hope to make this again, just one size smaller and then it should be perfect!</span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-41535511669757035942014-04-20T14:03:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.535-08:00A Quick Update<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-SAxExZT3-3-HCuvR9lcSiuIdKA7fgYxMGl1VmM7QMRIemZbxxjIgZlKSS9m7MVa4zNUISJK6oRtN03LIDXx5BMQ4BgsyAmlTLJFKfxaJOETns6xSUhCnxSHyzafMAS3u6-BOGSCvOhe/s1600/photo+(5).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis-SAxExZT3-3-HCuvR9lcSiuIdKA7fgYxMGl1VmM7QMRIemZbxxjIgZlKSS9m7MVa4zNUISJK6oRtN03LIDXx5BMQ4BgsyAmlTLJFKfxaJOETns6xSUhCnxSHyzafMAS3u6-BOGSCvOhe/s1600/photo+(5).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The reason you haven't heard from me following <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2014/04/my-inaugural-beacon-sewing-retreat.html" target="_blank">Gertie's awesome sewing retreat</a> is two-fold: 1) I've been sewing up a storm since I got home, and 2) I replaced my laptop computer (it was 7 years old) which required a stay at the Geek Squad, and a complete relearning of everything I have ever known about how to use a computer since I now have Windows 8. Of course, the key is to just spend time with the computer, trying it out and seeing what works, but who has the time? And when I do have the time, I'd rather be sewing.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">So then, of course, I couldn't write the brilliant post I felt the weekend deserved, because</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;">all this time had passed, coupled with my perfectionist's tendencies</span><span style="font-size: large;">. It's time for me to get over that and just tell you the whole experience was marvelous and if you ever get the chance to go, just go. Gertie and her husband, Jeff, are delightful, down-to-earth people who truly want to help and make sure you have a good time. And everyone who attended couldn't have been nicer. <a href="http://cashmerette.blogspot.com/2014/04/gertie-cupcakes-waterfalls-and-real-tea.html" target="_blank">Jenny</a>, <a href="http://www.rosiewednesday.blogspot.com/2014/04/gerties-inaugural-beacon-sewing-retreat.html" target="_blank">Lauren</a>, <a href="http://butterfly-747.blogspot.ca/2014/04/frosting-secret-to-fitting-success.html" target="_blank">Kristen</a>, <a href="http://dividingmoments.blogspot.com/2014/04/sewing-retreat-gertie-style.html" target="_blank">Joanna,</a> and myself were the bloggers in attendance. We had lawyers, a microbiologist, costumers - such a wide range of amazing, intelligent women. We had three Brits (counting Gertie's trusty assistant, Fleur), two Canadians, a Dutch-American, and a Cuban-American. All were looking for help on fitting and we had come to the right place. I watched Gertie do a full bust adjustment in about 45 seconds. I watched</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-size: large;">Jenny do a full bust adjustment in about 30.</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Of course, I took my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/muslin-take-2-butterick-5895.html" target="_blank">green peddle pushers</a> with me for fitting and it took Gertie about a minute and half to take 1/2 inch out of the front rise and add about 1/2 inch to the back rise. Then for the rest of the weekend, I made pants. I made another pair of green pants with the altered pattern:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEignNKQjtyIuItqm_xJdirXnWsAE0IZuDG1tbAD-TwLQlS9H-R81o0HlFPO_EeRDzYvzSW7vTF6RtERKgI1ygVUcfY-pNLtx-USsJELbgbA8dUihbwQWR6T0APk4iZN0CQVd9NBoxyqOCef/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEignNKQjtyIuItqm_xJdirXnWsAE0IZuDG1tbAD-TwLQlS9H-R81o0HlFPO_EeRDzYvzSW7vTF6RtERKgI1ygVUcfY-pNLtx-USsJELbgbA8dUihbwQWR6T0APk4iZN0CQVd9NBoxyqOCef/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">And then I got started a polka-dotted version from some cotton stretch sateen I found at Joann's before I left:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR9Zp3FiDKK_liYzf5S6IHUtdtgzVEeiaOAGRWaFHgFprzxp0wETNlqNphJ5-7BexDgck2qJXvIRtsYUzEzMG_bDk1zCi3WW9XkBESAzupg5yaQNcIvA04cvpf1pBYt1nRzD_5Vt9V0xoB/s1600/photo+%25286%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR9Zp3FiDKK_liYzf5S6IHUtdtgzVEeiaOAGRWaFHgFprzxp0wETNlqNphJ5-7BexDgck2qJXvIRtsYUzEzMG_bDk1zCi3WW9XkBESAzupg5yaQNcIvA04cvpf1pBYt1nRzD_5Vt9V0xoB/s1600/photo+%25286%2529.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9AwrEcw3pwiQnVDeBa-FMMhOAKdTes0NAtpDoBTOoNHH5ax66kN5iSZWb__sefrcsMeXho6__GkDg055CnHwZ1nUA96vmQ5sh7lU-krgecuyLf4F-i0R_rSql2Ob02YxuC9oYCkDDL9LK/s1600/photo+%25284%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9AwrEcw3pwiQnVDeBa-FMMhOAKdTes0NAtpDoBTOoNHH5ax66kN5iSZWb__sefrcsMeXho6__GkDg055CnHwZ1nUA96vmQ5sh7lU-krgecuyLf4F-i0R_rSql2Ob02YxuC9oYCkDDL9LK/s1600/photo+%25284%2529.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHM86CYPb8WFZvpqWafa2sM6ZkU_STDcuQ-PisxZ-8aA2yRQenUY5B7Gmvcvy6eY9aWhRZg1YavSNTV3bfRusJWoYlpocQk-Cti4HvcrhdUwogh81ZPuMcp4Ski0daoeQy-2zAHvwaiNGv/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHM86CYPb8WFZvpqWafa2sM6ZkU_STDcuQ-PisxZ-8aA2yRQenUY5B7Gmvcvy6eY9aWhRZg1YavSNTV3bfRusJWoYlpocQk-Cti4HvcrhdUwogh81ZPuMcp4Ski0daoeQy-2zAHvwaiNGv/s1600/photo.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">(Look at that bootie fit!)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">To say I can't be more pleased is a massive understatement. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">One funny story: I really admired Jenny's <a href="http://cashmerette.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-it-aint-broke-make-it-in-japanese.html" target="_blank">Simplicity 2343</a> skirt she wore at the retreat and I was determined to make it when I got home but found the pattern was out of print. One of the attractive features was that it had pockets like my Gertie pants. But then I thought, wait a minute! I have a pants pattern that fits me like a dream through my waist and hips - why can't I draft a skirt pattern? Which, of course, I have never done before. But I did it, dear readers:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFo7iBJVTOIEalSkg-0lHENKfOP5Hm7Ryljs94gZxUl-206yYgV08vOPZvZt4isjDksEK4yh4eOHjryUO30xuop56qldlxEpjteIVKW43jvowLpdDXAWabuwx6KlEgDf1RvkKjPiee9EFq/s1600/photo+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFo7iBJVTOIEalSkg-0lHENKfOP5Hm7Ryljs94gZxUl-206yYgV08vOPZvZt4isjDksEK4yh4eOHjryUO30xuop56qldlxEpjteIVKW43jvowLpdDXAWabuwx6KlEgDf1RvkKjPiee9EFq/s1600/photo+%25281%2529.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">And I used the left over polka-dotted fabric! I anticipated having to sew the side seams multiple times to get just the right fit, but nope, it fit perfectly on the first try! One of the great things about the retreat was that it really did de-mystify the whole "altering patterns is hard and time consuming" mindset. Seeing it done in person, and so easily, made me realize that this isn't brain surgery - all I need to get good at it are more classes and retreats like this one. It won't be my last!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">P.S. 1) Gertie is stunning in person. Really. And Lauren is astonishingly pretty! We kept urging her to try out for the Great American sewing bee, but she lives in Austin, Texas, not the Tri-State area of NY/NJ/CT they are looking for. We think she should move.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">2) I hope to get the whole camera photos/new computer issue resolved soon so I don't have to keep relying on crappy cell phone pics.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">3) It took me HOURS to write this post. I'm sure this new computer will become second nature to me in due time. Like 7 years.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-9782651270671181872014-03-30T13:32:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.598-08:00Muslin Take 2 - Butterick 5895 <span style="font-size: large;">Well, y'all, today went better than <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/goin-to-see-gertie-butterick-5895.html" target="_blank">yesterday's horrific pant ordeal</a>. This rainy afternoon I managed to make the size 14. This time I used the cotton sateen that will be my final pair of pants (I bought twice as much as I needed so I could make a muslin in my actual fashion fabric.) The fit was much better, in that I could get the pants around my body:</span><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5I-BNfHwFRUdDvRaUVgoOubTjp0i0gAgQO_GuCW5xZ2MW8ljHvV3JtOBUc2gfYqzqB6J3Mltpvk65yzkA-5RWAWpBTyTsmcUa7Bw-oNWlzZT2DM2k7701b-ANIagqiGGseLgP9TnjoTP/s1600/IMG_5364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5I-BNfHwFRUdDvRaUVgoOubTjp0i0gAgQO_GuCW5xZ2MW8ljHvV3JtOBUc2gfYqzqB6J3Mltpvk65yzkA-5RWAWpBTyTsmcUa7Bw-oNWlzZT2DM2k7701b-ANIagqiGGseLgP9TnjoTP/s1600/IMG_5364.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">Working with this stretch cotton sateen was a LOT easier to work with than the stiff twill stretch icky stuff I used yesterday:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6yr9p3eo2EPvLQWYwJz5YxiQVEDGid98nYg6XmAYgP95JeH6IN_ofmsR9xA1OJl8myqUd6a2JGdPpUhJ_P_blhacr9XJPszf2p9KyD1ufyi4VNyFQFssAj3Rebypaf1e22oaHSTdcKuO/s1600/IMG_5366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6yr9p3eo2EPvLQWYwJz5YxiQVEDGid98nYg6XmAYgP95JeH6IN_ofmsR9xA1OJl8myqUd6a2JGdPpUhJ_P_blhacr9XJPszf2p9KyD1ufyi4VNyFQFssAj3Rebypaf1e22oaHSTdcKuO/s1600/IMG_5366.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">It was soft, and much easier to pin. Just like yesterday, I sewed my outside seams so the allowances were on the outside, for future fitting purposes.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPrMaoLP3Z5kqLR3pWKpVx0COJFIYZ8LbuAAjiREwLzP7q6ssqiFkZ9nK4wGw6wxz61118aOjLTEXBU043oB13rDFMadLYUc0mey-LOvG9eIXfs76tbhmaJrYX-hTTcM4LHFPNQSQiOd7N/s1600/IMG_5367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPrMaoLP3Z5kqLR3pWKpVx0COJFIYZ8LbuAAjiREwLzP7q6ssqiFkZ9nK4wGw6wxz61118aOjLTEXBU043oB13rDFMadLYUc0mey-LOvG9eIXfs76tbhmaJrYX-hTTcM4LHFPNQSQiOd7N/s1600/IMG_5367.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">These photos don't really show the true greeness of this fabric - they are a little washed out and make the fabric look a little minty instead.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGRDWPrIpllzsEEMp8TrFvmPujh-rFJsNZ8AnEZGMIomuISUG-EHogx4jwzPfTK_p32hDN7nftf4cU5wUbIxwEhhWii65s6IljJoWN0QyUXmtZWMhkudeh9fCx1hJM8VFYZ6a5qcbg841P/s1600/IMG_5368.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGRDWPrIpllzsEEMp8TrFvmPujh-rFJsNZ8AnEZGMIomuISUG-EHogx4jwzPfTK_p32hDN7nftf4cU5wUbIxwEhhWii65s6IljJoWN0QyUXmtZWMhkudeh9fCx1hJM8VFYZ6a5qcbg841P/s1600/IMG_5368.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Here's a shot with flash:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK0qcVWmgTE8XExhw9_-8rEkbx5Nef5mQjZnXXsY5WTJ8wmVgiG3c-qqazSUsafHS2NoqK3YjDKw7FOFZp5Z4ZwBEsRp89La5ytoJZKgBFDzjNB31Q66MQggbGRIwJ4nsbFjQrlF546A0n/s1600/IMG_5370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK0qcVWmgTE8XExhw9_-8rEkbx5Nef5mQjZnXXsY5WTJ8wmVgiG3c-qqazSUsafHS2NoqK3YjDKw7FOFZp5Z4ZwBEsRp89La5ytoJZKgBFDzjNB31Q66MQggbGRIwJ4nsbFjQrlF546A0n/s1600/IMG_5370.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">I'm no expert on fitting pants, but I suspect I need a little extra room in the high hip, a little less fabric in the front rise, and a little extra in the back rise. But I don't know - it's hard for me to tell without a waistband attached. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO26r5jkg2B71UjAFZke2AtRPfj8wJkw_nPInC2oqkSlfJYlL5-8eEcTUD-6xWPomv4rDtZGwObUK2gSUcRikQaPeWzNGEcWgX0YXfn-fRHdupeyx0RBDzU9UcENXjwL2CXOxE4ZrOe40W/s1600/IMG_5371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO26r5jkg2B71UjAFZke2AtRPfj8wJkw_nPInC2oqkSlfJYlL5-8eEcTUD-6xWPomv4rDtZGwObUK2gSUcRikQaPeWzNGEcWgX0YXfn-fRHdupeyx0RBDzU9UcENXjwL2CXOxE4ZrOe40W/s1600/IMG_5371.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I timed myself this go around, and from the time I sat down and sewed my first stitch on this muslin until I finished the zipper was one hour and sixteen minutes. Now, I didn't finish seam allowances, or do the waistband, or hem, but still: these pants are a quick make. One thing I did do that I didn't do yesterday, I edgestitched and topstitched the front pockets to see if I like it. Verdict: I like the edgestitching but the topstitching, not so much.</span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFT8aiXLfhy56ISzyIY2KPpn7KDA86pExn45Et-3ibbnzRPaYLJSIQztdQNSyifzFnVJdI4yF52SYt6ZaM9R3oqXV28rY6t788nb2Pwkmgam4hZhGOyvlsg5De3oq8mQeF-zOnwfWSef8Q/s1600/IMG_5372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFT8aiXLfhy56ISzyIY2KPpn7KDA86pExn45Et-3ibbnzRPaYLJSIQztdQNSyifzFnVJdI4yF52SYt6ZaM9R3oqXV28rY6t788nb2Pwkmgam4hZhGOyvlsg5De3oq8mQeF-zOnwfWSef8Q/s1600/IMG_5372.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">Here's a photo that shows more of the true green!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdO0uxWODyAJbavSB9Gyx8tPzjaWAaU3IApdLMyLWQQpt_ZRQ3X4ZIF1ypPgrkm3JIsmngFxP6A_yGadYixvgRIyqFF5NRh_stXnaEwcGRgjdMwGVgvuC03AKf6WxSQgwenMvEsLD-svgB/s1600/IMG_5375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdO0uxWODyAJbavSB9Gyx8tPzjaWAaU3IApdLMyLWQQpt_ZRQ3X4ZIF1ypPgrkm3JIsmngFxP6A_yGadYixvgRIyqFF5NRh_stXnaEwcGRgjdMwGVgvuC03AKf6WxSQgwenMvEsLD-svgB/s1600/IMG_5375.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: large;">I pray this gives <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/p/upcoming-classes-and-events.html" target="_blank">Gertie</a> something to work with while fitting this coming weekend. I'm hoping these pants become my sloper for any pants in the future!</span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-10627185459845666652014-03-29T17:38:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.511-08:00Goin' to See Gertie - Butterick 5895<span style="font-size: large;">I'm going to <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/p/upcoming-classes-and-events.html" target="_blank">Gertie's sewing retreat</a> next weekend which I'm pretty excited about (I leave Friday), and the consensus was that pants should be my project for the weekend. <a href="http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/field_trips_in_fiber/" target="_blank">Vicki </a>pointed out that having the opportunity to have someone help me fit my first pair of pants - by the person who drafted the pattern, no less - was an opportunity not to be wasted. Butterick published Gertie's pattern for a pair of peddle pushers last year:</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnboHD1e-514ACXhqZgGSMWujvjzPgsBgic15YVH6Ig8kU3hj97jPekeJQeYzx7d3dsr1PJXrmjrpj5G44MM8XCwPy3kYnGV8qXPHAFOb6p-7xbtL84mcd8Co_PowirRgHBIEIIgPYonY/s1600/IMG_5363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnboHD1e-514ACXhqZgGSMWujvjzPgsBgic15YVH6Ig8kU3hj97jPekeJQeYzx7d3dsr1PJXrmjrpj5G44MM8XCwPy3kYnGV8qXPHAFOb6p-7xbtL84mcd8Co_PowirRgHBIEIIgPYonY/s1600/IMG_5363.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I wouldn't say it's my style, but it is an easy pair of pants - the zipper is in the back seam, and a good place to start. I bought the smaller sized pattern that went up to size 12 because size 12 in the Big Four is my usual pattern size. I plan to make my pants from a gorgeous <a href="http://gorgeousfabrics.com/shop/cotton/italian-stretch-cotton-sateen-emerald/" target="_blank">green stretch cotton sateen</a> I got from, where else?, <a href="http://gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Gorgeous Fabrics</a>. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Gertie recommended to the retreat group that we make a muslin prior to our arrival, so we can maximize our time fitting and sewing. This is my last weekend to make my muslin (nothing like waiting until the last minute to do my homework . . .). So this morning, I looked at the pattern.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Huh. Those size 12 finished measurements printed on the pattern look kinda small. But I'm going to use a stretch fabric, right? That's going to affect fit. But still. Those are small measurements.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So in abundance of caution, I went to Hancocks to get the larger size pattern that contained size 14. Of course, the Butterick patterns weren't on sale today, so the pattern cost me $ 11.00 as opposed to the $ 1.99 I spent on the first one a few weeks ago. I also bought some stretch twill pictured under the pattern as my muslin fabric. When I got home, I decided to give the size 12 a try - if it worked, then I could return the larger, $ 11 pattern.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Well, y'all, I can say that the size 12 is definitely too small. I'm glad I muslined it. It saved me some major embarrassment at the retreat. And it wasn't that bad to make. I didn't worry about topstitching or finishing or trimming seams. I didn't attach the waistband. It went pretty quickly.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And then I tried it on. Well, I <i>tried </i>to try it on. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">To say it was snug was an understatement. It took a lot of strength to get the zipper up. I can't believe I'm going to show you my fat behind, but since this is in the interest of <i>science, </i>dear readers, I will sacrifice my dignity:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgboysfmtjsUsgfYy4B_uhqc8thoXsw2qawjGPN-iqNBXH-6sBXa4xTlxYUu7JvqMD6NoLcR-iB9NqxKj4rKj3A1OdySnt_rxdLN4Nl0Iiw56_3fVzs4hOTeYehiMzdFyOJTFkYbD-dbjfc/s1600/IMG_5362.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgboysfmtjsUsgfYy4B_uhqc8thoXsw2qawjGPN-iqNBXH-6sBXa4xTlxYUu7JvqMD6NoLcR-iB9NqxKj4rKj3A1OdySnt_rxdLN4Nl0Iiw56_3fVzs4hOTeYehiMzdFyOJTFkYbD-dbjfc/s1600/IMG_5362.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">You can see that I sewed the side seams wrong sides together so the seam allowances are on the outside. My thinking that I could more easily make alterations, if necessary. My thinking was correct only if I didn't need like, at least two more inches all the way around:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXuKrM1-JI4jy2NzmdRRTEVdn6Va4JjMvG98uXuntQcn3NhKN6AkmtDXfflnWFsavKj419it1xwfIj3-eOdejJq-dz3QSKb32iDe79bC0wga-l0y1tNy4w2PpyB4ytKxvdSd_71rAvgWxv/s1600/IMG_5361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXuKrM1-JI4jy2NzmdRRTEVdn6Va4JjMvG98uXuntQcn3NhKN6AkmtDXfflnWFsavKj419it1xwfIj3-eOdejJq-dz3QSKb32iDe79bC0wga-l0y1tNy4w2PpyB4ytKxvdSd_71rAvgWxv/s1600/IMG_5361.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhygga8y66-5D_r8KnZAxO_Z3QiSK0aIQb4XTgrUYnJyA63UNwAPnM9leyjSMPpHsA6QxCa0qKHc8o5kx8zUf66xz_qkZt5PsigdmzMSVZq0R5nqCAsKONecFbgH4dky-1I1elK60LpeTme/s1600/IMG_5359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhygga8y66-5D_r8KnZAxO_Z3QiSK0aIQb4XTgrUYnJyA63UNwAPnM9leyjSMPpHsA6QxCa0qKHc8o5kx8zUf66xz_qkZt5PsigdmzMSVZq0R5nqCAsKONecFbgH4dky-1I1elK60LpeTme/s1600/IMG_5359.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">OK, size 14 is definitely required. I felt like I needed to lay down after taking these photos with a cool, damp cloth on my forehead. And never eat again.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I realize this pattern is deliberately close-fit. I realize that the skirts and dresses I usually make have some fudge factor in them - a precise fit isn't usually required, limited only to how tight you like your skirts. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So I'm recovering. Slowly. I'm trying to learn that no muslin is failure because you learn something as result. And I've learned to trust the measurements printed on the pattern!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">By tomorrow, I'll be recovered enough to make the 14. Wish me luck.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">: )</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-16532198339116485962014-03-15T13:35:00.000-07:002015-01-19T17:58:32.516-08:00New Look 6000 Dress<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">After finishing the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Tippi%20Hedren%20suit" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren</a> suit, I wanted to make another dress to wear with the jacket which I absolutely love. I wanted to use the rayon/silk blend check on the left below:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJuhO1AUMCctoejDAaBKQPWNEGLKuWGQHsOXvFtV1bAcokfDsYJJCD880V_HCjuql9vrTKolRtx3Odp7DMCy_B6syPDrmU2cvTb5vCvdZJY_S8li4DDBkT7wKUhdJKepzYCXFVX58GXWEr/s1600/IMG_5244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJuhO1AUMCctoejDAaBKQPWNEGLKuWGQHsOXvFtV1bAcokfDsYJJCD880V_HCjuql9vrTKolRtx3Odp7DMCy_B6syPDrmU2cvTb5vCvdZJY_S8li4DDBkT7wKUhdJKepzYCXFVX58GXWEr/s1600/IMG_5244.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I used some of it for the back of my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/folkwear-victoria-vest-sewing-room.html" target="_blank">Victorian vest</a>, and wanted to make a simple sheath dress. I decided to use New Look 6000, which I have <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/New%20Look%206000" target="_blank">made before</a>. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9h1x9wI64vALUpSmIdnSmZmhKAS6ZPQgxKGlsbkDIaB51-kQHvRg9MHXkVbvDJ9Gp1SxYKp16ptKD0GRtkEeN8sBJMqmaNtB-STQjj0FjZli7zjAhX8okUpcgvsLbyKrUwqv3TuXBCOt0/s1600/IMG_4671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9h1x9wI64vALUpSmIdnSmZmhKAS6ZPQgxKGlsbkDIaB51-kQHvRg9MHXkVbvDJ9Gp1SxYKp16ptKD0GRtkEeN8sBJMqmaNtB-STQjj0FjZli7zjAhX8okUpcgvsLbyKrUwqv3TuXBCOt0/s1600/IMG_4671.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">This time, I made view E (the yellow polka dot version) without the sleeves. It was an easy make and I made no alterations, just a size 12, straight up. It was fun because the dress went together quickly which was nice, given all the trouble I had with my Victorian vest. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The rayon/silk blend was supple, a joy to work with. I used facings for the armholes which isn't my favorite finishing for armholes, but I felt this drapey fabric needed the added structure. But upon wearing, I found this stuff wrinkles horribly:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSfGHuuQTJcO1nm79noRRCzavE8pbJ7c0yXOmoZtqhmbrYq2wIJGi0hQdDlVsXZftUSQ7pq5N2rKSZ7XKXN7ZGnZXi3cNPdLeRLj4zi13MqjEVaPnqUlB8vnzPbHSKhZN1civf6KY6I25/s1600/IMG_5348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSfGHuuQTJcO1nm79noRRCzavE8pbJ7c0yXOmoZtqhmbrYq2wIJGi0hQdDlVsXZftUSQ7pq5N2rKSZ7XKXN7ZGnZXi3cNPdLeRLj4zi13MqjEVaPnqUlB8vnzPbHSKhZN1civf6KY6I25/s1600/IMG_5348.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpPfG78RSuy7n1wGA_W_MudUptgV08scJ-mv_7tgZV75FmTWCyB_Vn6Cb4wAz2nUAWZuSzdQ8_y70PfSk4qt-tHGiR37ZNzEDn3vM3nDkX_3XU08sK2kZbZe7s4O42iDULZ-u2_VZ0w3DV/s1600/IMG_5349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpPfG78RSuy7n1wGA_W_MudUptgV08scJ-mv_7tgZV75FmTWCyB_Vn6Cb4wAz2nUAWZuSzdQ8_y70PfSk4qt-tHGiR37ZNzEDn3vM3nDkX_3XU08sK2kZbZe7s4O42iDULZ-u2_VZ0w3DV/s1600/IMG_5349.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBfwWxEw0HuEi6IJnwwqA7VbTFxtwOBAiRzomBJFvFoKWw5EJp0Sw6ZLYF69M9C3Nem8ckfnre8Hwna3nLwd-g7M4p7CrWC3W_Z92XNs9wM9o798yP8lKHeGTm0sQ8EnrH1jCNZpRKY2WP/s1600/IMG_5350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBfwWxEw0HuEi6IJnwwqA7VbTFxtwOBAiRzomBJFvFoKWw5EJp0Sw6ZLYF69M9C3Nem8ckfnre8Hwna3nLwd-g7M4p7CrWC3W_Z92XNs9wM9o798yP8lKHeGTm0sQ8EnrH1jCNZpRKY2WP/s1600/IMG_5350.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">But I loved the look; the checked fabric was a wonderful match for my wool jacket:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHqi0fXCB6DZ94HiGzJUFY4ipxIWSWhY_773v52gUqGA4_Fn9RT8rz0JQpPS8rT9r4xkCxvQc92I6BsftBAp0dJVF65bdkFIRByR-WcZpbLQJ4y6OXHs4760vVIi6GN6tvRWw3tkXS7Csc/s1600/IMG_5351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHqi0fXCB6DZ94HiGzJUFY4ipxIWSWhY_773v52gUqGA4_Fn9RT8rz0JQpPS8rT9r4xkCxvQc92I6BsftBAp0dJVF65bdkFIRByR-WcZpbLQJ4y6OXHs4760vVIi6GN6tvRWw3tkXS7Csc/s1600/IMG_5351.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">But well, there is the wrinkling:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE0ft4qYcedfP6cf6tYJqAj2DgjDVi9MtQUSeYNStC21hX-y1deVeOlkVJGbf34GiVXllNT2tna4-gF6i6VqY6DOwv7oIL2LgWIiMIxB8ZE8zseh8pNOV9yBqJl9rirUJ11oTf-XwpQXYb/s1600/IMG_5353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE0ft4qYcedfP6cf6tYJqAj2DgjDVi9MtQUSeYNStC21hX-y1deVeOlkVJGbf34GiVXllNT2tna4-gF6i6VqY6DOwv7oIL2LgWIiMIxB8ZE8zseh8pNOV9yBqJl9rirUJ11oTf-XwpQXYb/s1600/IMG_5353.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">And by the end of the day, I discovered that my back center seam was beginning to shred.</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQCmJnu0xU5utLoJwTxubPzeChYHQJXimO_o2DmAUCMuPLzcigSFP_BUtGm-Kta0ZKsOBxt1vYTpNP97bKH4V-Ts58Cag9g5PObt4FpEIVa_53CdarjLVMbQvJWjblThEts8U84I_XYWjx/s1600/IMG_5355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQCmJnu0xU5utLoJwTxubPzeChYHQJXimO_o2DmAUCMuPLzcigSFP_BUtGm-Kta0ZKsOBxt1vYTpNP97bKH4V-Ts58Cag9g5PObt4FpEIVa_53CdarjLVMbQvJWjblThEts8U84I_XYWjx/s1600/IMG_5355.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Apparently, my rump is just too much for this fabric; I underestimated it's delicate nature. I'm not certain I will be able to wear this dress much in the future, especially to work as that seam could go at any time!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So not an epic fail, but not a success either. I have not given up on this fabric; I still believe I can make a non-fitted skirt to wear with this jacket. But to recover from this project, I'm working on my first shirtdress of 2014!!! Yes, it's been a while since a shirtdress was made, and I'm in withdrawal. Onward and upward!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">On more exciting news, I discovered that I got into <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/p/upcoming-classes-and-events.html" target="_blank">Gertie's Sewing Retreat</a> for the first week of April! I'm in a complete dither as to what project I should take that needs Gertie's help. Possibly the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Vogue%208648" target="_blank">Vogue Couture</a> dress which had fitting problems (plus the dress is already made so essentially, it is muslin), or, and this is a wild thought, maybe I should try a pair of pants. Other than some boxers or pj bottoms, I have never made a pair of pants, and Gertie has a <a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5895-products-44972.php?page_id=371" target="_blank">pattern out </a>now with a pair. How cool would it be to learn how to make pants from the person who drafted the pattern???</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Still deciding . . . Any suggestions welcome!</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-40191811666314887332014-03-03T11:32:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.532-08:00Folkwear Victorian Vest & Sewing Room Reveal!<span style="font-size: large;">It's a snow day here in Richmond, VA, so an opportunity to update what I have been working on the past month or so! After completing the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/tippi-hedren-suit-done-butterick-2178.html" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren suit</a>, I was left with scraps from my 3 metres of fabric I had bought <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/tippi-hedren-suit-butterick-2178.html" target="_blank">in Rome</a>. In an attempt to keep the good time going working with this wool/cashmere blend, I decided to make something from the scraps - no amount of this lovely fabric should go unused. I scratched my head and came up with the idea of a vest - yes, that's it! I'll make a vest. I had large enough scraps for two front pieces, and then I could use a coordinating fabric for the back of the vest.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I've never made a vest before, but I thought it would be a good idea because my workplace has declared Fridays as jeans days, so 20% of my workwear is now jeans. Making a vest would allow me to wear this yummy fabric on Fridays and weekends. Yay! Not being a western type of person, and probably under the influence of too many Downton Abbey episodes, I was thinking Victorian and <a href="http://www.folkwear.com/" target="_blank">Folkwear Patterns</a> had one:</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmv6vSQT6s7QmWGhrLdqd3Ena5e2YOiVl1OFqipawOA5MhVLEBgqKf8colO0P9vA_uzM35oWOvFXF_oclcP7oDcEUFFJT52An4z85dP0GT0s_swkUchPzvzxUFmakWAbNeJaPLngm57zz4/s1600/IMG_5344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmv6vSQT6s7QmWGhrLdqd3Ena5e2YOiVl1OFqipawOA5MhVLEBgqKf8colO0P9vA_uzM35oWOvFXF_oclcP7oDcEUFFJT52An4z85dP0GT0s_swkUchPzvzxUFmakWAbNeJaPLngm57zz4/s1600/IMG_5344.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I thought the fitted vest on the far left to be the winner - it is shaped for the female figure and looked wonderful. I planned to use the wool/cashmere fabric for the two fronts and the rayon/silk fabric on the left that I ordered at <a href="http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/" target="_blank">FabricMart</a> for the back:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJuhO1AUMCctoejDAaBKQPWNEGLKuWGQHsOXvFtV1bAcokfDsYJJCD880V_HCjuql9vrTKolRtx3Odp7DMCy_B6syPDrmU2cvTb5vCvdZJY_S8li4DDBkT7wKUhdJKepzYCXFVX58GXWEr/s1600/IMG_5244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJuhO1AUMCctoejDAaBKQPWNEGLKuWGQHsOXvFtV1bAcokfDsYJJCD880V_HCjuql9vrTKolRtx3Odp7DMCy_B6syPDrmU2cvTb5vCvdZJY_S8li4DDBkT7wKUhdJKepzYCXFVX58GXWEr/s1600/IMG_5244.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">It's a vest, right? How hard can this be??? Pretty hard, I discovered. It seemed that everything that could go wrong on this seemingly simple project, did. I mean, beginner sewers often make a vest as a first project and I had just finished the Tippi Hedren suit, drafting my own lining pattern in the process. I thought I had this.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I was so wrong. I cut the fronts in a single layer so that I could fit the pattern pieces on the scraps. In doing so, I found I had failed to flip my pattern piece, so in essence I had cut two right side pieces, but no left. This wasn't fatal since the right and wrong sides of this wool/cashmere fabric aren't very different, so I just flipped one piece over and declared it fine. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">It was a portent of things to come. I kept making rookie mistakes, like pressing darts the wrong way. I used habotai silk for the lining, which <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Vogue%208648" target="_blank">I <i>knew </i>would be evil</a>, and it was. My attempt to find buttons was a fruitless search, so I ended up trying to cover buttons in the wool/cashmere fabric in two sizes, but neither could handle the thickness of the fabric.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And when it was done, I found the waist to be a little small, even though it seemed to fit when I basted everything together prior to the final sewing. I don't know what happened - maybe I was confused as to where the center front was located. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">But the biggest problem was my failure to recognize that the vest only came to one's waist. Victorian women wore Victorian vests with Victorian high-waisted skirts. Which is pretty obvious, right? But I failed to consider how this would look with jeans, which aren't waist high these days, unless you are wearing the dreaded "mom-jeans" from the 1990s. My jeans aren't particularly low-rise, but there is a good three inches from where this vest ends and my jeans begin - not a good look. I searched high and low and found exactly one garment I owned that was high-waisted enough to wear with this vest - a grey Cabi knit maxi skirt.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">My enthusiasm to finish this vest that can only be worn with one garment in my wardrobe waned considerably. Especially after <i>three weekends of work. </i>So I basically called it a day and gave up on buttons, closing the vest with my cameo pin I got at the Vatican on our Italy trip:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAp8Ck7bHfhbKF7tjDseitbTzQJHfD7W9GrIOQoArpD5PU3sxiME0LsrMZ60lZp7rF_Zhtlf7CfWRzZdR17PaKZl96iGpu-N0iMOWqY8jE2UwVWl18tkk5UhVCZqaXhWSkrYLxKghD1FtI/s1600/IMG_5332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAp8Ck7bHfhbKF7tjDseitbTzQJHfD7W9GrIOQoArpD5PU3sxiME0LsrMZ60lZp7rF_Zhtlf7CfWRzZdR17PaKZl96iGpu-N0iMOWqY8jE2UwVWl18tkk5UhVCZqaXhWSkrYLxKghD1FtI/s1600/IMG_5332.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">This solution had the added advantage of leaving the waist free, thus, eliminating the too-tight waist problem. I used the rayon/silk for my undercollar:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifqjk-2r5YyD2qyCcUckwSJ8oyj1u_RUTR5lY88-EhSItCHvshTauydb_v23Orc4T-bFw0ziCn7IoH7uxdSPFrv3ZcGJ4q7MgQRT0ev3gNcFw-Be8zz4p5FjHsGnL0NNVs2oV1ns4WpUSH/s1600/IMG_5329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifqjk-2r5YyD2qyCcUckwSJ8oyj1u_RUTR5lY88-EhSItCHvshTauydb_v23Orc4T-bFw0ziCn7IoH7uxdSPFrv3ZcGJ4q7MgQRT0ev3gNcFw-Be8zz4p5FjHsGnL0NNVs2oV1ns4WpUSH/s1600/IMG_5329.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">Here's that nasty habotai silk lining that was a bitch to work with:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oB9kTLah_sz3AMHaeDhBOXBwqPWwoBfYLkYVINaDiti78YH-qEnShHV8SAiqlBZ5je8rQm7aYV9VADV7ewHl1KG7S69pBHcOEcm8i_AsxXinfVLmcw70mrXad47k20KuW-KJdzmJbQO_/s1600/IMG_5331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oB9kTLah_sz3AMHaeDhBOXBwqPWwoBfYLkYVINaDiti78YH-qEnShHV8SAiqlBZ5je8rQm7aYV9VADV7ewHl1KG7S69pBHcOEcm8i_AsxXinfVLmcw70mrXad47k20KuW-KJdzmJbQO_/s1600/IMG_5331.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeNz3889O9dCl8s2VuEhvE6o6UsUeePUq86IXNmaphGTxxwu1URQ8VeKwqZybX2nPUv_WFGWpyQpTTmzAiD96fwUBBFt4CTf49fCEgtN-lrvnuB5juWubM4g1WbJATi5Y0NO0rGPBXVNG7/s1600/IMG_5333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeNz3889O9dCl8s2VuEhvE6o6UsUeePUq86IXNmaphGTxxwu1URQ8VeKwqZybX2nPUv_WFGWpyQpTTmzAiD96fwUBBFt4CTf49fCEgtN-lrvnuB5juWubM4g1WbJATi5Y0NO0rGPBXVNG7/s1600/IMG_5333.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">Here's the back, which I did think worked well and looked pretty good. Ignore the wrinkle, I had been sitting:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1vpo7Kmz-dKo765O9XgTdd_vH1pgQCk1T2RkfiYiesYsrUy45xPyeCZfxbWfRpj2udWFqZ1DMgjeAY6-u9tssPjs39CruWOqmQFx1HiGT5S6N_oOagVoLAlecuRw8LgFc57Dr8Yo0akZ/s1600/IMG_5335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1vpo7Kmz-dKo765O9XgTdd_vH1pgQCk1T2RkfiYiesYsrUy45xPyeCZfxbWfRpj2udWFqZ1DMgjeAY6-u9tssPjs39CruWOqmQFx1HiGT5S6N_oOagVoLAlecuRw8LgFc57Dr8Yo0akZ/s1600/IMG_5335.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> <span style="font-size: large;">In sum: the only way this vest is going to get any substantial wear is if I start making Victorian high-waisted skirts, and given my recent steady diet of Downton Abbey, that is a distinct possibility. At least I now know what adjustments I need to make if I ever make another and that I'll have to make a Victorian skirt go with it.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I do want to make it plain that any problems I had with this pattern is not the fault of Folkwear Patterns - it was all due to user error and the fact that my sewing brain took an enormous holiday during the making thereof.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The other project that has been going on is the transformation of my sewing room! Until about a month ago, it looked like this:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO4NJHtGt2Dma1Y6xB8NvWSygzGpH3sIvlE97Awd0_mGFQgffUAeVKu0WKeHeF054Al7pVJxQyLoQs0lNKUTHqVVcf4fIDKEJLgtoX7_gnL6-CDoF9bpMdNwI5sRcR3QdozL3RaYaJjR-C/s1600/IMG_4377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO4NJHtGt2Dma1Y6xB8NvWSygzGpH3sIvlE97Awd0_mGFQgffUAeVKu0WKeHeF054Al7pVJxQyLoQs0lNKUTHqVVcf4fIDKEJLgtoX7_gnL6-CDoF9bpMdNwI5sRcR3QdozL3RaYaJjR-C/s1600/IMG_4377.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">And now it looks like this:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjef0sS-iE192oqbJjWtH4c4v1YkXmXc2fgP4g_kJxISIcaxjWGry5v0RFFvMIQNPC9Vzs-FMrrnV1MXV-goT0BeT7er_fcZe6hgFqNy1Pi48SFBRlo6eJ0m8nWX2VFkPwtyQpPrOR9TUoK/s1600/IMG_5337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjef0sS-iE192oqbJjWtH4c4v1YkXmXc2fgP4g_kJxISIcaxjWGry5v0RFFvMIQNPC9Vzs-FMrrnV1MXV-goT0BeT7er_fcZe6hgFqNy1Pi48SFBRlo6eJ0m8nWX2VFkPwtyQpPrOR9TUoK/s1600/IMG_5337.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/field_trips_in_fiber/" target="_blank">Vicki </a>gets all the credit for this; she came over and <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/its-sewing-room-miracle-and-tippi.html" target="_blank">got me organized</a>! See the big cabinet in the corner? That's where my fabric is these days. And here is The Carpenter's old kitchen table, raise to 35 inches so I have a proper cutting out table in my actual sewing room:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifzDZBdzwuLa3S6Yu1g0cEy00IzIbJQoLyOkwwcbzzXLOWzynTXOfefcB0xR1_n5P_xDoSQL4qjIN7qibB1GBKeYszA5Ib3JS2z78g6BMV4V-tN4oE5WfJs36gMBLHV-UK5dDbBVlfVolB/s1600/IMG_5338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifzDZBdzwuLa3S6Yu1g0cEy00IzIbJQoLyOkwwcbzzXLOWzynTXOfefcB0xR1_n5P_xDoSQL4qjIN7qibB1GBKeYszA5Ib3JS2z78g6BMV4V-tN4oE5WfJs36gMBLHV-UK5dDbBVlfVolB/s1600/IMG_5338.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">He sanded down the top for me; I haven't decided whether to leave it unfinished, or prime and paint it. I'll think on it for a few years. Here's a book case in the corner holding pressing things and vintage patterns:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHHl1fT-obTMC48Q3yuln1yn7ATy98AnJkoNLHSjSkFXt5fHtJqDgxECrF4VRyIpQd-GhK0A_SpRst8PhWrYjsM87uMU5VGJqm8G7DG2wn2ZixJDvUxjwdPDnUDVT0GxHQCdKn0BKRsMyC/s1600/IMG_5339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHHl1fT-obTMC48Q3yuln1yn7ATy98AnJkoNLHSjSkFXt5fHtJqDgxECrF4VRyIpQd-GhK0A_SpRst8PhWrYjsM87uMU5VGJqm8G7DG2wn2ZixJDvUxjwdPDnUDVT0GxHQCdKn0BKRsMyC/s1600/IMG_5339.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">Here are two cubby-hole thingys we got at Home Depot; Vicki came up with the idea of adding a shelf on top of both, providing more horizontal surface area and stablizing the two. The Carpenter built and painted the top shelf:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6o6HhHd8qswpPHdMvRkJRZ4mlWYYHuV13Mo1VksstpICBOBIVwlRIhty2vb8uYzBShtoNxaPUjqzKpizuT3XOE-1jHFFqIlVbg2BhW0SwbiBn_S42KKiK5_ZiIhmF3Y4HhYkRq6BVocRO/s1600/IMG_5340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6o6HhHd8qswpPHdMvRkJRZ4mlWYYHuV13Mo1VksstpICBOBIVwlRIhty2vb8uYzBShtoNxaPUjqzKpizuT3XOE-1jHFFqIlVbg2BhW0SwbiBn_S42KKiK5_ZiIhmF3Y4HhYkRq6BVocRO/s1600/IMG_5340.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">Also those blue, yellow, grey, and green baskets are now holding patterns, sewing magazines, buttons, and various notions. My zippers are on the top shelf, in old flower vases. And, for</span><span style="font-size: large;"> the first time ever, I have a full length mirror in the house. (How did I ever sew without it???):</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfRK6wH2YIk4ugyvvWi1yw8LpsVPleAXY6UbjtLtSQe4M_sdu6rUNhw6lyu1CU2fI4EI2WZmt2Z5okSpQFcrnfrbFR0wjuYG-p-LBptZS2v81zbOPwTX5V_iHHuqvi3Tw1QFWOKTB4rN6_/s1600/IMG_5341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfRK6wH2YIk4ugyvvWi1yw8LpsVPleAXY6UbjtLtSQe4M_sdu6rUNhw6lyu1CU2fI4EI2WZmt2Z5okSpQFcrnfrbFR0wjuYG-p-LBptZS2v81zbOPwTX5V_iHHuqvi3Tw1QFWOKTB4rN6_/s1600/IMG_5341.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">Vicki also came up with idea for peg board over the cutting table. I still haven't quite organized my tools on it:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoueBPIoc223OsAz2k6oBwFD_CCtl3kuVOf8_O9w8l_2uJ8l_sQ1kxc1M7lBfP0Z_Lby10aA4-vw9yl-2XLsPaAt-NuVkAgwXRG1BC5BZu0nWw54zMWV3xXP4aIr_OpvhyphenhyphenVameH9vyac48/s1600/IMG_5342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoueBPIoc223OsAz2k6oBwFD_CCtl3kuVOf8_O9w8l_2uJ8l_sQ1kxc1M7lBfP0Z_Lby10aA4-vw9yl-2XLsPaAt-NuVkAgwXRG1BC5BZu0nWw54zMWV3xXP4aIr_OpvhyphenhyphenVameH9vyac48/s1600/IMG_5342.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">My pressing area is pretty much the same, but the bookcase provides so much more space to store my pressing items:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLsNOUFQJM6e9_7nylVZPV6zD_TtF9k_zhKqekPq7822GxWoGLQPNF6AFVQ3MvwB0dXxb_bIRDUwRE4CvNJz7Hu2drcop7s0E77jpf5z4E1eDrCoi_Lj29m4_Dtz15rwG9Ngs70Tc3qctY/s1600/IMG_5343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLsNOUFQJM6e9_7nylVZPV6zD_TtF9k_zhKqekPq7822GxWoGLQPNF6AFVQ3MvwB0dXxb_bIRDUwRE4CvNJz7Hu2drcop7s0E77jpf5z4E1eDrCoi_Lj29m4_Dtz15rwG9Ngs70Tc3qctY/s1600/IMG_5343.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><span style="font-size: large;">I still need to hang my sewing themed artwork, but my picture hanging mojo is low, so I went ahead and took these photos before I completely junk up my beautiful sewing space. : ) Thank you, Vicki! And a big shout-out to Tammy, who came over and helped us put all this new furniture together!</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Happy sewing, y'all!</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-79908618809066258952014-01-26T15:27:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.577-08:00Tippi Hedren Suit Done! - Butterick 2178<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I finished the Tippi Hedren inspired suit Saturday night, just in time for our Italy trip reunion on Sunday - we got together and shared photos and memories. I usually don't like to sew with a deadline, but I really wanted to finish my suit so our fellow travelers could see that I actually did something with the fabric that I forced them to admire as we left Rome. Here it is:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ARj46HG13jyGEFSDNMje7IaPcryWrhalfxJf0r5aS4PggMm2xoEEs21kVOIgNaBHuzJ3rQ4bOO9U2Ff9HgsnCofo7CbFFqVFWcVXMHLAVfw_3Vknxd1uSpudfPjMdBAU5XtrSP48Qepd/s1600/IMG_5323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ARj46HG13jyGEFSDNMje7IaPcryWrhalfxJf0r5aS4PggMm2xoEEs21kVOIgNaBHuzJ3rQ4bOO9U2Ff9HgsnCofo7CbFFqVFWcVXMHLAVfw_3Vknxd1uSpudfPjMdBAU5XtrSP48Qepd/s1600/IMG_5323.JPG" height="320" width="157" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zgRn6fG2X0_Pc_w3UqwFtrudTGYUKISPgN2u8oGE1d3DlhDA6-j_F0imcG4FFseKTylJXvvMru5Kl6L5tp_Lf377I-up2Ow3ILs1Zt42osHHTGTbgnhBS2XSaNDRYjRH-DUd7CEU_rlE/s1600/IMG_5310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zgRn6fG2X0_Pc_w3UqwFtrudTGYUKISPgN2u8oGE1d3DlhDA6-j_F0imcG4FFseKTylJXvvMru5Kl6L5tp_Lf377I-up2Ow3ILs1Zt42osHHTGTbgnhBS2XSaNDRYjRH-DUd7CEU_rlE/s1600/IMG_5310.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">Here I am doing my best Tippi Hedren impersonation:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1_ea0S3cxryWy-zLfsVIUPqS6Ioqgr07nfjbno4RcBgTZm_SiSIDKMqbllaOt906LSeDkdJb6S2F0kqVTTa2MAFjbD4JxYleJuIhpKDgApUsIvrMwv0KwdP0d3GtGkMCvIn3NWssas2eO/s1600/IMG_5312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1_ea0S3cxryWy-zLfsVIUPqS6Ioqgr07nfjbno4RcBgTZm_SiSIDKMqbllaOt906LSeDkdJb6S2F0kqVTTa2MAFjbD4JxYleJuIhpKDgApUsIvrMwv0KwdP0d3GtGkMCvIn3NWssas2eO/s1600/IMG_5312.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoa46rFvKatU7r1vKf0zzd4FX7f2rFgZOAAczHC8_-aV-x47Z9mQKUEpQdSdUemJM9TXHeEQr-IOpszE8UZ2TfLJZCCogViP0wQ0-fh5WgVvzewhv5BbzhJx5kxXBbcIe25GoFROxrixr/s1600/Tippi_Hedren.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXoa46rFvKatU7r1vKf0zzd4FX7f2rFgZOAAczHC8_-aV-x47Z9mQKUEpQdSdUemJM9TXHeEQr-IOpszE8UZ2TfLJZCCogViP0wQ0-fh5WgVvzewhv5BbzhJx5kxXBbcIe25GoFROxrixr/s1600/Tippi_Hedren.jpg" height="194" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">OK, I'm not quite the tall, willowly blond Tippi Hedren was. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIZc0TLUAZVxWd01LDyE16BIPsDk_GWfJEBvVFxsPMJRwncBgU7lveZXkuRZOBpTqo3gVzp-zDgisRS0FZqRHJt1Ru-nfB58prc9xJBE4H4XLIm8c51tU7rEKx85wiCnkFO9Ev2k9SX5YV/s1600/tippi_hedren_the_birds_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIZc0TLUAZVxWd01LDyE16BIPsDk_GWfJEBvVFxsPMJRwncBgU7lveZXkuRZOBpTqo3gVzp-zDgisRS0FZqRHJt1Ru-nfB58prc9xJBE4H4XLIm8c51tU7rEKx85wiCnkFO9Ev2k9SX5YV/s1600/tippi_hedren_the_birds_13.jpg" height="171" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">But I am enormously pleased with this suit. As you can see, my winged collar isn't exactly like Ms. Hedren's, but I think I captured the essence. As you recall, I began with this pattern:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFc_JgfdQIf-fTux3MLp7-fnFkjknTXE6WonCaGz0qeWWbvwnaLwmcj_PTuxbrUbhbU8hWa66tYzIaq-w6kRcraeAR3x4nbQbU7GK4YJMWAxaAFJ-0Q_gZG1tJ_Lj0QZP_vk6UO7x86Rt9/s1600/IMG_5243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFc_JgfdQIf-fTux3MLp7-fnFkjknTXE6WonCaGz0qeWWbvwnaLwmcj_PTuxbrUbhbU8hWa66tYzIaq-w6kRcraeAR3x4nbQbU7GK4YJMWAxaAFJ-0Q_gZG1tJ_Lj0QZP_vk6UO7x86Rt9/s1600/IMG_5243.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Butterick pattern was published in 1963, and had fake pocket flaps, rather than patch pockets, and the jacket had no cuffs. The film was released in 1963, which means it was probably filmed in 1962. I recently trolled the internet for 1962 patterns and saw that the suits in 1962 did have the patch pockets and collars more like Ms. Hedren's. </span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_US4dGhCFAv_c90YNhpHEKtnlBBRyWgTLbVpoAEL_0576YteNVHz9vmzoHtlcDqlsXTmUYOKJS1E8BSe5TrsiNY9bWSPq98hZPzcIlEcf-RP57f7VUvtmQRtUj6yezwT5u81PSEln4bW5/s1600/IMG_5321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_US4dGhCFAv_c90YNhpHEKtnlBBRyWgTLbVpoAEL_0576YteNVHz9vmzoHtlcDqlsXTmUYOKJS1E8BSe5TrsiNY9bWSPq98hZPzcIlEcf-RP57f7VUvtmQRtUj6yezwT5u81PSEln4bW5/s1600/IMG_5321.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">As you recall, I used <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5972-products-10559.php?page_id=108/" target="_blank">McCalls 5972</a> (the blue dress version) for my dress under the jacket. It is just a basic, sleeveless sheath dress. I lined the bodice with some leftover quilting weight cotton I had in my scraps stash. I did not line the skirt portion. It was interesting that Edith Head's original conception of the costume was a skirt and blouse under the jacket, just like my pattern. Somewhere along the way, she must have decided to do a dress instead.</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidCYppq7dcLxEGn5DszInVnsRJsWePYV2Gd3lG7kpNCTxeHt_bxokeXYrhf_WeFFuBUX3Dnn81D4vNoiEsPE3SVpMXuRAbH4RM5nJJcVaWizrRXMdyKt2_aBVRiX5Sk3rzk4NX6rQYqHxy/s1600/IMG_5316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidCYppq7dcLxEGn5DszInVnsRJsWePYV2Gd3lG7kpNCTxeHt_bxokeXYrhf_WeFFuBUX3Dnn81D4vNoiEsPE3SVpMXuRAbH4RM5nJJcVaWizrRXMdyKt2_aBVRiX5Sk3rzk4NX6rQYqHxy/s1600/IMG_5316.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">When I lift my arms, the peach colored lining peeks out. That's OK with me:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1xobfB_lGk2IkquhRTKah1ot6QcW0HzO0J1n5mmaAY8EKstU4HEvVJvQz7cslpNUZ3Gfg74J1at740NQtbXlV8kBKT4-BjzwAdisBl6RmpXEwg-Ei6MVh1CcGD_weEjqMvUkJ5RaIeH6z/s1600/IMG_5317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1xobfB_lGk2IkquhRTKah1ot6QcW0HzO0J1n5mmaAY8EKstU4HEvVJvQz7cslpNUZ3Gfg74J1at740NQtbXlV8kBKT4-BjzwAdisBl6RmpXEwg-Ei6MVh1CcGD_weEjqMvUkJ5RaIeH6z/s1600/IMG_5317.JPG" height="320" width="284" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Here's the back:</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigPF7mTYwmT_iY0JypAs8o_iyuf3b1YTNOfxp6PObkYxC4q2gJyR01sJ_F5d4bQQko1UFvRdkukLL69RbeFPgTJGOSQrM8DluJO7nVBmYMaGMkLTpkS-Hyh7Ej0C9IQCsNw9lUjD5Bjzxa/s1600/IMG_5320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigPF7mTYwmT_iY0JypAs8o_iyuf3b1YTNOfxp6PObkYxC4q2gJyR01sJ_F5d4bQQko1UFvRdkukLL69RbeFPgTJGOSQrM8DluJO7nVBmYMaGMkLTpkS-Hyh7Ej0C9IQCsNw9lUjD5Bjzxa/s1600/IMG_5320.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Whoops, I probably needed a little more pressing back there. The Carpenter didn't get a photo of the bottom of my dress - it's straight, with a back vent. Because the jacket is boxy, you need a straight skirt. A full skirt with a boxy jacket is not the most chic look.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">This suit was a joy to sew, and my favorite thing I have ever made. I have high hopes that it will equally be a joy to wear - I certainly enjoyed wearing it this afternoon. While I usually don't like having self-imposed deadlines, I'm glad I did for this suit because it really is a cooler weather suit. There's nothing more deflating than working on a garment and then putting it away for six months before you can properly wear it.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">All my posts on this project are <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Butterick%202178" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I anticipate wearing this jacket a lot, with jeans, if nothing else. I want to make another dress or a skirt to coordinate with the jacket. I'm thinking of this checked fabric:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJuhO1AUMCctoejDAaBKQPWNEGLKuWGQHsOXvFtV1bAcokfDsYJJCD880V_HCjuql9vrTKolRtx3Odp7DMCy_B6syPDrmU2cvTb5vCvdZJY_S8li4DDBkT7wKUhdJKepzYCXFVX58GXWEr/s1600/IMG_5244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJuhO1AUMCctoejDAaBKQPWNEGLKuWGQHsOXvFtV1bAcokfDsYJJCD880V_HCjuql9vrTKolRtx3Odp7DMCy_B6syPDrmU2cvTb5vCvdZJY_S8li4DDBkT7wKUhdJKepzYCXFVX58GXWEr/s1600/IMG_5244.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">(I believe it is some sort of rayon/silk blend.) I have until February 12th to wear my new suit to the Hollywood Exhibit at the VMFA and compare it to the original inspiration!</span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-82602145199268947472014-01-20T19:12:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.581-08:00It's A Sewing Room Miracle! And the Tippi Hedren Suit Progress - Butterick 2178<span style="font-size: large;">On Saturday, <a href="http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/field_trips_in_fiber/2014/01/design.html" target="_blank">Vicki</a> came over and helped me figure out how to organize my sewing room. She saw it over Christmas - in the same state as the day I moved in a year and a half ago - and she became deeply depressed. The room was full of boxes and bags of <strike>crap</strike>, I mean, my stuff, and she felt a great disturbance in The Force - the Sewing Force, that is. Something Had To Be Done.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">My problem was that I was paralyzed by choice. In the past, I sewed where ever I had a flat surface - give me no room and no choice and I can make it happen, but give me a blank canvas and I'm stuck. A dedicated sewing room seriously messed with my head.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So Vicki loaded up all her organizing skills and unleashed them at my house. And at my husband. The Carpenter now has homework, and he knows it. He's going to hang a peg board for me, elevate an old table, and create a shelf on top of two bookcases we bought on Saturday. As soon as he does all that, I'll take photos and post them so you can behold the awesomeness that is my new sewing room.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">On Sunday, I entered the sewing room and sewed for 12 hours. I finally stopped about 11:00 pm but only because The Carpenter said, "Time for bed." Basically, I finished the jacket of the Tippi Hedren suit! On Sunday morning it was exactly where <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/tippi-hedren-suit-outer-jacket-complete.html" target="_blank">you saw it last</a> with only the outer jacket constructed, and by 11:00 pm that night it was complete with only the lining hem to hand sew. I credit Vicki and the new sewing room configuration.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So here it is:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgkPq-OB874dRQu29KKl2QPaQo8cINZNhSnzQCiJSDWljXbvbPBNEAimep_SJIZmsJfyjv-_iMivOHXzoTb0q2jsg0jrUrT8HqKPEetOehCb5etXb6bJsxBAHlh5GHEYLUPvn7ncP7XAA/s1600/IMG_5291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgkPq-OB874dRQu29KKl2QPaQo8cINZNhSnzQCiJSDWljXbvbPBNEAimep_SJIZmsJfyjv-_iMivOHXzoTb0q2jsg0jrUrT8HqKPEetOehCb5etXb6bJsxBAHlh5GHEYLUPvn7ncP7XAA/s1600/IMG_5291.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiA9s15-Q3yrH6FbSe6VIkibQPkQ2QUjEdL69CuXOsMy2C0HKt5-rMNdk0QMQUxfIfSAyLm-o0lvbS8dsSA1HIiSF7nYd8KfubMSGdtF7JBwYznLHqWHkl7I9AeyCotHXO7LRUOmjzqedP/s1600/IMG_5294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiA9s15-Q3yrH6FbSe6VIkibQPkQ2QUjEdL69CuXOsMy2C0HKt5-rMNdk0QMQUxfIfSAyLm-o0lvbS8dsSA1HIiSF7nYd8KfubMSGdtF7JBwYznLHqWHkl7I9AeyCotHXO7LRUOmjzqedP/s1600/IMG_5294.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQrZ0fx7vd0SstS6nB3OJSEefLja18nzY8BGb3BMzgijbv_MVAoj_Jde3wGRvKOoPal0_jOC7yS07k6aoJQy5IrHMOdNO-GJcCsAjVA6xmLVQxJpVumhAWbj2Inr20s_o2ItFyb6ya4eFh/s1600/IMG_5298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQrZ0fx7vd0SstS6nB3OJSEefLja18nzY8BGb3BMzgijbv_MVAoj_Jde3wGRvKOoPal0_jOC7yS07k6aoJQy5IrHMOdNO-GJcCsAjVA6xmLVQxJpVumhAWbj2Inr20s_o2ItFyb6ya4eFh/s1600/IMG_5298.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">You can see that I went with a peach colored silk charmeuse for the lining. I dithered long and hard on this lining. I considered using the lining I bought for the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Butterick%205824%3B%20coat%20sew%20along" target="_blank">Gertie coat</a> and the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/yellow%20skirt" target="_blank">yellow skirt</a> (God knows I have enough of it), but I was concerned it might be a little too warm. I considered washed silk shantung, but I felt it would be too thin. The charmeuse is lovely, and I had it in my stash, so I went with it. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I re-did the pockets and I am much happier with them now:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrvNFhP2siUI7XSrJpuQHWydHMnyCenxQxWtUiQXA9YcdMXwZwK8UEqh2WJoumrW6MYFWYJW-HmV410uCrh710UZrg7hcL2SLRufoGHpcCAGXNq8a43Vi9bLzbm16EcdLQpRtyYE_u3cph/s1600/IMG_5293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrvNFhP2siUI7XSrJpuQHWydHMnyCenxQxWtUiQXA9YcdMXwZwK8UEqh2WJoumrW6MYFWYJW-HmV410uCrh710UZrg7hcL2SLRufoGHpcCAGXNq8a43Vi9bLzbm16EcdLQpRtyYE_u3cph/s1600/IMG_5293.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRvgyz8Xhxfhc_vjxrST0ysb7S8lVn52N4PIq8R5JBLXH-QYimwG0_lIu4gQWvJBveWBv98q1urZbiniyuBBd4UGM0GLXoeHJtrDq-pg2xT0Jud9zE_BTRpIweGow0Kk-GA0K8M3a3C3iZ/s1600/IMG_5305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRvgyz8Xhxfhc_vjxrST0ysb7S8lVn52N4PIq8R5JBLXH-QYimwG0_lIu4gQWvJBveWBv98q1urZbiniyuBBd4UGM0GLXoeHJtrDq-pg2xT0Jud9zE_BTRpIweGow0Kk-GA0K8M3a3C3iZ/s1600/IMG_5305.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQAna0IDx6uw2aBscfhOOR3PXYET_B8RKjBki0pkjxw7aTUnt5LzIsw1pHNWef7acw-tMDezghlIqP7_I1lbZ4Qelpda_FHv8TtPIwYEhp_eZHI90dBv7xe5sYfrOPjot3a-Nv_pORfKY/s1600/IMG_5306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJQAna0IDx6uw2aBscfhOOR3PXYET_B8RKjBki0pkjxw7aTUnt5LzIsw1pHNWef7acw-tMDezghlIqP7_I1lbZ4Qelpda_FHv8TtPIwYEhp_eZHI90dBv7xe5sYfrOPjot3a-Nv_pORfKY/s1600/IMG_5306.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">This wool is very forgiving, and left no stitching marks behind, so it was easy to take them off, and re-orient the seam allowance inside the pocket. It is much flatter now.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I am very proud of the cuffs, especially since I had to figure them out myself - my pattern had no cuffs:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVH8Nyt6MPnBoQCi1JR1VocFB-2W5bDpTnozP0hf7TjSAU7-gbEVzZV8Rin_lLq_ilfdEpUon7k2KTYhk4cQWnS5QkBm7TDDJB55Ubl8_K6kQeKeqtXENsHeTrJaYr8OKCSNwkROJrWza/s1600/IMG_5295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVH8Nyt6MPnBoQCi1JR1VocFB-2W5bDpTnozP0hf7TjSAU7-gbEVzZV8Rin_lLq_ilfdEpUon7k2KTYhk4cQWnS5QkBm7TDDJB55Ubl8_K6kQeKeqtXENsHeTrJaYr8OKCSNwkROJrWza/s1600/IMG_5295.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">Here's how I did it: I measured the width of my sleeve pattern at the bottom edge (14 1/4 inches). That measurement became the width of my cuff pattern piece. I knew I wanted my cuffs to be an inch and half wide, so I doubled that number (to three inches) and then I added my seam allowances (2 half inch seam allowances equals 1 inch), for a total of 4 inches. So my cuff pattern was 14 1/4 inches by 4 inches. I cut my cuffs from the pattern on the bias.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"> I sewed the short 4 inch sides right side together and then turned the cuff right side out. I folded the cuff in half length-wise, and sewed the two raw edges of the cuff to the inside of the sleeve. Then I pressed the cuff to the outside of the sleeve. By doing it this way, the seam joining the cuff to the sleeve is outside the jacket, rather than inside, but it will be covered by the cuff:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC7sGjCMhEavtk2hYnUpDEiiM6OurfkUrxOmqrXmByYxcz0Zxbau0hx7ID8dLGudVIHUxiVpBqh1ryUbn4I3LtMo46QhapJHThkeqNFTLWMxTQeJoiXn0t3n-_XLvKFTDxNpgKyn7ZCSqg/s1600/IMG_5296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC7sGjCMhEavtk2hYnUpDEiiM6OurfkUrxOmqrXmByYxcz0Zxbau0hx7ID8dLGudVIHUxiVpBqh1ryUbn4I3LtMo46QhapJHThkeqNFTLWMxTQeJoiXn0t3n-_XLvKFTDxNpgKyn7ZCSqg/s1600/IMG_5296.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">The inside of the sleeve cuff looks clean and neat:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIsdlWs5aNgET7WYh0NyNRc_flRLVyg8T6hf0R1pykJ0eRzFBSXFkPocnK5YvZ-gC4OzWO7zH8Gh4psbQEyCnu1-K1MIo8rf0vuhqFnen61gtrJNknSGxPdo_N-1cWuAiiWdS4LUDd0qga/s1600/IMG_5297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIsdlWs5aNgET7WYh0NyNRc_flRLVyg8T6hf0R1pykJ0eRzFBSXFkPocnK5YvZ-gC4OzWO7zH8Gh4psbQEyCnu1-K1MIo8rf0vuhqFnen61gtrJNknSGxPdo_N-1cWuAiiWdS4LUDd0qga/s1600/IMG_5297.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">To keep the cuff turned up, I hand tacked it at the back seam of the sleeve and cuff. (Doing it this way also automatically hems your sleeve lining as well!)</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">One thing I love about the sleeves on this jacket is the dart at the elbow, something you don't see in a lot of modern patterns:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEkkSqVa6JQLMOIjf08yu9GjfJV8N152buvg6M69XXUCwZjCyUm8QMIZVB-mLpJnV0m26CHCwmoNcVduqhkvOXyYXKfB7ngHMEaDcDQ1qB9b7a8qkK7IJQIgxr4HGrjJqkJfpmyMXLjcs5/s1600/IMG_5309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEkkSqVa6JQLMOIjf08yu9GjfJV8N152buvg6M69XXUCwZjCyUm8QMIZVB-mLpJnV0m26CHCwmoNcVduqhkvOXyYXKfB7ngHMEaDcDQ1qB9b7a8qkK7IJQIgxr4HGrjJqkJfpmyMXLjcs5/s1600/IMG_5309.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;">So the lining. I drafted my own lining pattern. I don't know if I did it "right". I did what made sense to me. Here we go:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">For the sleeves, I just used the sleeve pattern pieces with no change. For the back lining, I used the back pattern piece, but instead of cutting the pattern piece on the fold, I positioned the pattern piece a half inch from the fold of the fabric: </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-PwJUez6V7GgJ_gd0knInPvlRM_G4rDtjwJfMUnKTFsnV4bP3LfMNG-iQR7GHF2HRkF0S33WHBINuOjlEjfNTO5zYN1cfDg9C52Y_MZNAx76_kFesFbYrx1QtI9dFjGjjPzJsOGkpr4L/s1600/IMG_5302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-PwJUez6V7GgJ_gd0knInPvlRM_G4rDtjwJfMUnKTFsnV4bP3LfMNG-iQR7GHF2HRkF0S33WHBINuOjlEjfNTO5zYN1cfDg9C52Y_MZNAx76_kFesFbYrx1QtI9dFjGjjPzJsOGkpr4L/s1600/IMG_5302.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">The extra half inch became my one inch pleat that gave me extra ease in my lining:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghguwS2AC-TSl2hwapm_53FX3cUbizegGEgDys4n9imzxR4Z6lRH3ucHdHKBzVkaKzkxEIxHt9r97wDvhrM9bGLjyM136nf2c3GUip4d4kk_hMEXtyyUy9DoonHPLvagmceU-rGYCx9u18/s1600/IMG_5307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghguwS2AC-TSl2hwapm_53FX3cUbizegGEgDys4n9imzxR4Z6lRH3ucHdHKBzVkaKzkxEIxHt9r97wDvhrM9bGLjyM136nf2c3GUip4d4kk_hMEXtyyUy9DoonHPLvagmceU-rGYCx9u18/s1600/IMG_5307.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">The original pattern fold line became my stitching line. For the first two inches (from the top neckline), I used my regular sewing stitch. After the first two inches, I went to a basting stitch until I reach 2 inches from the bottom edge, whereupon I went back to my regular stitch length. After inserting the lining, I took out the basting stitches, thus releasing my pleat.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The front lining pattern piece was the most challenging. I took the collar/jacket facing pattern piece,</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ84RpcS6iLv5Tolqa6-5cjw61UvtqiOEZDV47-2mgkrRsQhRITDD5KraIXnurGX7rpFxJPywBorvm_wiLymI6jbPdSY-9pWrriOZ1EnnDRCm7HaxCcM07OJ29wmCOKdcxexD6J3k_HrMo/s1600/IMG_5304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ84RpcS6iLv5Tolqa6-5cjw61UvtqiOEZDV47-2mgkrRsQhRITDD5KraIXnurGX7rpFxJPywBorvm_wiLymI6jbPdSY-9pWrriOZ1EnnDRCm7HaxCcM07OJ29wmCOKdcxexD6J3k_HrMo/s1600/IMG_5304.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">and laid it over the front jacket pattern piece. Then I traced whatever the collar/jacket facing pattern piece did not cover, but added an half inch where the facing and lining piece will meet when I stitch them together with a quarter inch seam allowance. This is what I ended up with:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUliAedg-OG1SqlaPdTsB7nb8syN9NlO5NRKPQuiRqQ6EjYQ7taQIdTI1zx85UwMchyesT7hBghMlIabaeRAh4SZRvrhjB6Mha51kSuR4JqWkHffPnAT4mfaAljvE1VRoNqDLgitHJEFOX/s1600/IMG_5303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUliAedg-OG1SqlaPdTsB7nb8syN9NlO5NRKPQuiRqQ6EjYQ7taQIdTI1zx85UwMchyesT7hBghMlIabaeRAh4SZRvrhjB6Mha51kSuR4JqWkHffPnAT4mfaAljvE1VRoNqDLgitHJEFOX/s1600/IMG_5303.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I know, not very exciting. But it worked. I didn't sew the darts in my lining pieces (with the exception of the sleeve dart), but I brought the legs together as tucks. By not sewing the complete darts, I gave my lining extra ease. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">My one "duh" moment came when I prepared to hem the jacket, fully intending to put in a machine hem, when I realized that I would be hemming right through my pockets. Doh! A hand stitched hem was a must. I have to admit that the interlining, again, helped tremendously, and allowed the hem to be truly invisible since I only stitched to the interlining, rather than all the way to the outer wool layer. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I still have to hand sew the lining hem to the jacket hem. Getting the lining lined up correctly is a challenge. Too loose and it sags; too tight and it makes your garment hang funny. And what looks right on the hanger doesn't necessarily look right on you. So it is a lot of pinning and trying on. I think I have it about right now:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnVV7Da663F7yInVwt9d4U8N1A4STh-MqsJKmj6hpYiv88PFnl7gMkzZhSbfQKN_XyJimWnLXDaXsoUtnIemKS1F1TRpDXq8qZ6j6dGZoAfQsNUMS7eeCxJ5em5MITDTP4zwsSlfcFyzw2/s1600/IMG_5308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnVV7Da663F7yInVwt9d4U8N1A4STh-MqsJKmj6hpYiv88PFnl7gMkzZhSbfQKN_XyJimWnLXDaXsoUtnIemKS1F1TRpDXq8qZ6j6dGZoAfQsNUMS7eeCxJ5em5MITDTP4zwsSlfcFyzw2/s1600/IMG_5308.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">I am enormously pleased with how this jacket has turned out. With the incredibly soft wool/cashmere outer jacket and silk lining, this is an incredibly luxurious garment. I have never worked with such gorgeous fabric.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Today I started on the dress that will go under the jacket. As I have mentioned, I'm using <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/McCalls%205972" target="_blank">McCalls 5972</a>, and I cut it out today. It won't be underlined, but I lined the bodice with cotton. Again, this wool is so fantastic, I sort of don't want the sewing to end. I might be able to make a vest from the scraps I have left, and don't think I won't try. : )</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I did finish the bodice today; here it is hanging from the back of my chair:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodXwB2ourpHkmVZ5n5CsWfaQicBpsVLSMt8jGLqz6PcB5LNOlnj1eqrPEVoR-FUUlL5kHu4mvKzkWXQNAJBE2sVY27ket7jeuLisM81kwW5JgUdT9himkg_tZOxT02NBt5mqGLCP5DXC2/s1600/IMG_5301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodXwB2ourpHkmVZ5n5CsWfaQicBpsVLSMt8jGLqz6PcB5LNOlnj1eqrPEVoR-FUUlL5kHu4mvKzkWXQNAJBE2sVY27ket7jeuLisM81kwW5JgUdT9himkg_tZOxT02NBt5mqGLCP5DXC2/s1600/IMG_5301.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">You can see one of the purchases Vicki and I made in the background!</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-42550854117042257782014-01-12T16:31:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.538-08:00Tippi Hedren Suit - Outer Jacket Complete! Butterick 2178<span style="font-size: large;">I finished the outer jacket today and here it is:</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnF3ccMIVNUCkoaWcVJOiKQou4L9N_rnEsYVjVJUUpoUF6TlyrOHH7OCsHBKkBqqFToB47sakCNhmXAcuim_4A5KEZ38Oh7bWHbEHvuBu_Af3jkXlH1ghcwV2T22ZiDnFWKk6k8YwADGC/s1600/IMG_5288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnF3ccMIVNUCkoaWcVJOiKQou4L9N_rnEsYVjVJUUpoUF6TlyrOHH7OCsHBKkBqqFToB47sakCNhmXAcuim_4A5KEZ38Oh7bWHbEHvuBu_Af3jkXlH1ghcwV2T22ZiDnFWKk6k8YwADGC/s320/IMG_5288.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The pockets are going to be a lot shallower than depicted in the photo because I haven't hemmed the jacket yet (the hem is a deep 1 3/4 inches). To make the pockets, I started by looking at the front jacket pattern piece which shows the placement of the pocket flaps:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrSF7faswLG9Ypaxe5kcEPISV7z2U3oN_E62oLh7L7mUgiI0SzzrtQHh2drpFA-nxWe0NzRz480I_kkHkUzudeO2W4lMXg8sZXl4i9EAaIsW7R-S49I35GRvPdhg6UNqJDK9UKOuMUNm2i/s1600/IMG_5283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrSF7faswLG9Ypaxe5kcEPISV7z2U3oN_E62oLh7L7mUgiI0SzzrtQHh2drpFA-nxWe0NzRz480I_kkHkUzudeO2W4lMXg8sZXl4i9EAaIsW7R-S49I35GRvPdhg6UNqJDK9UKOuMUNm2i/s320/IMG_5283.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">I measured, and the distances between the two dots above was 5 inches, so I added a half inch for two quarter inch seam allowances. I then measured to the bottom edge of the pattern piece and that was 5 3/8 inches. Then I added another two inches because I wanted a fold-over so that the lining of the pocket wouldn't show from the top of the pocket. So my "pattern piece" for the pocket was 5 1/2 inches by 7 3/8 inches. I didn't worry about being exact, since I could just trim the bottom of the pocket to be even with the bottom of the jacket.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I cut two pieces from the wool and two pieces from some silk scraps from some silk my in-laws brought me from <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2010/09/sinapore-swag.html" target="_blank">Singapore</a>. I sewed them together at the top using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Then I stitched them together at the sides, right sides together, with the wool folded about an 1 1/4 inch down. Then I turned the pockets right side out. Here is a photo of the back/inside of the pockets:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbFeIWuApny5S-O35lognEKhZNPMMj4icXLlVHqwDN7DRuJiGtuAVMTp0ohePvWH01W9kodXvwWu-3wNP-aAxuQmAv95hekbJ4CVTGFlELTJIuKT8Il33NyHvaoUbI3de_qojLtUnbLgQ/s1600/IMG_5284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbFeIWuApny5S-O35lognEKhZNPMMj4icXLlVHqwDN7DRuJiGtuAVMTp0ohePvWH01W9kodXvwWu-3wNP-aAxuQmAv95hekbJ4CVTGFlELTJIuKT8Il33NyHvaoUbI3de_qojLtUnbLgQ/s320/IMG_5284.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">And here's a close up of the front pocket before it was sewn on:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUjsFy0b1Ivqe5YTD5FSly1RVUdkPnHfF4zYETWoTl6k5UTWlAyrvioJz3d23MFL3sPRTokV1KbvdzQgRiAsr6zdvUVwnDwxkRVq6F6qPvsQ9_yooxZZF1f7NXTTkSA5_vuikRz3fE3Dmn/s1600/IMG_5285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUjsFy0b1Ivqe5YTD5FSly1RVUdkPnHfF4zYETWoTl6k5UTWlAyrvioJz3d23MFL3sPRTokV1KbvdzQgRiAsr6zdvUVwnDwxkRVq6F6qPvsQ9_yooxZZF1f7NXTTkSA5_vuikRz3fE3Dmn/s320/IMG_5285.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">To attach the pocket, I used the placement dots on the pattern piece to orient me where I wanted the pockets. I ended up putting them a half inch closer to the front and a half inch higher than the original pocket flap marks.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Then there was nothing left to do but topstitch down the side of each pocket. I sweated this step though, because topstitching is forever. (Not really, but it feels like it!) I've been using the dark pine green thread I used on my Gertie coat for this project, but I felt that it was too dark for this heathered green wool. I ended up using dark grey thread instead, which I believe blended better with the wool.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Also, I didn't topstitch the pockets all the way to the bottom edge of the jacket because I don't want the pocket edge to interfere with my hemming. So I left the bottom inch unstitched so I can trim the pockets before I hem. The bottom of the pockets will be covered by the lining.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Of course, as I type, I realize that I should have pressed the wool/silk top seam towards the silk instead of towards the wool; it would lay flatter. Thus, I'm not completely happy with the pockets, but I'm not certain I'm so unhappy that I would re-do them. I'll ruminate on it for awhile.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Today I also made a pattern piece for the cuffs, and created a pattern piece for the jacket front lining. Still don't know if it will work, but I'll make it work. I laid out all the still uncut pattern pieces, along with the dress pattern pieces just to make sure I'll have enough fabric. I'll have enough with about 1/4 yard to spare!</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-77103380924408063092014-01-11T17:45:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.569-08:00Tippi Hedren Suit - A Major Shortcut!<span style="font-size: large;">So. Cutting out. Never anyone's favorite step in creating your dream garment. I gave this step a lot of thought for two reasons: 1) I'm working with wool, which from my experience with the Gertie coat, I learned is difficult to mark because chalk is useless; and 2) this wool/cashmere blend is so soft it could slip through the proverbial ring. The obvious solution was unpalatable: underline the jacket. Underlining would provide body and structure to the wool, along with a great surface to make all my markings for darts, collar match points, etc. BUT underlining traditionally involves hand sewing the underlining to your wool and then treating the two as one. Ugh.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And then I got this idea. This wonderful, awful idea. Steam-A-Seam. No, really. I figured there would be three pieces that would need to be underlined: the two fronts and the back. (I won't underline the sleeves, and the facing/overcollar will be interfaced instead.) I cut the fronts and back out of muslin and made all the markings I wanted. Then I laid them down on the wrong side of my wool fabric:</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWi6w5XOfmy20e5XOyWV9qx4FfPQMAwFwf9BIwNMVfvkyCNySM-PgqlGTyMEKBdk-wb1WPhI98OqpjuJfZYRelOooeIjRMp0UJAAuUEZqK-ZRaOnEEtKlGyf2jHeo7AOrzrUQ7ks5Jxoy_/s1600/IMG_5270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWi6w5XOfmy20e5XOyWV9qx4FfPQMAwFwf9BIwNMVfvkyCNySM-PgqlGTyMEKBdk-wb1WPhI98OqpjuJfZYRelOooeIjRMp0UJAAuUEZqK-ZRaOnEEtKlGyf2jHeo7AOrzrUQ7ks5Jxoy_/s1600/IMG_5270.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div> <span style="font-size: large;">I pinned the muslin pieces to the wool about an inch and half from the muslin edges. To apply the Steam-A-Seam, I lifted up the muslin cut edge and put a piece of Steam-A-Seam between the muslin and the wool, just at the edges of the muslin. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">The Steam-A-Seam, even unpressed, is slightly sticky and it kept the muslin and wool together sufficiently that I could go ahead and cut around the muslin pieces. Then I picked up each piece (carefully), and place it on my ironing board, removed the pins, and pressed all the edges so the Steam-A-Seam adhered the muslin and wool together within the seam allowances. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And voila! My pattern pieces were underlined! I realize that all over the world great past master tailors are rolling in their graves, but I don't care. It was utterly awesome. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I can't tell you how this simple idea has opened up my sewing possibilities - without having to handstitch underlining, I'll want to underline <i>everything. </i>I already use Steam-A-Seam for putting in <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/zipper%20tutorial" target="_blank">centered zippers</a> (and I have secretly started using it for invisible zippers too, but I haven't perfected my technique yet), and now I'm wondering: where else can I use this incredible stuff?</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Once the garment pieces had cooled, I machine stitched down the center of my larger darts to keep the layers from shifting while sewing the darts. Then I just proceeded to sew the jacket as usual.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-EmkDMXo8EjgAt9z8J6xXz6aypJ6l-FxOT7XPjVQdaIDPc5jyOHiJL1_JmoJs43fU5UkdgNQRGAB98WL2inqF3KfULAaj3cPIYD3eICw_mua_oWEJsX1Et5iXeruG55aM5KJWi3uKIlCL/s1600/IMG_5279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-EmkDMXo8EjgAt9z8J6xXz6aypJ6l-FxOT7XPjVQdaIDPc5jyOHiJL1_JmoJs43fU5UkdgNQRGAB98WL2inqF3KfULAaj3cPIYD3eICw_mua_oWEJsX1Et5iXeruG55aM5KJWi3uKIlCL/s1600/IMG_5279.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFzEUnG4j3x_tYjKs0ZNCWWdttWwhZrk3m4_OXWbSLN63q_jTaDYHBasoa85CYKsY0-fv2L0cXJmkvijqOO3xf1ubK4plpjTbqwztMyT5WKQ77jJau3ZszycPqmLyBvOBL3Iq5fNj3NXe_/s1600/IMG_5281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFzEUnG4j3x_tYjKs0ZNCWWdttWwhZrk3m4_OXWbSLN63q_jTaDYHBasoa85CYKsY0-fv2L0cXJmkvijqOO3xf1ubK4plpjTbqwztMyT5WKQ77jJau3ZszycPqmLyBvOBL3Iq5fNj3NXe_/s1600/IMG_5281.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /> <span style="font-size: large;">This wool is such a joy to work with. It sews well, it presses beautifully. I am getting spoiled by working with such a high quality fabric. No wonder sewers become hooked on tailoring. Here's a shot of the outside of the front of the jacket. You can see the french dart:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj630V0Gbp_lkKBuHtbkWJPSLQRvJt5gCQuCf_on3HyVqMzgu90mVaJSGWyXSfU7y-AxbUhnCf00mMLQ8B4kMOA45O02E2kRZMduoqG9OUMMxkNr76WkRgYcx9SbFmUk3-5xekMip3VRK9F/s1600/IMG_5282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj630V0Gbp_lkKBuHtbkWJPSLQRvJt5gCQuCf_on3HyVqMzgu90mVaJSGWyXSfU7y-AxbUhnCf00mMLQ8B4kMOA45O02E2kRZMduoqG9OUMMxkNr76WkRgYcx9SbFmUk3-5xekMip3VRK9F/s1600/IMG_5282.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I continued to look for a way to mark wool, though, and searched high and low for clay tailor's chalk, which will adhere better to wool than just regular chalk. I finally found this from <a href="http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm/pid/7766/Assorted-Clay-Tailors-Chalk/" target="_blank">Wawak</a>, 36 pieces for $ 8.45 in assorted colors. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJePzM9LGPfecOJwjSlsiLwI95ioQ3y5Umm7HtDIeRpKo2J03l24XZgaRFTykTDvF5sDAFAy4TsujUMF9219Ht5pDbLq1bfxqXGJUk6r-FmG78rbOLHH2WBMUQGbMJp68eu5OO4c01ZLC/s1600/IMG_5277.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeJePzM9LGPfecOJwjSlsiLwI95ioQ3y5Umm7HtDIeRpKo2J03l24XZgaRFTykTDvF5sDAFAy4TsujUMF9219Ht5pDbLq1bfxqXGJUk6r-FmG78rbOLHH2WBMUQGbMJp68eu5OO4c01ZLC/s1600/IMG_5277.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I knew I would need this for marking the sleeves, and for marking the dress pattern pieces which I will not be underlining. The pieces came packed in what looked like sawdust:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPAAXI-9UOA1TEWrV3_Ul9lU3wgpF4tOd_4LMex9KyKHOd8i6mPi92BJq5khxXz9eazojtqn_ljqY_j1w_nAPs165XPJWfBRWaJBenxnMHUYbdVuzRqrfcjDjdhZ0J06wBfBcOqBL8wgHE/s1600/IMG_5278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPAAXI-9UOA1TEWrV3_Ul9lU3wgpF4tOd_4LMex9KyKHOd8i6mPi92BJq5khxXz9eazojtqn_ljqY_j1w_nAPs165XPJWfBRWaJBenxnMHUYbdVuzRqrfcjDjdhZ0J06wBfBcOqBL8wgHE/s1600/IMG_5278.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I used the yellow marker today on the sleeves which have a dart at the elbow, and it worked like a charm! I can't recommend this product highly enough - I ordered it on Monday and it arrived on Tuesday! So basically, I'm set for life on clay tailor's chalk.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Tomorrow I hope to finish getting those sleeves set in, cut out and sew the pockets, and figure out how to draft the front lining piece. But it is coming along nicely. : )</span></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-70833409495578161772014-01-05T16:47:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.562-08:00Tippi Hedren Suit - Butterick 2178 & A Confession<span style="font-size: large;">I have to apologize; you know that deep freeze the eastern part of the US experienced this weekend? The one that left everyone snowed in, stranded at the airport, and living in below zero temperatures? It's my fault. Yep, I did it. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I made a muslin this weekend. Which caused the eastern US, and hell, to freeze over. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I know, I should have seen it coming and warned all of humanity. But I was too excited about proceeding with my Tippi Hedren suit based on her costume she wore in the film, "The Birds", which I got to see <i><a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2013/11/hollywood-comes-to-town-coat-update.html" target="_blank">in person</a> </i>at the Hollywood Costume exhibit at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I've been obsessed with it for months. Before I left on vacation, I bought Butterick 2178 on etsy.com because the jacket closely resembles Edith Head's creation:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFc_JgfdQIf-fTux3MLp7-fnFkjknTXE6WonCaGz0qeWWbvwnaLwmcj_PTuxbrUbhbU8hWa66tYzIaq-w6kRcraeAR3x4nbQbU7GK4YJMWAxaAFJ-0Q_gZG1tJ_Lj0QZP_vk6UO7x86Rt9/s1600/IMG_5243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFc_JgfdQIf-fTux3MLp7-fnFkjknTXE6WonCaGz0qeWWbvwnaLwmcj_PTuxbrUbhbU8hWa66tYzIaq-w6kRcraeAR3x4nbQbU7GK4YJMWAxaAFJ-0Q_gZG1tJ_Lj0QZP_vk6UO7x86Rt9/s1600/IMG_5243.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">And then in <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2013/11/back-from-italy-and-tippi-hedren-suit.html" target="_blank">Rome</a>, I found this gorgeous wool/cashmere blend that I knew I would work beautifully:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicU0JAqHzUzcrgTRPYqifXOEdnqCqhVSfuvYJ3Az_bvg8EWCsF1Xy45xCzC2bpyACqG4K45jrqfQMhNEfiTFw2zaLVuGvaZPoRn3UzLS5CIhgh1SGiJ0oRn5tZX9YBh65ttfMRzBPNFdhD/s1600/IMG_5247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicU0JAqHzUzcrgTRPYqifXOEdnqCqhVSfuvYJ3Az_bvg8EWCsF1Xy45xCzC2bpyACqG4K45jrqfQMhNEfiTFw2zaLVuGvaZPoRn3UzLS5CIhgh1SGiJ0oRn5tZX9YBh65ttfMRzBPNFdhD/s1600/IMG_5247.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> <span style="font-size: large;">This shot shows the color more accurately:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0VHaRx34tWOZnPheBaF6p_4ElImhCFWVRuCyTpZca0rVFATbaY18lKn4AcOHED_Dl3Ya5qMLLIXyhY-e84CfedyYvd2if8m7Y-29pUkAd8sKs3oS1LA9F0dfVvDSJVu-1l6Ayc_4qDTvH/s1600/IMG_5246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0VHaRx34tWOZnPheBaF6p_4ElImhCFWVRuCyTpZca0rVFATbaY18lKn4AcOHED_Dl3Ya5qMLLIXyhY-e84CfedyYvd2if8m7Y-29pUkAd8sKs3oS1LA9F0dfVvDSJVu-1l6Ayc_4qDTvH/s1600/IMG_5246.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">It was 55 euros per meter and I bought three meters. I goggled that and it works out to 3.28 yards of 60 inch fabric for $ 223.54. By my calculations, the cost is $ 68.15 per yard. That's actually not the most I've ever spent on fabric, but it is expensive enough to warrant a muslin. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I wasn't so much concerned about the fit; the pattern is a 34 Bust which usually fits me fine, and this jacket isn't close fitting. What I was more concerned about was understanding the instructions on how to put this thing together. The collar is actually very similar to the Gertie coat, but the instructions are typical 1960s directions; that is, they are limited to one page for the jacket, the skirt, and the blouse:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQsR500kSbf-lC6_IgXtJz-SbcUrgXjDoOVKmWY8jB6Hi_jZvdidIFYCLQT04CwRVO_w5uxooL-5WBF29EoJkCGPn1xht0mR6APKPiipxnQcZkhSvJKCt11g1vGEJ96SmIn4DGVb7AvzoK/s1600/IMG_5274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQsR500kSbf-lC6_IgXtJz-SbcUrgXjDoOVKmWY8jB6Hi_jZvdidIFYCLQT04CwRVO_w5uxooL-5WBF29EoJkCGPn1xht0mR6APKPiipxnQcZkhSvJKCt11g1vGEJ96SmIn4DGVb7AvzoK/s1600/IMG_5274.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">That's it. For the whole outfit. (A far cry from Gertie's extensive sew-along!) Plus, the instructions called for sew-in interfacing which I have no intention of using and I want to make sure I understand the order of construction without it.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I made the muslin out of actual muslin fabric - I have a whole bolt of it. No, I don't know why either, since I never make muslins. I think I got it a Joann's and I must have suffered a seizure that day because I have no other explanation as to why I have an entire bolt of white muslin fabric.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">So here it is:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoE_I7USgg04Cu1uHpxri9BQ6MCAT2SIOlbtw1Ds5ZkSLeQMZAHoC6XIgs6xZ4lrrMtfW2zUEZ8iVlYg0cePwzbaO7PevyZLU5SGYSCq-_L4dgklytMqm3xUwDL15yVwvxw0tWV114_Km0/s1600/IMG_5276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoE_I7USgg04Cu1uHpxri9BQ6MCAT2SIOlbtw1Ds5ZkSLeQMZAHoC6XIgs6xZ4lrrMtfW2zUEZ8iVlYg0cePwzbaO7PevyZLU5SGYSCq-_L4dgklytMqm3xUwDL15yVwvxw0tWV114_Km0/s1600/IMG_5276.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Not very exciting is it? That's why I don't make muslins, because they aren't exciting. But this one actually ended up being very valuable. The instructions for this pattern are pretty blithe about the whole project; one section tells you how to pin the undercollar to the back of the jacket and then tells you to sew "in one operation" the front jacket darts and the undercollar to the back of the jacket. I did not perform this step in "one operation", but in about six, carefully pinning and matching and sewing repeatedly. The collar, like the Gertie coat, has a lot of "Y" seams, as quilters would call them. They are tricky.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I ended up making one sleeve to check the length because the illustration on the envelope depicts the jacket sleeves ending just below the model's elbow. Tippi's suit sleeves are longer than that, I want the longer length:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSg904sjPh5JC6EGu5wAMEJAqIZmuf4yEiA2kI986EOr71NWdUBVHBXIs5mVvJeXOcbHOYeAd7Q5lMOuy6Wa2dsMVWydYYZ2ChCi4K9KtKmAXQQxqiL9gg03kYSdIMzv2YC3EJUAfp74J/s1600/tippi_hedren_the_birds_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSg904sjPh5JC6EGu5wAMEJAqIZmuf4yEiA2kI986EOr71NWdUBVHBXIs5mVvJeXOcbHOYeAd7Q5lMOuy6Wa2dsMVWydYYZ2ChCi4K9KtKmAXQQxqiL9gg03kYSdIMzv2YC3EJUAfp74J/s1600/tippi_hedren_the_birds_13.jpg" height="171" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">My muslin reveals that the sleeve length is actually longer than the pattern illustration shows and I am very happy with it. Here's a photo which shows the suit in a little more detail, although I think the color is off; it is not this olive in real life:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcwL3BLCt87BD0ctEHEgOmcSiBmi3cvHNWSoJhkNryj1BNgm1yhlDYVsFzcRCcLwV4q43D0bbn48mfTN-sktXInaaFsKL_VPdH4YMMnKZ4OQud8cTEQ0Nhanb0N_CsHzXt9Ybutep1tdB/s1600/4510008395_01a7a06935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcwL3BLCt87BD0ctEHEgOmcSiBmi3cvHNWSoJhkNryj1BNgm1yhlDYVsFzcRCcLwV4q43D0bbn48mfTN-sktXInaaFsKL_VPdH4YMMnKZ4OQud8cTEQ0Nhanb0N_CsHzXt9Ybutep1tdB/s1600/4510008395_01a7a06935.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div> <span style="font-size: large;">You can see that the collar isn't exactly like my pattern, but I like the pattern's collar better, so I'm going with it. Also, you can see the sleeves have small one inch or 1.5 inch cuffs. I like them, and I'll add them to my suit jacket. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">And Tippi's suit has patch pockets that go all the way to the hem of the jacket, which I've never seen before. The pattern only has pocket flaps (but no pockets). I like the patch pockets, so I'll add them as well to my version.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Finally, the pattern has no pattern pieces for a lining. Tippi's costume was lined - I saw a photo of her running during the film, and the jacket was definitely lined, although it is a bit hard to tell because the designer Edith Head managed to find lining the exact same color as the suit.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">My fabric is so beautiful and soft, it can slip through the proverbial ring. Any jacket made with it deserves a lining. So I'll have to draft a lining pattern, which I have never done before. Based on my experience with the Gertie coat, I know I need to not use the back collar facing pattern piece and use the back pattern piece for my back lining, but add a one inch pleat in the back for ease. I'm not completely certain how to make the front lining piece, but I'll review the pattern pieces of the Gertie coat to see how she did it. I think I can figure it out. </span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">A couple of more facts about this costume; Edith Head is said to have designed it, but Edith Head's name was attached to a lot of films (especially Hitchcock's films), and there is no guarantee that she actually designed it. It is possible that someone working on the costumes for the film did it. Six of these suits were made for the film; necessary since there is the whole scene where Tippi Hedren is attacked by the birds and her suit is torn and bloodied.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">I believe I will have enough fabric for a dress to go with the jacket. The original costume has a sleeveless, high-necked dress with small gathers at the waist. The skirt has a kick-pleat. The photo above doesn't show it, but it was worn with a large belt with a square belt buckle. My plan is make McCall's 5972 dress, a Laura Ashley pattern I've made before:</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hZYKfNfdkgMm3sHZuVqLvgdi9S8H6VxH6PX5dKD9rVBvKsgQmggDcxaAx9DeUBkozzjjaq4Rxkxyu2ERIPcLrtxO9qJepYaeBXWhDRzfd3I5k0rXrvRopgMDiTkISIZKnk9WIvE9JWd7/s1600/IMG_4550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hZYKfNfdkgMm3sHZuVqLvgdi9S8H6VxH6PX5dKD9rVBvKsgQmggDcxaAx9DeUBkozzjjaq4Rxkxyu2ERIPcLrtxO9qJepYaeBXWhDRzfd3I5k0rXrvRopgMDiTkISIZKnk9WIvE9JWd7/s1600/IMG_4550.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIvV1S-q_vvF32p1TDO7eGySu-dmNJk-XbgrV-rSS-mXtMjrMW2tfEKkPUr6WbhfzuNp8O6tTE0LOhzyx7mnYWV9MYqTeaUy25zcEKlS9gl_noJbXt1J3-z5avqKZz5BSkouzx_M_P4PIB/s1600/IMG_4544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIvV1S-q_vvF32p1TDO7eGySu-dmNJk-XbgrV-rSS-mXtMjrMW2tfEKkPUr6WbhfzuNp8O6tTE0LOhzyx7mnYWV9MYqTeaUy25zcEKlS9gl_noJbXt1J3-z5avqKZz5BSkouzx_M_P4PIB/s1600/IMG_4544.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;">I'll make the blue version - the one without the collar. I love the collar, but it shows under sweaters and jackets. At this point, I'm going with this pattern because it only takes 1.25 yards of 60 inch fabric to make it, and my fabric has a twill weave which doesn't lend itself to gathering; I think a smooth waist is the way to go.</span><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">So that is it for now. I started cutting out today, and I need to start drafting those pattern details I'm adding: pockets, cuffs, and a lining!</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2712858373722948065.post-23413804859480635522013-02-14T18:33:00.000-08:002015-01-19T17:58:32.523-08:00Happy Valentine's Day! New Look 6000<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKMgsW6f58O36vEU3VkiGIv2BRPSwfQ69KiJzznshEHKFGjJkeMFAro2Xa3BD44lnnvbWE__YqAS8VbJpFAaLXMqJpoRq3_gBgf6QQzIiNQLEYnop0nssf_6DmpDS5JgWj-6K5g4yE4eQN/s1600/IMG_4664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKMgsW6f58O36vEU3VkiGIv2BRPSwfQ69KiJzznshEHKFGjJkeMFAro2Xa3BD44lnnvbWE__YqAS8VbJpFAaLXMqJpoRq3_gBgf6QQzIiNQLEYnop0nssf_6DmpDS5JgWj-6K5g4yE4eQN/s320/IMG_4664.JPG" height="320" uea="true" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Last night all I had to do was sew the buttons on this dress and I'd have the perfect red Valentines Day Dress. This is a New Look pattern I saw in a Walmart in December and bought on the spot:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9h1x9wI64vALUpSmIdnSmZmhKAS6ZPQgxKGlsbkDIaB51-kQHvRg9MHXkVbvDJ9Gp1SxYKp16ptKD0GRtkEeN8sBJMqmaNtB-STQjj0FjZli7zjAhX8okUpcgvsLbyKrUwqv3TuXBCOt0/s1600/IMG_4671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9h1x9wI64vALUpSmIdnSmZmhKAS6ZPQgxKGlsbkDIaB51-kQHvRg9MHXkVbvDJ9Gp1SxYKp16ptKD0GRtkEeN8sBJMqmaNtB-STQjj0FjZli7zjAhX8okUpcgvsLbyKrUwqv3TuXBCOt0/s320/IMG_4671.JPG" height="320" uea="true" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <span style="font-size: large;">And I knew exactly the fabric I wanted for it. The same fabric I made my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2012/12/a-new-laura-ashley.html" target="_blank">Laura Ashley Dress</a> from Hancock's, but in a solid red color. It took me awhile to get this one done just due to work/wife commitments. The pleats on the left side drew me to the pattern right away.</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRdFrThEJ0HV3uCSKw2Y6nTJlah5Wiyu8FlqEkJxdG4mTzfdIgpi3c8PzYL19HRDbdrtrk9X3H6gxfAJYDqJ5m1-4qNK8QxvT3x1lo9RmKfqXD8vMS_5rZNCWqpcVg-McHpb6rtjC0Zf_e/s1600/IMG_4665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRdFrThEJ0HV3uCSKw2Y6nTJlah5Wiyu8FlqEkJxdG4mTzfdIgpi3c8PzYL19HRDbdrtrk9X3H6gxfAJYDqJ5m1-4qNK8QxvT3x1lo9RmKfqXD8vMS_5rZNCWqpcVg-McHpb6rtjC0Zf_e/s320/IMG_4665.JPG" height="320" uea="true" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">They were easy to do and have great impact. The pattern required a one inch button at the collar and four 5/8 inch buttons for the sleeves. I found them at the expensive fabric store in town:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4agmCS2lQvnhPDZROXxHg7RU8kMqKtQFFuslv5u0knZ9jQnpVSpfa8btb8O9gAOvi1EqGBhy6Mq3ypy9Tvlp24I2gwWddrtYRFr9-ynG9GG3lFMCylMO9YFtt2RiuGhBJ4fy41A3XINpC/s1600/IMG_4674.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4agmCS2lQvnhPDZROXxHg7RU8kMqKtQFFuslv5u0knZ9jQnpVSpfa8btb8O9gAOvi1EqGBhy6Mq3ypy9Tvlp24I2gwWddrtYRFr9-ynG9GG3lFMCylMO9YFtt2RiuGhBJ4fy41A3XINpC/s320/IMG_4674.JPG" height="213" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3V5LCOh32HpiRldJn6eNHAqvEaRC3fgJZZ18e1qcP1AV45w5WPuOHjcA-b99eESBYmHeBGh15oIqrXxNSNPZ4F1QSE9HzpgICku0Kho0mLURzQ5BDx2SeHVVmLrN9sbEpU8tVQnYLsJXY/s1600/IMG_4675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3V5LCOh32HpiRldJn6eNHAqvEaRC3fgJZZ18e1qcP1AV45w5WPuOHjcA-b99eESBYmHeBGh15oIqrXxNSNPZ4F1QSE9HzpgICku0Kho0mLURzQ5BDx2SeHVVmLrN9sbEpU8tVQnYLsJXY/s320/IMG_4675.JPG" height="213" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The other aspect of the pattern that I love is the sleeves. I used to hate putting in sleeves, and I still am not a great fan, but I find myself looking at dress patterns with sleeves. Without them, I'm too cold at work, even in the summer. Well, especially in the summer, given the HVAC overkill in our country. That means I have to wear sweaters with my sleeveless dresses, both summer and winter. And that sort of defeats the purpose of making your own clothes. I don't want to cover up all my hard work with a sweater!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The sleeves actually went in really well. So maybe I'm getting better at them after only 11 years of sewing!</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOZzx5GpC3iD2xaN6UML3eMS-s_NuNibwqGvtE-fuzyRcSvv1RtM4z0rvhGpde0g1t2grGFzzKEgfGGAkGy-f-9xG7mbzpeD8ekgrnEBCNRWvUa6FvgjE6tbyYJ3HA_rNoqGevzSiXAxp/s1600/IMG_4661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOZzx5GpC3iD2xaN6UML3eMS-s_NuNibwqGvtE-fuzyRcSvv1RtM4z0rvhGpde0g1t2grGFzzKEgfGGAkGy-f-9xG7mbzpeD8ekgrnEBCNRWvUa6FvgjE6tbyYJ3HA_rNoqGevzSiXAxp/s320/IMG_4661.JPG" height="320" uea="true" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">My usual photographer is on a cruise (!), so these photos were taken later in the day, and you can see some of the wrinkles, but I still enjoyed wearing this dress.</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1_y-sot4wXAdmF_2kylHeWRFpiL4GzMgrOBMvExCTTwPEjoW-iVpjY8_dm2dzmyi9QQ55TexBq_v-EhZP9pgOiKdPOa5rYveorkm_NIRRlms53TM2jxb6Bd6Xnl5bsk-3LZmY0xRkPXoO/s1600/IMG_4662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1_y-sot4wXAdmF_2kylHeWRFpiL4GzMgrOBMvExCTTwPEjoW-iVpjY8_dm2dzmyi9QQ55TexBq_v-EhZP9pgOiKdPOa5rYveorkm_NIRRlms53TM2jxb6Bd6Xnl5bsk-3LZmY0xRkPXoO/s320/IMG_4662.JPG" height="320" uea="true" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">It's sort of mod-Mad-men; vintage-like, but without the vintage pattern. I made size 12 and sewed it straight up, with no alterations, other than making the hem one inch, rather than 1 1/4 inches, just to have a little extra length.</span> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">This pattern reminded me why I like the "Big Four" patterns. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">1) </span> <span style="font-size: large;">The finished garment measurements are printed on the pattern (independent pattern makers please take note);</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">2) I know what size works for me and what the usual ease is on these patterns, so no muslins;</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">3) They are cheap, especially during a $ 1.99 sale (or less), so no tracing for me - if another size is necessary, I just buy another pattern (my time is worth more than the $ 1.99!).</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The dress is Carpenter-approved, and he told me that my dress looked "just like the pattern picture". He's kind and I love him.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><strong>Parting Shot: </strong>Flowers for Valentines. I know they are cliche, but I love flowers this time of year. I'm tired of winter and we are months away from seeing flowers in the yard yet, so they are a welcome sight:</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6xhVuCcxrPE02xKt0nxgFpqvSplzehbTIcOPXxGE3bqWFXmSPv00sq31mSgWdSNaaD9QF9YjJ7NN-JJ6R3YcT3f0t50hZJkPlmUoV0dCyIcQAxnt16oetmm9FPQr0ao7sQcdlYsExBZ1F/s1600/IMG_4667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6xhVuCcxrPE02xKt0nxgFpqvSplzehbTIcOPXxGE3bqWFXmSPv00sq31mSgWdSNaaD9QF9YjJ7NN-JJ6R3YcT3f0t50hZJkPlmUoV0dCyIcQAxnt16oetmm9FPQr0ao7sQcdlYsExBZ1F/s320/IMG_4667.JPG" height="213" uea="true" width="320" /></a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00392471300909390708noreply@blogger.com